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If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
The thermostat should be located inside the rear cover. Undo the screws and open the cover. In dryers when the thermostat doesn't work it normally needs to be reset by pressing a small button on the thermostat housing.
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then: Check your Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Check the Door Switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch. Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity) If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. (Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it) DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website: davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then: Check your Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Check the Door Switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch. Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity) If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. (Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it) DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. Please rate me
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then: Check your Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Check the Door Switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch. Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity) If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. (Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it) DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website: davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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Try pushing the reset button located inside the dryer housing. (Remove top, then outer housing 'wrap around', reset button is behind the outer 'wrap around' metal in the front of the dryer.)
It doesn't work at allIf your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with:Power from the houseDoor switchThermal fuseWiringPower from the houseCheck to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.Door switchIf the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Thermal fuseOn many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing
Hi, If this is a whirlpool model dryer, try this:
Normal
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UNPLUG the dryer! Remove the rear panel of the
dryer and locate the fuse. It is white and ¼” wide and 3” long. It is located
on the blower housing. Remove the wires and check to see if it has continuity.
If it does not, you need to replace it. If this is another brand dryer, please let me know the model # so I can assist yyou further.
Hi, The only thing you can reset is the beaker for the dryer in you breaker panel for the house. As far as the dryer, if it doesn't start at all, you will need to test the fuse in the dryer. First thing!! Unplug the dryer. This fuse is none resetable. Most models have the fuse located in the back of the dryer. You will need to remove the rear panel and locate the fuse on the blower housing. The fuse is white and is 1/4" wide and about 2" long with two wires attached to it. If the fuse has coninuity, then it is ok. This is the most common problem. Other causes could be door switch, timer, or the motor.
Hope this gives a little help. Need more, let me know
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