Question about Desa International R40 Utility Heater

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I have tried adjusting air pump pressure. I can not get to the 3 psi setting. Adjuster is screwed all the way in and I am getting a reading of 2psi??

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Make sure you have checked the back of the pump cover for cracks in the black plastic housing.

A small crank will prevent the unit from producing the correct amount of pressure.

Here is a service manual link.

http://www.desaparts.com/service_manuals.html

Posted on Oct 07, 2010

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1 Answer

With only one adjustment *****, can't figure out how to adjust cut-in and cut-out levels.


There is only one adjustment screw because it has a fixed differential. A 20 lb differential is standard. I recommend a 40-60 pressure setting which gives you an average water press of 500 psi. With a 40 cut-in, your tank pressure should be set at 38 psi. There is a schrader valve at the top of the tank. Use a tire gauge to set it at 38 psi. Do that first. Now set your press switch by running water and observing at what pressure the pump kicks in at. Don't worry about the cut-out pressure. It's trial and error.
Let the pressure build up above 45 psi and then run water until you hear the pump kick on. Keep doing this until the pump kicks on at 40 psi. It may take a few tries, so I recommend having someone else turning the water on and off for you.

Apr 14, 2016 | Plumbing

Tip

Torpedo Heater Pump Pressure Adjustment


The most critical factor in getting your kerosene torpedo heater to run is the air pressure that the pump puts out. This air pressure is what pulls the fuel out of the bottom of the heater. It is very important that this is set correctly.

80d31e2.jpg

You will need a low pressure gauge (0-15 PSI) and a screw driver to make this adjustment.

On the back of your heater there will be a short and a long protrusion. Pull the plug out of the short one and insert the pressure gauge. The longer one is the adjuster screw. This is a very simple device that has a ball a spring and a set screw. Turn in on this screw just places more tension on the ball to allow less air to escape and raise the pressure inside the heater.

If you cannot get a high enough pressure then there is a leak or the pump is worn too much. To check for a leak use soapy water and check all the parts. The black plastic back can crack or the cork of the pump gasket can leak. Sometimes the rotor and vanes will go bad but not likely.

So, insert the pressure gauge in the short port, start the motor and check reading, you will only have a short time to do this if your heater is not firing. Turn the longer screw in or clockwise to raise the pressure and out CCW to decrease the pressure. Adjust to factory specs. And you will be getting warmed up.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3818299-reddy_heater_troubleshooting_torpedo

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3903547-torpedo_heater_kerosene_heater_portable

on Jan 06, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Starts then shuts off


REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Feb 17, 2015 | Reddy R60A Utility Heater

1 Answer

Starts then shuts down


REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Mar 02, 2014 | Reddy Heater-170,000 BTU Kerosene Deluxe

1 Answer

Adjust reddy heater pump pressure it will not pump passed 2half psi i need it to go to 4half psi


To adjust the pump pressure on this type of heater, turn the threaded adjuster clockwise to increase the air pressure, but if the adjustment makes no difference, there maybe a loss of air pressure caused by a crack in the plastic filter end cover, the rubber seal at the end of the nozzle may be broken, gone hard, cracked or missing, there could be a crack in the burner head (where the nozzle screws in), leaking air supply pipe between the compressor and the burner head, the rotor and/or blades may be worn or damaged, or if contaminated with dirt,paint spray or oil, one or more blades may be stuck in the rotor If contaminated they will need to be replaced, but if doing so, remember to reset the clearance between the top of the rotor and the pump body, your manual will give you the correct clearance.

Jan 15, 2014 | Master Heaters Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Porta heat 55 model 50137 does not work, fuel problems


REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Jan 21, 2013 | Reddy Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Porter Cable pancake rated at 150 PSI stops at 135 PSI. It has done this since it was new.


If it's pumping up to 135 psi, shutting off and then restarts at the same pressure point since it was new, the pressure switch may have been set low at the factory. I don't know which model you have but most pressure switches have directions inside their cover as to how to adjust the cut-out and cut-in pressures. Be careful doing this, overpressuring the tank is dangerous. There is an adjustment screw or bolt that changes the pressure on the switch spring. Some pressure switches have two screws, one for cut-in and one for cut-out pressure. A few have one that adjust both pressures. If you do adjust the cut-in/cut-out levels, do it slowly and cycle the motor a couple times between each adjustment to see where it turns off and on. If the compressor is doing what you want it to, only pumping to 135 psi, it will live longer than if you adjust it up to 150 psi. Those last 15 psi of air are hard to get and will mean the motor will be running longer and more heat will be building up in the head.

Oct 01, 2012 | Porter Cable Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

My kerosene torpedo heater turns on but then it dies after five seconds


REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Jan 08, 2012 | Reddy Heater-70,000 BTU Kerosene w/T'stat

1 Answer

Can I limit the pressure to 120 PSI, the upper recommended limit for my nail gun?


adjust your pressure switch on your compressor .remove the cap and turn the screw clockwise to increase and counterclockwise decrease.turn the screw counterclockwise a bit and release some air till the compressor start pumping.then just before to reach 120 psi turn counterclockwise to stop the compressor at 120.then release some air again till it cuts in again and look at what pressure it will stop.keep going that way till you get your 120 psi.cut in should be around 90 psi(30 psi differential)depending what kind of pump you have (if the pump can handle 150 psi )you can adjust it to cut in at 120 and cut off at 150 and install a pressure regulator adjusted to 115 to 120 and get a nice steady pressure going to your nail gun.(the best way to do it!!!)

Jan 17, 2011 | Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

Pressure switch adjustment problem...


I think I follow you... the adjuster over the large screw is used to set your tank pressure but also sets the cut-in/cut-off pressure. You have another regulator to control the pressure to and thru your hose but that doesn't insure that you won't exhaust the tanks supply and use more air than your pump can produce. It doesn't matter what pressure you set it at if your pump can't produce enough cubic feet per minute of air to keep up with your output. If your air use/output is within the pumps output, your idea will work just fine and you can set the hose regulator just below the cut-in pressure but Remember, even a little airbrush uses a lot of compressed air but sanders, grinders, sprayers and impacts use a Ton so don't try this without having somebody monitor the compressor periodically while you try it. It all depends on your air demand.

Apr 27, 2017 | Campbell Hausfeld G5396 7 Hp 60 Gallon...

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