Question about Hitachi 57GWX20B 57" Rear Projection Television
Your convergence amplifiers are bad. You probably also have a fried fuse that feeds power to these amplifiers, and you may have to replace some of the resistors in the convergence amplifier circuitry. Check these parts with an ohmmeter after you remove the amplifier modules so any shorts in the amplifiers won't interfere with the ohmmeter readings.
Do not try to adjust the convergence before replacing the amplifiers. It won't work, and will only make a lot of extra work trying to adjust it back after you install the new parts. (Now you can be glad you couldn't get into the service screen.) BTW, the instructions for getting there probably want you to press a volume control or other button on the set itself while pressing the power button on the remote control. A lot of people try and fail using only buttons on the remote control, but for this purpose they are not interchangeable with the ones on the set.
The convergence amplifiers are two black plastic slabs marked STK392-nnn (nnn is a 3 digit type variant number). They are bolted to either an aluminum plate or finned block (heat sink) on the deflection circuit board, and there are 12-18 pins coming out of the bottom edge of the slab soldered into the circuit board. When you replace them (change both), clean off the white grease on the heat sink, and apply a very thin film of new heat sink compound to the back surface of the new amplifiers before installing. You need just enough to fill in any microscopic voids and ensure good wet contact heat transfer; too much will actually reduce heat transfer. Spread it out with a putty knife or similar tool, and don't scratch the parts (scratches won't ruin them, but will reduce heat transfer efficiency).
I wonder about the greenish yellow color. It should be green unless there is red overlapping it. Either you have a problem with your color vision or the coolant fluid in the green CRT assembly is breaking down (a separate problem from the convergence amps). This will cause muddy yellowish-looking colors. CRT coolant should be clear, but will turn yellow if it's bad. It is replaceable (there are a number of online resources describing the process). The major concerns are to absolutely avoid spilling any inside the set (broken-down coolant is conductive and will destroy electronics as soon as you turn on the power), and marking the initial positions of everything so you can get the optics realigned without a lot of hassle.
Posted on Oct 06, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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