Question about Husqvarna 22HP VTwin Hydrostatic 42" Cut Riding Mower

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I have the Husq 54" cut LGT2554, it will start and run just fine for about 40-45 minutes and then it starts to cut out and eventually dies. Once it cools back off if will start just fine and the same thing happens. I sprayed some carb cleaner in it and that didn't help. I had this problem before and took it to a dealer and they said it was bad fuel, so they cleaned out the system. I changed gas stations just in case, but I still have the same problem. Any idea?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

picatudo
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SOURCE: Chainsaw is extremely hard to start and won't stay running.

adjust the two little screws on the carburator

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

mikeymiddles
  • 58 Answers

SOURCE: Husqvarna 350 wont stay running?

ok,  The choke is used to change the air/fuel mixture by "choking" off the air that goes to the carburator.  The choke is only used to get the motor running in cold temperatures.  Once the motor is started, the choke must be opened or the motor will flood and stall when you open the throttle.    I hope this solves your problem.  Best wishes, Michael Mittelsdorf 

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

steve_lima
  • 181 Answers

SOURCE: Husqvarna chain saw starts and runs for 20 minutes then stops.

two things could be happening.......first is vapor lock......make sure you breather tube is clear and working........next is ....it could have a bad ignition coil on it.....after the coil gets hot the spark can become irratic or just not work any more.....

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: mower wont stay running

Hello nater357:

>>From your Description it Sounds like a Bad Carburetor Solenoid, Restricted Carburetor Passages or a Stuck Carburetor Float Needle Valve.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for Checking the Carburetor Solenoid. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Check for Current/Voltage (10.5 VDC Minimum) to the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid. If the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid has Current, then On Some Solenoids you can Remove the Needle and Replace the Solenoid to Test them.
>>****PLEASE DO NOT OPERATE THE MOWER WITH THE SOLENOID BYPASSED IN THIS MANNER. THIS IS "ONLY" FOR TESTING.****
>>For Others, Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" Long for the Horizontal Mount Solenoids and 1/4" to 1/2" Long for the Vertical Mount Solenoids. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid.
>>***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES***
>>Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jet Properly.** **Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. There is Some Slop/Free Play in the Solenoid Pin. Usually the Electromagnet is Simply Not Pulling the Pin as it Should or there is a Small Bur on the Pin. Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. Clean and Lightly Oil the Pin before Inserting it Back into the Solenoid. Just a Film of Oil is All it Takes.**
>>If the Carburetor Solenoid is Good, then
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 15, 2009

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: Husqvarna z5426 running rich and fouling plugs

Sounds like a fouled needle seat, or the float bowl is failing.

Start with:

Pulling your Carb, and cleaning it out. COMPLETELY.
A ton of people think "a shot of carb cleaner, and a gasket kit" is a carb fix. It is NOT, and WILL NOT fix a carb, if the problem isn't gaskets, and shots of cleaner!

Meaning, if she is running too rich, then too much fuel (as you said), and fouling plugs, remember there are only a VERY few things in the carb anyway as it is.

1. Needle Seat
2. Fuel Float Bowl
3. Butterflies
4. Fuel Ports
5. Air Ports
6. Gaskets/Diaphragms.

My advice: (This assumes you HAVE NOT ADJUSTED YOUR CARB OUT OF DEFAULT!)

Pull the carb (Carefully!) and tear it COMPLETELY down (Carefully!). Note where stuff went, take your time, be patient.

When you have everything but the butterfly plates out, run some Gum-Out through each and every port, after you made sure to pull the Float Bowl, and the Needle Valve (and remembered how they went back in there!). Take some compressed air, and follow through (CAREFULLY!) on each and every port. Clean the very TIP of the Needle Valve. Shake your plastic Float Bowl. Does it have liquid inside? She has a hole in her. REPLACE!

If not, then this exercise was cleaning crud/residue that is ALWAYS building up inside carbs in 2/4-stroke engines world wide, every day. NOW do a "carb gasket rebuild".

Note: Remember that sometimes, crud/junk is testy, and stubborn as a mule to get out. Double check any screens above/below your Needle Seat and Valve. Remember that Needle Valves come with solid tips, and some with rubber tips. Regardless, be careful, and clean thoroughly! A Needle Seat that isn't getting closed, is a Needle Valve that is letting WAY too much fuel in!

Posted on May 30, 2009

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