Question about Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

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A/C NOT COOLING

The condenser suction line did not give any reading on the gauge and the liquid line gave 65 psi after few minutes the liquid line rose to the maximum. I inspected the line and there are no bends on the line .

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  • CAIFAS Jun 04, 2008

    The refrigerant is R-22 for a new unit and should be between 65 to 70 psi. But I think the blower does not have enough power and the coil gets froze. Do you think this is possible?

  • burzerko
    burzerko May 11, 2010

    what do you mean the maximum what type of refrigirant is in the unit and what pressure are you calling the maximum.

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Sounds to me like your orfice in the A coil is plugged

Posted on Jul 24, 2008

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I am thinking more along the lines that you have a restriction somewhere in the condenser sheet coil, or the condenser line coming from the compressor. If you have no suction pressure this would explain a restriction.

Posted on Jun 04, 2008

  • burzerko
    burzerko Jun 04, 2008

    I would check filters if you have them installed.



    On a side note the pressure of refrigerants change due to the increase and decrease in temperature. So depending on the temperature would determine the pressure of the refrigirant.

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1 Answer

65 PSI TO 70 PSI IS THE SAME SUCTION PRESSURE FOR ALL TON SPLIT AC OR THERE IS DIFFERENT SUCTION PRESSURE IN ON CONDITION?


Your suction pressure will always vary depending on many variables. What type of freon??? If you find your freon type on a PT CHART(PRESSURE/TEMPERATURE), 65-70 psig will have a temp that is 38-41°f. Most evap coils should be a bit warmer but not much. BUT, again variables! Coils are clean, indoor temp, blower speed, return air opening, supply ducts. Also superheat should be a factor. If you have 65-70psig, that freon temp(per pt chart r22) is 38-41°f, then using a temp sensor/meter to measure the actual temp of the suction line. Subtract 38-41 from the actual temp and that give us a superheat reading. This # should be around 8-12°. But again variables! If the unit has an expansion valve? Seems like you are close if its r22.

Aug 05, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How do I replace a outside central air conditioner


First you need to determine if it is a heat pump or straight cool condenser. The reason is the low voltage wiring is different. This is the correct way to install an outside unit.
1.Pad must be level and unit should be secured to withstand 140 mile uplift wind with tie down straps.
2. Make sure breaker size does not exceed max per data sticker on unit. The electrical whip should also be correct wiring size for breaker AMPS.
3. Remove the shard er core valve to prevent damage to it, protect king valve with wet cloth or thermal trap paste to avoid damage. Connect the liquid line small cooper pipe to unit by brazing. Then run through gauges Nitrogen at low psi to prevent shoot build up in line set, now start brazing the suction line large cooper pipe, once finished help cool with water cloth.Check visually for any missed spots and re braze. Once you are comfortable that braze is a good seal now it it pressure test time.
4. (The above procedure is assuming that the inside unit has already been installed correctly, including the line set to unit.)
Through gauges connect Nitrogen compressed gas tank and increase psi in the line set to 350 psi and let stand ten minutes. If pressure is still 350 on both gauges you have a good seal, release the nitrogen into the air and remove tank from hose. Once gauges read 0 psi on both sides high and low you can start the vacuum process. These pressures can differ per refrigerant ( R410A example).
5. Hook up the Vacuum pump to the middle hose from gauges making sure you have replaced the shard er core valve back into the ports.tighten all hoses to any connection on machine, gauges, and pump open gauges and turn on pump allow to run at lest 20 minutes or until you reach 100 microns in a vacuum.Shut, close gauges and shut off pump remove the hose from pump.connect this hose to refrigerant tank and purge to center hose at gauges ( minus) amount of purge.
6. Now you can open the king valve and let refrigerant flow out of the condenser into the line set and air handler otherwise you have to add the refrigerant, newer refrigerant has to be charged into unit in the liquid state not gas state. R410A older refrigerant can be charged in gas state R22.
7. Hook up electrical,breaker off check with volt meter, follow diagram on unit. Then hook up low voltage, for straight cool depends on t-stat and unit witch colors they use follow schematics. I have found that Goodman use blue as common and yellow for cool, make sure that the same colors are used in the air handler to provide the 24 volts to outside contact coil.
If this seams difficult, well it is unless you have the correct training incorrectly done can cause damage to unit and to personal health ..
8. Or call a professional HVAC tech.

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Sep 20, 2014 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Goodman unit runs and at the a-coil there is a piston where your suction and liquid lines connect. On the liquid side the piston is cold but warm on the other side of piston. A/C unit will not cool.


That piston is the metering device. On the liquid line, before the metering device it is always warm (this is sub cooled, high pressure liquid), but should flash to low pressure, lower temperature vapor once it passes through the metering device. The suction and liquid line never connect together.The liquid line brings liquid from the condenser to the evaporator. The suction line brings super heated vapor from the evaporator to the compressor. Since the unit does run, I'd have to put a gauge on it,but if I had to guess, I'd guess you have high head pressure. Check for dirt or debris on the condenser, check for proper clearance of the condensing unit and check for operation and directional rotation of the condenser fan. This could also be the result of an over charge.

Aug 26, 2013 | Goodman CKL36AR36 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Conair mini split heat pump isn't cooling but has cold suction line but warm liquid line and is not freezing up the evaporator. Thinking a sucking reversing valve?? What could cause that? Both evapor


Make sure that your refrigerant charge is good first. Reversing valve has 4 pipes coming off of it. The one alone is discharge and centre of 3 is suction always. The two sides are the reversing pipes. One side should be same temp as discharge and other same temp (+-5F) as suction. If not then you have bypassing refrigerant in valve. Bad.

Jul 13, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Hoi... We have a Condura split aircon of 1.5 hp. 12.000 Kj/hr -R22 The in- and outset unit needs cleaning and has to be disconnected from each other. Here's my question: After connecting again and...


Hi Frans! I'm Roger. I have never had to disconnect the Evaporator from the Condenser to clean them but here is your answer. Use the access valves on the liquid side of the condenser. After evacuating, let the vacuum pull liquid R22 into the liquid line access valve to about 80 gauge pounds and close your refrigerant port on the manifold. Start the unit and add GAS to the suction port to bring your pressure up. If you have a scroll type compressor you can add liquid to the suction port but add gas just to be safe. Exactly how much you add depends on the efficiency of the compressor and how cold you want the discharge air to be. Normally we shoot for 34 to 40 degree evaporator with 18 to 25 degree temperature drop across the coil. R22 at 34 degrees is 60.2 PSI (Pounds per square inch) on your compound gauge. That's normally blue and on the left side of the manifold. The gauge that's hooked to the suction line. 40 degrees is 68.6 PSI. The amount it will take depends on the size of the condenser and length of your line set. Watch the amp draw on the compressor while charging. The name tag will have an RLA or FLA number that is the normal operating amperage of the unit. Add gas on till the suction line is cold at the compressor, then wait 5 or 10 minutes for the system to stabilize. Adjust you pressure again and you should be done. Let me know if you need anything else and if so, be as specific as possible. Roger

Apr 20, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Hi, I need to relocate the split air conditioner, but I don't know the first step and next steps. Thank you,


If you are not a service technician you probably won't have the tools you will need to accomplish the move. Here is what it takes, step bye step. 1. Pull the fuses or turn off the electrical breaker in the house. 2. Hook up a gauge manifold to the Condensing unit ports for the liquid and suction lines. 3. Hook up a Refrigerant recovery machine to the manifold. 4. Recover the refrigerant into recovery tanks down to a trace, no vacuum. 5. Disconnect the electrical whip and control wiring from the condenser. 6. Close off the service valves on the liquid and suction lines at the condenser. 7. Slowly unscrew the copper line connections to the condensing unit to relieve any pressure that may exist from Refrigerant boiling out of the oil in the compressor and quickly cap them. 8. Move the unit to your new, firm and level location. 9. Remove the old electrical disconnect and whip and move it to the condenser. 10. Buy a new line set of the proper length or extend the old one with Refrigeration copper and couplings preserving the condenser couplings. 11. Replace the liquid line drier and reconnect the copper lines to the condensing unit. Replace the "O" Rings if needed to insure a good seal. 12. Hook up a vacuum pump to your gauge manifold. 13. Open the isolation valves on the condenser. Depending on the oil type in the system, evacuate to 250 Microns. 13. Charge system with 50 pounds of Nitrogen and a little Refrigerant for a trace test. 14. Watch your gauges for a drop in pressure indicating a leak. 15. Check all fittings and any splices with a good Halogen gas detector. 16. Evacuate the system again to the point of vaporization of the oil in the compressor being careful not to boil it off. 17. Close off all ports on your manifold and install a small drier to your Refrigerant line. 18. Re-install the recovered Refrigerant, running it through the small drier on your manifold. 19. Re-check for leaks. 20. Install the electrical whip on the contacter and the control wires on the contacter coil. 21.Start the AC and check the running amps against the name plate Full Load Amps (FLA) or Regular Load Amps (RLA) and check the Refrigerant charge against the units chart. Either in your owners manual or glued to the electrical access cover.
Method 2 = Instead of recovering the refrigerant, you can pump it into the condensing unit. With your gauge manifold tied in, close the liquid line isolation valve. Run the compressor till the compound gauge reads 1 pound and close the suction line isolation valve. Doing it this way will eliminate the need for the recovery machine and heavy tanks. All else remains the same.
Special tools needed = Compound gauge (meaning it reads both pressure and vacuum). High pressure gauge, gauge manifold and at least 3 hoses, a vacuum pump, leak detector (or soap bubbles) and an amp probe. Please rate this response. Thanks for asking!

Apr 01, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

When i was fixed a problem in central ac trane i found decreased in freon r22 and the suctione line was freezed, i charged the ac with froen gas r 22 then i found that the suctione line changed and begin...


You are still low on freon. Charging AC by superheat and subcool
First charging a unit by superheat, this is only for Acs with an orifice or capillary tube.
Optimum superheat is 12° to 15° at the compressor or suction line outside the unit.
Hook up your gages and put a thermometer on suction line (large line), start the AC. Measure the temperature of the suction line and read the pressure on your gages. Theres a temperature scale on your gages for R-22 or R-410A the needle will show you the pressure on the outer scale and if you follow it down to the R-22 or R-410a inner scale that is the saturation temperature for that refrigerant, (you can also use a temperature pressure chart), now read the thermometer, let’s say the suction temperature( the thermometer) is 67° and the saturation temperature (the gages or temp. press. Chart), is 55°, subtract the saturation temperature from the suction temperature, 67°- 55° = 12° superheat.
Charging by Subcooling, this is for Acs with a thermostatic expansion valve, it’s common to see a sight glass on the liquid line (on these units with a sight glass just clear it, when, indoor room is at approximate set point of the thermostat). Optimum sub cooling is 12° to 15° at the outdoor unit.
Hook up your gages and put a thermometer on liquid line (small line), start the AC. Measure the temperature of the liquid line and read the pressure on your gages. Theres a temperature scale on your gages for R-22 or R-410A the needle will show you the pressure on the outer scale and if you follow it down to the R-22 or R-410a inner scale that is the saturation temperature for that refrigerant,(you can also use a temperature pressure chart), now read the thermometer, let’s say the liquid temperature( the thermometer) is 100° and the saturation temperature (the gages or temp. press. Chart), is 114°, subtract the liquid temperature from the saturation temperature, 114°- 100° = 14° subcool.

Oct 05, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Samsung side by side mod#rs2454sh The coils inside freeze and ice builds up and in abut 2-3 months there is about 1-2 inches of ice build up.to a point where the frig is not cold enough. I havr to take the...


1. First check if your door rubbers seals properly. if not, try and adjust yor doors so that they seal properly.what happens sometimes is that moisture leaks into your fridge.
2. It is also possible that your unit is overgased. you can buy yourself a valve that can be screwed onto the suction pipe line to your compressor. at the back of your fridge you will find a condenser unit that is directly connected to your compressor. that is called the discharge line and you will notice that the discharge line is thinner than the suction line to your compressor. get yourself a set of fridge gauges that you will connect to your valve that you just connected to your suction line. check your psi reading of your suction line under normal running conditions. to get a compartment temperature of minus 18deg celcius your psi reading depending on gas your fridge is charged with should be more or less 4,5 psi. if you have ice build up at the back of your fridge on your suction line your unit is overgased. if your reading on your guage reads less than zero psi then your unit is undergassed. good luck.

Sep 06, 2009 | Samsung Refrigerators

2 Answers

Discharge pressure reading 150 psi and suction reading 70 psi what could cause this problem on a heat pump? this is a r22 system


need to know the room temp and out side temp but the expansion valve could be sticking open or the compressor could have bad valves hook up hi side hose to true high side port and shut the liquid valve off in the line set in cooling mode make call for unit to come on and as it pumps down the hi side should go up if not the comp is week but if room temp is 85 or higher and out side about same still low on charge the suction will fall when room cools and the expansion valve quits flooding the coil

May 10, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

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