Washing mechine samsung water can not drain model wa12v5
Check the drain hose for kinks or other obstructions.
Caution: the following steps require removal of all or part of the cabinet. There will be high voltages and moving parts present when the machine is running. Keep well clear of moving parts, and do not wear loose-sleeved clothing. Do not touch electrical terminals during operation. Avoid putting your hands or test leads into the bottom section of the machine unless it is unplugged.
Check the drain pump. If it is belt driven, verify that the belt is turning the pump. If it has electrical terminals, inspect them for corrosion or signs that the connection has been overheating (insulation burned brown or black, possibly made brittle or even falling off of the wire). If there is a problem here, clean up any corrosion. If necessary, cut off the damaged wire terminals and crimp on new ones of the same type. (The male terminals on the pump motor are not replaceable, but they can usually be polished.) Overheated terminals without corrosion, together with signs of overheating on the pump motor indicate that the pump or motor is stuck.
If you can see the pump motor armature (open frame shaded pole motor) watch to see if it is spinning during the spin/drain cycle. If it is not, or turns slowly and erratically, unplug the machine and try turning the motor by hand (remove any accumulated dirt or grime from the bearings first). If it is sticky, apply a few drops of very light oil to the motor bearings; wipe off any excess. If it turns freely by hand, but does not turn during the spin/drain cycle, proceed to the timer checks below. If the pump turns, go to the hose check after the next paragraph.
If the motor is sealed inside the pump case, the preceding paragraph does not apply. Plug in the machine, set to spin/drain, and look over the area around the pump. Is there clearance to safely put your hand on it without getting too close to the tub belt or other moving parts? If you can, feel for vibration indicating coming from inside the pump. If there is none, proceed to the timer check. If vibration is present, either the pump is stuck or clogged, or there is a clog in the hoses.
Hose check: unplug the machine. Remove as much water as you can from the tub. Put a drain pan under the pump, and remove the inlet hose from the pump (be sure you have a bucket and something to bail out the drain pan on hand!) Look for any clogs in the hose or pump inlet, and remove them if present. If very little water comes out of the hose even though there is still some water in the bottom of the tub, the tub outlet is clogged, so you'll have to clear the other end of the hose. (In severe cases, there may be a layer of sludge between the inner tub and the outer tub. In that case, put the hose back on the pump, get a bottle of CLR brand cleaner or equivalent and follow the directions for cleaning out a washing machine.) If it appears you have the hose cleared, you can test your work by putting the pump end into the (emptied!) drain pan and pouring about half a gallon of water into the machine. It should run freely into the drain pan. If there are no signs of blockage on the inlet hose, check the outlet hose. If necessary, disconnect the hose from the pump and put it into the drain pan, then remove the hose from the house drain pipe. Lift the drain pipe end above the height of the machine, and pour water into it while having someone observe whether any water goes into the drain pan inside the machine. If you can fill the hose to overflowing with little if any going into the drain pan, you have a lint clog in the outlet hose.
Timer check: If everything looks good mechanically and there are no clogs, but the machine still doesn't drain, it's time to check the timer. The quickest test is to use an electrician's electric field voltage detector (an electronic gadget that beeps or flashes a light when brought near a wire connected to an AC source). Set the machine to spin/drain, turn it on, and bring the detector near the wires going to the drain pump. If there is no voltage detected, the problem is most likely at the timer. If there is voltage detected, and the preceding steps have been taken, the pump is bad.
If you don't have this tool, but do have a voltmeter, measure the voltage directly at the timer (this is safer than having test leads near the moving machinery in the bottom of the washer). Unplug the machine and open the timer cover. Identify the pump wires at the timer. One will probably be white (neutral) and the other will have the same color coding as the hot wire going to the pump (there may be a colored stripe on the wire in addition to the main color). Set the voltmeter to read 200 Ohms resistance, then carefully insert one of the test leads into the pocket of the timer connector with the pump wire in it. Find a neutral wire connection (solid white wire) and connect the other lead to it. You should read something under 100 Ohms - the pump motor winding resistance. If you get an open circuit reading, repeat the measurement directly at the pump motor terminals. If it is still open, the motor winding is bad. If you can measure the motor resistance at the motor but not the timer, check your wiring connections (sometimes it is difficult to make contact with the terminal inside the timer connector pocket, or you may have the wrong wire). Once you are sure you have the right connections first set the meter to read at least 200 VAC, then connect it to the pump wires at the timer. Plug in the machine and set it to spin/drain and turn it on. If you get no voltage or a low and erratic voltage, the timer's pump contacts may be bad. If you get a solid voltage reading and the pump doesn't run, the pump is bad.
Nov 16, 2016 |
Samsung Washing Machines