Question about Kenmore HE5 Electric Dryer

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Kenmore Elite HE5 - Check Lint Screen Light and error F25 Model # : 110.87081601 The power turns on and the Sensing/Revising Est Time light stays yellow. Also the Check Lint Screen light is red and stays on until another button is pushed. When I try to start a cycle, the machine just beeps, I hear a click and... nothing! I cleaned out the Lint Screen even took it apart and cleaned it from back to front and there are no obstructions. I put the machine in diagnostics mode and it showed a F25 error. I replaced the Inlet Thermistor/High Temp Thermostat as advised by the tech sheet... no go. Please help...

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

JR JR
  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: check lint screen light on and dryer not turning on

check belt might be broken,,,,

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: 73952 / 73954 / 73956 Gas Dryer: my kenmore elite HE5 110.8772 is not heating. My...

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


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Posted on Sep 30, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore elite dryer. I just ran a load

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




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Posted on Sep 30, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101


'; '; ';

Posted on Jul 04, 2011

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Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

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'; '; ';

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F25 indicates a possible drive motor tachometer error. (NOTE: The tech sheet is located behind the front quarter panel- remove the three hex head screws at the very bottom to remove the panel. The tech sheets will be folded up in a little plastic pouch.

The f25 error code is a motor tachometer error. To determine the problem you will have to remove the top cover and the front access panel. On some models, the rear panel will have to be taken off for easier access to the motor control. Now with the washer-unplugged remove the each plug one at a time and make sure the pins in the connector are not bent then reseat them on the board. Now retest the washer. If the washer still fails, you will need a meter to ohm the motor.

With the washer unplugged, locate the motor harness. Now unplug the motor connector to ohm the motor. Follow the list below to check the motor.

* Pin 1 to 3 6 ohms
* Pin 1 to2 6 ohms
* Pin 2 to 3 6 ohms
* Pin 4 to5 115 ohms

If the readings are close to what is listed above the motor is fine.

Live voltage checks are dangerous, and possibly deadly. Exercise caution at all times. If you are not comfortable working with live electricity I suggest you call an experienced service technician. I have provided you with a wire diagram with what the voltages should be. If the voltages are correct I would then recommend that you replace the motor control.


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If the control is unable to properly detect motor speed, the machine shuts down.
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1. Verify the shipping system including shipping bolts, spacers and the power cord are removed.
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4. Check wire harness connections between the drive motor and the Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU).
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. Check the MCU by looking for operations of the drive motor.
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