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Have a wirlpool ghw9460pl0...just replacedthe door latch assebly and microprocesser and i am still getting the f 11. is there an easy fix?

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Try the tech sheet for code description remove bottom panel look on right side under machine..never can remember all these new codes but if you have already replaced main control tech sheet may send you in right direction

Posted on May 29, 2008

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Whats the problem when the code f22 come up on my wirlpool front loader washer

F22 indicates a door latch failure or interconnecting wiring problem.

Search the problem on the answer is already on here. The easy way to find answers for every product question Just Ask

Jun 10, 2015 | Washing Machines



On Whirlpool duets, and the Kenmore HE series starting with the HE3 - HE5.
A common misdiagnosis is to replace the door latch when the user gets an F-DL error, or an F-11 & F-DL intermittently. If the machine shows an F-DL, and you hear a distinct clicking as the board attempts to latch the door just prior to the code appearing, the most common problem here is the door lock relay on the CCU. A good way to confirm is: after pressing start, while the CCU is attemting to latch the door, with the top cover removed, gently tap the top of the CCU with a screwdriver handle (or any blunt object) this will often free the relay. I've seen MANY door latches put in, only to replace the CCU a few days later.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Washing Machines

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The door latch broke. Where can I get a replacement and can I replace it myself or do I need a service person? It seems pretty easy to fix, but I just want to be sure. Thank you.

Very easy to replace. go to appliance parts store and get a new latch to see how it installs. Make sure the latch is turned to match ea other.


If this was helpful please rate me.
Leo Ponder Appliance-Tyler,Texas

Sep 01, 2010 | Washing Machines

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Washer will not start. Getting "dr" message . Door lock light is not lit. Tried cancel and restart tried unplug and restart still getting dr message

The 'dr' error code stands for 'door switch is not closed'. If the door is closed properly, then you will have to replace the door switch assebly.

Hope this helps!

Jun 25, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Have had F DL code and now F 11 code? I know FDL

"F11" is a Serial Communications error code. This means there is a loss of communications between the Central Control Unit (CCU), Motor Control Unit (MCU), and/or controls. The following link explains:

If you are receiving BOTH error codes, this means the CCU is not communicating properly with the door latch mechanism. This can be an indication of a broken door latch, failed CCU, or interconnecting wiring between the two. The CCU has a small relay on the board that controls the door latch. These boards are not serviceable, and if defective, must be replaced.

I would recommend you try these procedures first:

1. Remove the top panel of the washer by locating and removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then lift off.

2. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub. Trace the wires that lead from the door latch mechanism. In the area where the door latch connector plug is connected to the CCU, tap the CCU with a screwdriver. Sometimes the relay on the board sticks and the latch will not lock.

3. If the door latch still fails to lock, UNPLUG the washer and disconnect the door latch connector plug from the CCU and reseat it. Do that same thing on the door latch. Sometimes the connectors become corroded and reseating them can restore connectivity.

4. If you still have problems perform a continuity check of the wires that lead from the door latch to the CCU.

If the error code(s) still persist, most commonly this is a CCU failure. Since the control board cannot communicate with the door latch, both errors will be generated.

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

Prices vary between these sites, so shop and compare.

If you have any questions about any of these procedures, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope this help you.

Dec 14, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer


you did the right thing . D L is door latch . // it may not be the latch but the mount / re ck the mounting make sure no wires are bare or borken . contacts are tight. ect .. i would remove it and ck wiring and reinstall . . mm

Dec 03, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

The washer goes for about 2 min. and the reg f 11 and dl i know the dl is for the door lock but how do you fix the door lock and why is this f 11 thing going on

Fdl is a door latch error code. F11 is a serial communications error that is associated with either the door latch, central control unit (main computer) or associated wiring. Since you can hear a "click", and the washer works intermittently I would suspect you have a bad door latch assembly. Just to be sure you will need to check all your wiring connections going to the central control unit and door latch. To access follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the three 7mm screws holding the top panel on. They are located along the top edge in the back of the washer. Once the screws are removed the top panel will slide back then lift up.
3. The Central Control Unit (CCU) is located in the central rear of the washer. You can't miss it. Make sure all the connections are plugged in snugly. The door latch connections are located behind the front panel on the right hand side. Check ONE connection at a time.

After checking wiring harness, run systems diagnostics test by performing the following:

Select DRAIN/SPIN, NO/SPIN, followed by pushing any button under OPTIONS 4 times. If entered correctly the display will read "C00" and you should hear the door latch "click". The diagnostics will run through a series of tests to include FILL, AGITATE, DRAIN and SPIN functions. Since the door latch is the first step of the diagnostic sequence, the tests will not progress if the door latch fails. You can push PAUSE/CANCEL any time to end diagnostics. Run this test several times. If anything fails you will get an "F" code in the display window. If the tests all pass, the unit will shut off, followed by an audible "beep" and the CLEAN light indicator will be lit. If you get successful results, then you know you probably had a loose wire somewhere. If the test fails, I would attempt to replace the door latch before the CCU. The latch costs considerably less. The CCU can cost as much as $220 depending on where you get it.

If you decide to replace the door latch follow these steps:

1. Make sure washer is unplugged.
2. Locate the wire hoop retaining ring that holds the rubber door boot on. It will be located behind the front edge of the rubber where it meets the door frame.
3. Locate the tension spring at the 6 o'clock position and stretch the spring apart to release the hoop. Pull the hoop from the bottom first and remove from the door boot.
4. Pull door boot from door opening and fold back inside wash tub so you can access behind the front panel of the washer.
5. Remove the three torx screws that hold the door latch on.
6. The door latch is seated in a plastic retainer bracket. Reach in behind front panel and carefully remove the door latch from this bracket so you can access the wire connectors.
7. Remove wire connectors.
8. Re-install wire connectors and latch in reverse order of how it was removed.
9. Re-install door boot, ensuring it seated properly all the way around the door frame opening.
10. Re-insert wire retaining hoop in the groove behind the front lip of the rubber door boot starting at the 12 o'clock position and working your way around to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (You may need a second set of hands for this part). While holding downward tension on the hoop to keep it seated, stretch the spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop back into place at the bottom of the door opening.

Run system diagnostics again to see if the latch functions properly and all tests pass. Good luck to you and I hope this helps you.

May 06, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer


I had the same problem this past month! There is a diagnostic sheet behind the front panel ( lower) of your washer that gives all the codes and what they mean. that one means failure of door latch. I just replaced my door latch this past week. I could not for the life of me get Sears you to fix it even after 5 weeks and I had an extended warranty! They sent the part and my husband fixed if in 5 minutes. The only hard part was putting the rubber boot back on the door but he did it alone. Fix Ya gave me a link to go to for instructions on how to replace the door latch motor. It just plugs in with little things that look like blades on a socket. Very easy. You can order the door latch through any parts dealer and I can give you the part number if you need it. I understand form FixYa that you are to NEVER slam the door on an electronic front loader as it can damage the door latch. Mine lookid perfectly good when we removed it so I don't know what the problem was. All I know is that they sure don't build 'em like they used to and I probably won't buy another Sears product after this experience of not being able to get service. They have only ONE repairman for a 100 mile radius! I have written the higher ups in Sears but I bet I won't hear a word unless it is a "form letter". I told them not to bother. I hope this helps you as I know how frustrating it is to try and get that door to latch. I take it the door is not latching so the machine won't start? Try unplugging it for awhile and see if that helps. It did mine temporarily.

Sep 19, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Door will not shut

if the stike on the door is not broken then it is the door latch

May 27, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I cannot get my clothes out of my he3 washer...

Here's how to get your clothes out of the washer WITHOUT causing damage to your machine.

There is a manual release, but you need to remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are three torx screws (7mm) under the lower portion of the panel. Remove the panel and set it aside.

If you reach behind the front casing of the washer by the door latch there is a release tab on the lower portion of the door latch assembly. It is a plastic tab and round in shape. You're probably going to have to feel for it. Once you find it, pull straight down towards the floor while gently pulling on the door. The door will open.

With all that said, if you are experiencing an F11 error associated with an Fdl error, chances are you have a bad door latch assembly. That may be the reason why it is repeatedly trying to lock and does not recognize that it is. If you decide to replace the door latch assembly your part number is 1094190 and costs about $50. The electronic control board you would need is part number 959503 and costs about $150. The problem with the F11 error is that the problem could be caused by the control board, a bad door latch, or bad wiring. Sometimes it can be a combination of both electronic components. Here's a way you can try to narrow it down:

1. Place the washer into diagnostics mode: On the operator console select DRAIN/SPIN, NO SPIN, the under OPTIONS press any button (must be the same button) 4 times. The washer should go into diagnostics mode at this point. "C00" will be displayed on the console you should hear a distinctive "click" of the door latch. If the door latch fails to lock, diagnostics will not start. Chances are you have a bad door latch at this point.

2. Another thing to try is to remove the top panel of the washer to expose the Control Board. It is located in the center rear of the machine. You cannot miss it. With the washer unplugged, check all your connections ONE at a time. Then attempt to run diagnostics again to see if the problem persists.

3. If you are able to get the washer to start diagnostics and an F11 appears, chances are you have a control board problem.

These troubleshooting tips are not an exact science, but I have been successful with isolating the problem this way. More commonly, the door latch fails because of the constant wear it gets. However, if you wish to replace both components to be sure, they are both easily replaced by the average do-it-youselfer. At a cost of $200 it's still cheaper than buying a new washer.

I hope this helps you. Post back with comments and let me know if you need further assistance.

Nov 11, 2007 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer

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