Question about Singer 7462 Mechanical Sewing Machine

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Is there a secret to getting the cover apart?

On trying to get the case to come apart, it looks like it is in two halves. I have taken all the screws out from the bottom, sides, top, and end but the two halves just don't want to separate. The end where the Hand Wheel is seems like something is still holding the halves together and I don't want to force anything. There must be something holding the case together that I don't see. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you, Glenn

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Hi Glenn.
I find it very difficult to get imformation for your machine model.
So try this.
If the two parts are still holding near to the handwheel, I beleave that there is a hidden screw under the handwheel.
Try to remove the handwheel and check.

Posted on May 29, 2008

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  • The case halves are held together by 5 larger screws, one under the carry handle, obvious from the holes in the casing, plus one smaller screw up by the foot-raising lever.
  • There is also the final screw, which is a devil to find. You have to remove the plastic tray to which the spool carrier is attached, up by the spool winder. You do not need to remover the spool winder stop but the small screw on the left, in the bottom of the tray-shape.
Next, WITH CARE , lever round the tray with a thin blade and use a small screwdriver to ease it out of the case; there are 2 bits that stick out more than the rest.
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I took both my CS 8080s apart last week to replace the drive rubbers. The first took nearly 1.5 hours, the next 1 hour as I knew what I was about.

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Here's MY answer.
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  • There is also the final screw, which is a devil to find. You have to remove the plastic tray to which the spool carrier is attached, up by the spool winder. You do not need to remover the spool winder stop but the small screw on the left, in the bottom of the tray-shape.
Next, WITH CARE , lever round the tray with a thin blade and use a small screwdriver to ease it out of the case; there are 2 bits that stick out more than the rest.
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TAKE CARE NOT TO DROP THE SCREW INTO THE WORKS!. A piece of sticky-tack on the end of the screwdriver helps here if the screwdriver is not magnetized.
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I took both my CS 8080s apart last week to replace the drive rubbers. The first took nearly 1.5 hours, the next 1 hour as I knew what I was about.

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Replacing the bobbin winder rubber ring.
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  • There is also the final screw, which is a devil to find. (see 3rd image)You have to remove the plastic tray to which the spool carrier is attached, up by the spool winder. You do not need to remover the spool winder stop but the small screw on the left, in the bottom of the tray-shape.
Next, WITH CARE , lever round the tray with a thin blade and use a small screwdriver to ease it out of the case; there are 2 bits that stick out more than the rest.
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TAKE CARE NOT TO DROP THE SCREW INTO THE WORKS!. A piece of sticky-tack on the end of the screwdriver helps here if the screwdriver is not magnetized.
  • Now you can carefully ease the ribbon-strip cable from the circuit board and move the case round to be able to access the screws that hold the circuit board. You do not need to pull out the other cables; just take a tad of care as you work.
The bobbin winder mechanism is held in by 1 screw - take this out and you can then easily replace the rubber drive ring -(which you have providently ordered)
  • Take the opportunity to clear out any fluff and dust while you have the cases apart. Put ONE drop of oil in the center of the bobbin carrier rotating mechanism and one drop on any moving joints.
  • Replace the components/ ribbon cable in the reverse order, taking care not to drop the small screw! It is necessary to carefully line-up the hole into which it fits. It is surprising how easily the tray clips back into place, compared with the hassle you had getting it out.
I took both my CS 8080 apart last week to replace the drive rubber. It took nearly 1.5 hours along with the cleaning and lubing.
I am sorry the 3rd image is so small. It shows the screw to remove to access the arrowed screw in the second image

brother-cs-80-winding-bobbin-makes-qa0ugypaytbcwitrzme1v3l4-3-0.jpg

brother-cs-80-winding-bobbin-makes-qa0ugypaytbcwitrzme1v3l4-3-1.png

brother-cs-80-winding-bobbin-makes-qa0ugypaytbcwitrzme1v3l4-3-3.jpg

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Sorry I have not seen that particular model brother here in Australia, however i have worked on and gone through training on similar looking models (training provided by Brother)
First off, whats the supply voltage difference? USA being 110V at the outlet, what does Ireland use? if not +/- 5% you will need a way of converting whats available at the outlet to what your machine wants (this could explain why it went "...bum..." to start with?

Also this machine will not use a breaker, A fuse is a hell of a lot cheaper, so you are looking for a glass tube fuse, likely about 12mm long.
Getting this machine will not be easy for you with out damaging it.
you will need to remove the light cover (one screw at the back typicly), there will be a bunch other screws in the back, and a few in around the bobbin area, and a few that where hidding under the light unit cover. Then while upside down, take the base plate off (if one) and firmly pry the front and back covers apart from the bottom. pressing at the join inside the free arm area to break the seal, the covers will then need to be taken as far apart as much as you can till you think it is about to break. Then hit it apart very firmly with the palm of your hand, you will hear a loud crack as it comes apart, this is normal. And if you missed a screw, you will need to replace the covers as you would have just broken it.

Best leave it to a pro if you value the machine.


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Dear jbanistr,

My wife and I just had this same problem (or at least getting the cover off) and have a possible solution. Safety first, unplug your machine from the wall. Next remove all the screws, three by handle, three on the bottom, one on the rear of the sleeve arm, one on the light bulb cover and one inside the lightbulb cover that goes sideways into the frame. I believe that's all of them but look for any that hold plastic-to-plastic or plastic-to-metal. Take note not to change the stich settings or else you'll have to find and set the number wheel and the adjuster to match, not fun. The way we did it was starting from the top, pry the case apart slightly and with a flat screwdriver gently lift the case over the three adjusting wheels so they clear. We then, with difficulty, pried the case the rest of the way open, with a really loud pop! A better way might have been to start pring from the bottom, but it worked. Reassembly was just the reverse, just fit the top first and put all those screws back in.

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1 Answer

Is there a secret to getting the plastic cover to separate to adjust the belt for the Singer 7462?


These split cases are a right pain to put it mildly..........

Before we go further, you have got the handwheel in the sewing position, not for bobbin winding, haven't you ?!?!

OK, sorry, but it's like "turn the thing on at the wall guys"....often simple things are overlooked.

So here goes..

Although you may think you have undone all the screws, there are usually several that merely clamp a small lug, so a half turn to looses is all you need, not to undo completely, as they are not passing through a hole, merely a U shaped retaining lug attached to the casing.

They may be near the bobbin case/hook race area at the back of the machine, but undone from inside at the front.......around near the needle arm is another favourite spot to clamp front and rear sections.........some of these machines from various manufacturers have more than 12 retaining screws !!!!

There is also a tricky one that is a 2mm hex bolt (Allen Key) that is accessed through the air vent flutes under the handwheel near the power inlet !!

I hate them all, and I have service manuals (for Janome at least) to tell you where to look !!

Different makes and models have differing places to look.......design by committee to save manufacturing costs and keep technician stress at fever pitch.

The other loathesome thing, is to do with the small clips moulded to either side of the joint .....they seem designed to push together once only, in the factory before boxing and distribution........they are NOT friendly if anyone needs open it again to service the machine some time later and are easily broken off.

....a couple of small screwdrivers to lever and wedge an increasing section apart can work, but do not force anything that does not want to come easily, you may not have undone all those screws the first time............

My absolute best advice for these is to take it to a technician who has the service manual for your model or you will almost certainly have broken clips and an ill fitting case, plus the ensuing anguish and fury of the person whose machine you didn't fix.

By all means have a play at it, but if there is any danger of frustration and the temptation to force something, get up and put the kettle on immediately, then call for backup.

May 28, 2008 | Singer 7462 Mechanical Sewing Machine

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