Model JCKP14WS-1 from GEa real pain in the neck , oven work 20 min.
We have this oven for 6 years, GE told-us they do not have new boards, so we send-it 3 times to rebuilt, every times it works 20 or near then shut down and the only thing working is the oven light. In my mind it is not on the board it is somewhere else but it is a wall oven so not easy to look at the back. If you can help shure I will pray for you -) (or pay a beer if you live near from here.At 3 occasions it was a serviceman from GE who came and he also is near depression.......I have contact GE by email and they told-me that model number do not exist so I tooke a picture of the ticket with model and serial number , never heard of them after, I was disappointed to be serve that way by a north american company next time I will buy chineese, at least I will understand why it will not work Hi!Hi!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I have a DACOR double electric oven model ECD230SCH. the top oven lower element went out 1 and 1/2 years ago, but the top element broiler works. Yesterday the bottom oven did the same thing- bottom element not working along with convection. Pulled off doors and cut breaker. Checked thermal switch on top off oven- closed good. Pull out element and Ohm'ed out- good. Now pulled over and out oven top panel to get to the control boards. Found a nice set of schematics for the over control boards and electronics. Sat down and pin-pointed both relays that supply power to upper and lower oven "lower" heating elements. these are on 2 different boards- upper over relays on bigger board on the left with the transformer. Lower oven on the right smaller board. Hardest pain in the rear was just getting the little plastic stand offs to push back through the board to get it off. Finally got it off and inspected board. Low and behold the relay I pin-pointed had a burn/open connection on the solder joint. Re-soldered tested oven and lower oven lower heat element works now! Went to the next board and got that off and same exact problem on the rely for the top oven lower element. Re-solder and test- good!! Put everything together and ran over to 350 on top and lower and back to normal. Wife very happy she did not have to pay a repair man big bucks to swap out the control boards- would have had to replace both.
I have a degree in electronic technology so as a technician for many years did low and high voltage component level repairs. But pretty easy and you can visually see the open solder joint on the back of the board at the relay leg.
Jim B Roseville, CA.
I don't have a solution unfortunately, but I'm having the same problem. I had someone come out to look at it and they said that part #W10244191 was a mistake b/c of the larger slot and Whirlpool hasn't started production on correcting this problem... nice,eh?! I think this is a Whirlppol problem and they need to do something about it, and quick!
you may want to check your broil element
turn the unit on and wait a few minutes
see if you can feel the heat from the upper broiler elemnet
some model use both elements to preheat
i dont have your productiuon number so i cannot be sure with your model
14-20 mins is the industry standard for a 350 preheat...
Hello. I am a Viking factory trained tech. and that is actually a normal preheat time.
Now if it undercooks that is another problem.
You may need your thermostat calibrated or replaced. If you think you are up to calibrating it yourself let me know. If it is the kind that doesn't have any white silicone in the center of the knob stem then it is quit a pain in the neck, but if it does have the silcone then it is a lot easier.
You said, We have an OLD (1950-60) Frigidaire wall oven, model # RBG-94. Bottom
heating element has gone out. Oven is still in good shape so we'd like
to be able to find an element replacement, but have had no luck finding
unfortunately, I am not able to find this part either. Anywhere. This oven is to old for parts. But most important is that it is causing you high utility rates! Today's appliances save you the arm and the leg that such an old oven is costing you. You have no idea how it is sucking your money out of your pocket! It is unfortunate, that no one told you about this years ago! You payed for more than one oven with your utility bill if you had it since it was new. My advice is do not put good money into bad! Shop for a new one and see your bills go down. my wife was telling me to replace the air and furnace for 7 years and I said, it's not broken. But it was over 20 years old. She was right, cause the new one saved me $100. a month! That means I threw away $7000. in 6 years with my old world attitude. Yes I am old fashion and always fix it! But after 25 years of marriage. i finally realized she is a good evaluator and I was a fool to not appreciate her gift for all these years! And out tons more money than I told you about!
Hope I saved you some bucks with my real life stories! Don't tell your wife!!! Huuum