Hello, while watching a film, half way through it turned to monochrome, has never come back colour. The projector has only 274 Hrs from new, if you plug the computer in it shows colour, bought a s-video lead but says there is no input detected. please help!
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Had this problem a long time ago - film on input reel was wound too tightly, and kept pulling. only fix I found was to wind film back and forth without going through the projector half a dozen times, then try again. Other possibility could be that the drive belt tension needs adjusting - how you do this depends on the projector If these do not help, then suspect something more serious and take it to a reputable repair facility, but it could be expensive. Might be cheaper to get the films digitised to DVD.
For a projector to run right, the motor has gear teeth in it that engage with the hollow points on the film itself. The motor has to turn at a steady speed with no friction or hesitation. It is possible the motor on the inside of the projector needs to be oiled or cleaned out...or rebuilt at worse.
There is also the motor that pulls the film thru the projector and winds it onto the receiving spool. Sometimes that motor is out of synch with the projector drive motor and trys to pull the film thru to fast or turns to slow and the you get that "clicking " sound when the receiving spool isn't winding the film up fast enough and the film gets dragged on by those projector teeth and make that plastic clicking sound.
Watch the film while it is running between the two reels and the projector lens. The film should be slightly taunt going into the projector and slightly taunt coming back out of the projector. If you see the film grouping up in front of the projector drive or after, then you know your spools are needing greased up or there is a drag on the motors causing things to be unsynchronized.
This is definitely a mechanical problem and you need to watch the film being fed into the projector and how it is wound up n the receiver spool to see where the fault lies.
Back-light problem. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
35mm film, preferably ISO 200 or 400, although on bright days you can easily use ISO 100 as well. You can choose between 12 (scarce and not worth it), 24 or 36 exposures and check that the film has not passed it's expiry date as it can result in poor colours and contrast.
Users have their own brand preferences, Fuji and Kodak tend to have brighter and more vivid colours, Agfa tends to be more earthy and natural in tone, and most store own brands will tend to resemble Agfa. You won't go far wrong with any of them. If you prefer you can also use monochrome (a.k.a. black and white) film, but unless it says on the side of the box that it's "C41 compatible" then you'll need to use a processing lab which specialises in monochrome. C41 is the name of the processing system used for colour film and so C41 monochrome can be processed by a regular High St or drug-store minilab.
Hello, By any chance is your source PAL? What you are describing is caused by a slower frame rate ie. PAL accompanied by the natural persistence of the human eye. If you reduce the brightness level or turn a light on you will be able to reduce these artifacts.
To check to see if it is a camera fault of developing fault you could try using a cheap colour film in the camera and getting it developed at a normal photo processor.
This will determine in which half of the process the fault lies.
If the pictures from the colour film are the same then it must be a camera usage problem or fault.
If the pictures are ok from the colour film then it will be a problem in either the film being used, developing problem (poor mix of chemicals etc).