Question about KitchenAid KAWS850L Top Load Washer

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Washer will not wash, spin, or drain. Thought it was the motor, so I went and got a new one. Put it in and same thing. The motor just makes loud HUMMM... Even with the motor disconnected from the transmission and the pump. Someone please throw me a bone.

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If this a Whirlpool manufactured top loader (such as your KitchenAid), the most common cause of the problem you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price of a replacement lid switch is about $25 - $35 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. The first three sites on the list also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need. If the model number is correct, the lid switch is listed as item 11 under the "Top and Cabinet" parts listing.


As secondary cause would be a defective main drive motor switch (item 20 under the "Brake, Clutch, Gearcase, Motor and Pump" listing). If the replacement motor you purchased did not include the switch, you may have a bad switch.
In addition, a gearcase (transmission) that has seized up, will also cause no agitation or spin problems. The gearcase is listed as item 9 under the same listing as the motor switch. If you check the lid switch and motor switch, and they check good, you may be looking at a transmission failure. This repair is not difficult and I can provide you with step-by-step guidance, if necessary. I would recommend you check the simple things, first, however. If you need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.

Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

Posted on Oct 06, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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GE front load washer model number WBVH6240HWW SERIAL NUMBER RM200099T spins freely by hand but started smoking and belt behind looks fine. What could be the problem. Before the smoke started when spin...


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see this steps and fix it. God bless you

Tub Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might be worn out, this is a common problem. The bearing can be replaced. On some models the bearing is part of the outer tub and the outer tub will need to be replaced.


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Tub Seal and Bearing Kit

If the washer is making a loud noise the tub seal and bearing kit may need to be replaced. This is a common problem. sometimes the tub seal and bearing are part of the outer tub and the outer tub would then need to be replaced.


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Rear Drum with Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replace. On this washer the bearing is not sold separately, the entire rear drum will have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.


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Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the bearing might be worn out. As bearings wear out from friction they gradually get worse and worse until they fail. In the meantime they get louder. If the noise primarily happens during the spin cycle the bearing is likely the problem.


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Drive Pulley

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.


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Pulley

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley may be worn out. If the drive pulley is loose or wobbling it will need to be replaced


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U-Joint Kit

If the washer is making a loud noise the U-Joint may have failed. This is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion in this washer. Although this is not a very difficult repair for a DIY'er with some experience, the part is expensive and so it may be worth considering a new washer.


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Motor Coupling

If the washer is making a loud noise the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission.


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Clutch

If the washer is making a loud noise in the spin cycle, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may become loud during spin or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.


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Drive Belt

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive belt might be defective. Over time the drive belt will dry out and start cracking, eventually a piece of the belt can break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running.


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Transmission

If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.


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Drain Pump

If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.


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Drive Motor

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.


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Water Inlet Valve

If the washer is noisy or loud, particularly when the washer is filling, the water inlet valve is at fault and will need to be replaced.

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