Question about Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

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My non-starting dryer

Thank you so much for your willingness to help me with this.

My dryer is a Kenmore 66912 Electric, 90 Series. Not the model that my original question was asked under.

I read the link about dryers that you sent me and started getting taking apart the dryer. Since my dryer doesn't run at all I went to that list of suspected components and noted the following:

1. Thermal fuse: Since the drum light does work on my dryer I skipped this.

2. Drum belt: Seems fine upon inspection. I can smoothly rotate the drum manually.

3. Door switch: When I push the switch in the drum light turns off and the timer begins clicking.

4. Start switch: When timer is running and door is shut I push the start button and hear a single click then nothing from anywhere.

5. Timer: Clicks like its working properly.

6. Drive motor: I checked the white connector plug and it was firmly in place. All wires and circuitboards look okay, nothing's fried-looking.

7. A/C Receptacle: Measured 243V between two outer wires and 120V between the other two combinations.

Do you think that the motor is bad? The dryer was working perfect then wouldn't start at all the next time. There were no smells or sounds or anything.

If the motor is bad is it something that is worth trying to do myself?

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  • 2 more comments 
  • mlyttge Jun 01, 2008

    Okay, I checked the connector and the wires; nothing looks burned. The resistance across the blue and violet wires is 2.0 ohms. Since this is lower than 2.4 could that be the problem?



    The Model/Stock No. is 66912690. Do you have any further recommendations?

  • mlyttge Jun 03, 2008

    I'm sorry, I forgot to write that I checked the thermal fuse and it is good. Are the belt switch and centrifugal switch difficult to check?

  • mlyttge Jun 09, 2008

    Thanks for your help. My mom gave me her old dryer and I gave my broken one to a neighbor who thinks he can get it running. I really appreciate your help on this. It has been eduational.

  • Anonymous Dec 17, 2008

    kenmore 66912692- everything seems to be in working order except it's not running! timer is clicking, light in drum is on, start button clicks when i push it but nothing starts up. worked perfect one load, nothing the next

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  • 5,911 Answers

Make sure you perform all checks with the dryer UNPLUGGED.

Double check the thermal fuse just to be sure. It will be located on the air blower housing and should be a white plastic component with two wires connected to it. It should read a short if good. I could be mistaken, but I believe the drum light will still come on with the thermal fuse blown. If I led you astray in my write up, I do apologize. All dryers are not configured the same.

If the thermal fuse is good, pull the connector from the drive motor and inspect it. I have found where these connectors look like they are tight, but actually aren't, causing the connector and wires to burn. If the connector checks good, you have a couple of options. You could have a defective motor. Take a resistance check across the blue wire and violet wire on the motor. This should be your start winding. Resistance should be between 2.4 to 3.8 ohms. If it reads anything higher than 4 ohms, it's recommended that you replace it. If the motor is okay you may have a defective belt switch and/or centrifugal switch. I'm not sure how your dryer is configured. I will need the COMPLETE model number (located around the door opening) to be sure.

Before I can give you further advice about troubleshooting or replacing parts, I need to be sure of what you find. Please post back and let me know.

Posted on May 29, 2008

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jun 01, 2008

    Did you double check the thermal fuse like I suggested? I mentioned in my last posting that, depending on how your dryer is configured, the drum light MAY actually light with the thermal fuse blown. The 2 ohms reading to me suggests that your start motor winding is good.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jun 03, 2008

    Okay...try this. Go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number (make sure you include the first three digits "110"). I need you to look at the drawing under the "Cabinet" heading. Locate and take a look at item number 5 (Broken belt switch). Make sure item 39 (Idler Bracket) has item number 10 (Idler Spring) attached and you can hear the switch clicking as you move the idler up and down. Double check items 6 (Broken Belt Switch Jumper) and, 16 (Belt Switch Wire) to ensure they are intact and have proper continuity. I do not see an external centrifugal switch listed. You should have a wiring diagram inside the operator console that may make reference to it. This may be internal to the motor and cannot be replaced as a single unit. Which means, you may have to purchase the entire motor if this is the case. Sorry to take so long trying to wrap this up for you, but I'm trying to avoid you having to purchase a part you may not need. If the switch is working, locate the primary voltage input to the motor to ensure you are getting the proper voltage applied to the motor. Make sure you have the dryer door closed when doing this. If you have proper primary voltage, and the belt switch and linkage is good, then I would make the assumption of a bad motor. You need to rule out all possibilities, though. Let me know what you find. I'll be waiting to hear back from you.

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