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I am attempting to bring an acer 5920-6864 back to life for a friend. I found and fixed a broken wire in the positive (red?) side of the power lead that runs from the AC adapter plug in to the motherboard connection. the right light (HDD) on the case front now lights up but the battery will not charge and the notebook will still not power up.Whjat is my next step?

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Is the powerpack light on?
Does it stay on when your plug it into the moterboard?
Is the light on to indicate that the computer is plugged into the charger?
If all of the above is in order then take the battery out and see if the computer runs directly from the adaptor without battery.
If so then replace battery pack and see what happens.
If not, then there is still a problem or two with the mother board.

Posted on Dec 28, 2010


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I have 89rs cavalier,the injector quit spraying. Tryed replacing computer,crank sensor,did not fix problem. I jump the injector and it sprays. Can anyone help me with this problem? I love my car and don't...

Check the ECM 15 amp fuse, position or fuse #3 in the fuse block. This fuse supplies power both to the injector and to the ignition coil. The red wire to the injector is the power wire, and it should be hot in run or on. If no power on the red wire with key on, check that the coil has power to it on the pink and black wire. If the coil has power, but none to the injector, the red wire is open between fuse #3 and the injector.

If the red wire has power, but the injector doesn't pulse, check the blue ground wire from injector to the ECM. The ground wire may be broken. When the computer internally grounds the injector circuit for a split second, that is what causes the pulse. The injector has constant voltage to it on the red wire when the key is on.

To check the ground wire for continuity, use a voltmeter set to ohms, one lead on the blue wire terminal at the injector, and the other lead on the blue wire pin at the ECM connector that has that blue wire. Take the connector off at the ecm. (take the negative battery terminal off first.) You may have to use a jumper wire from the injector terminal towards the passenger side, so the ohmmeter leads can reach between the ecm connector under the glove box, and to the injector. If the ohmmeter shows low ohms-low resistance to current flow-then the wire is good and not broken.

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Lost a power cable?

Like it was walking down the street one day, and the power cable fell out of it's pocket?

Or do you mean came loose?

Or in YOUR estimate, that one power cable coming from the Power Supply, is bad?

The first one I was trying to be funny.
I'm serious about the last two.

Hmmm, okay let's try this another way,

(Notice I didn't even go to Acer Support. With the info they give the consumer, it isn't worth the trouble. Also tells you a lot about this computer company.........)

Oh, I see................

I just got schooled.

Don't believe there are any power wires inside to connect, Christina.
Power is from an external power supply, that plugs into the computer.
(Like a laptop)

The only wires in my estimate, is;
A) The small audio wire from the optical drive (CD/DVD drive) to the motherboard, (Close to the Blue VGA port)

B) The Front Panel wires,

C) USB Front Panel port wires to motherboard

D) Media Card Reader wires to motherboard

E) Harddrive and optical drive data cables to motherboard. (One each)

(The front of your computer is the Front Panel)

Computer not coming on?
See if the external power supply is good.

Voltage coming out is supposed to be 19 Volts DC.

The plug end on the external power supply;

The center hole is the Positive ( + ) connection.
The cylindrical metal shell on the outside, is the Negative ( - ) connection.

Multimeter positive ( Red) probe lead goes to center hole.
Negative ( Black ) probe lead touches outside cylindrical metal shell.

Multimeter positive (Red) probe lead, plugs into red hole on multimeter, marked DCV.
Negative (Black) probe lead only has one hole (Black), to plug into.

Function knob is set to DC Voltage. DCV.
If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line.
If more than one scale, set it to the 0-50 Volt scale.
(0 to 50 Volts ]

An economical multimeter is about $5 to $12.
Auto parts stores have them. (Although probably more expensive)
I have seen them on checkout aisle racks, at major discount stores.

While checking the AC adapter, have an assistant gently wiggle the cable, from the AC adapter TO laptop.
See if the reading on the multimeter fluctuates. If so you have a broken wire in that cable.

Have the assistant also gently wiggle the power cord.

Or take down to nearest 'Mom and Pop' computer shop, (Small store), and have the resident tech check it for a few bucks

Could also be the Power On switch.
This is located inside the plastic assembly, of the power on button.
They go bad, and do not leave a forwarding address ;)

Post back in a Comment.


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Did this vehicle have some body or interior work done to it? It sounds like the ground lead was not reattached on that side during reassembly. Look inside the engine compartment around the fender and head light area for a separate ground lead. Follow the wiring harness as much as you can from there to the back of the vehicle including underneath the vehicle and inside underneath the carpeting. Finally checking the trunk area by the tail lights. If you can't find a separate lead, then attempt to find a ground lead in the harness itself. Connect a test light to the positive terminal (red) of the battery. Probe the test light into one of the light sockets until you find one that causes the test light to light up. You can then splice a wire into this ground lead to function as a test ground connection. Connect the wire to something metal on the vehicle. If the problem goes away then a grounding problem is indicated. This lead connection can be used as a temporary ground until the other connection is found if it is done correctly (good quality splice, right size wire, good solid connections). I hope this information is helpful and thank you for using
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