Question about GE 21.9 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator - Bisque-on-Bisque
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.
Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.
The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.
A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.
The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.
There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.
The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.
If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
1. GE is replacing many defective boards free of charge. Check with them to see if you are qualified.
2.The start relay should be closed when refrigerator is de-energized.
3. Still a possible bad compressor or compressor start components. Test performed by service tech on compressor is usually done with a starting test cord. Would answer many questions quickly.
Posted on Oct 30, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you jackfrost555. My start relay is open when de-energized. Start and run ohms do not indicate an open or shorted winding(S)."
I would suggest replacing the # 4 thermistor , which is a 1 " long white piece with 2 white wires attached , clipped to the top of the coils . This thermistor , tells the main control board , the temperature of the coils and the board decides what to do next , such as defrost , end defrost cycle . Also , replace the defrost thermostat , the 1 inch cylinder with 2 wires going to it , which is also clipped onto the coils . This thermostat , cuts the heater off when it reaches a certain temperature , to keep the food from defrosting . It may also help , to replace the # 5 thermistor , which is below the coils , slid into a housing , with 2 white wires going to it also . This thermistor , tells the board , the actual freezer temp , so the compressor will cycle off/on , and the fan speed also . All 3 parts , are relatively not expensive . Be sure to get wire connectors because they do not come with these parts .
Posted on Apr 14, 2010
Testimonial: "Gave excellent help and advice. "
You will need to unplug the fan and test the voltage coming from the board. You should have 12 to 13 volts DC. Unless you place a fan on condenser that blows air to keep it cool until we locate the problem the compressor can be damaged from over heating. Click here=> GE ARTICA PROFILE TECHNICAL INFORMATION On the first diagram the tech sheet and look for J2 that has both sets of wires for evaporator and condenser fan motors. With new board and new fan you must have a bad connection in the wiring harness. Click on wiring diagram and it will open in a new tab as a Service Manual. Look it over and ask me questions as communication will be very important for you to be able to understand all of this. I will be here when ready so please let me know. Please rate my solution after I have helped you resolve the problem and communicate with me. I am offering my help to you free. If need you may contact me here on Fixya or my Forum=> Appliance 911 My contact information is located above the Fixya Ad on my blog here=> Sea Breeze Appliance Parts and Technical Services, www.pcappliancerepair.com
Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Jun 04, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
If it is just the condenser fan that means you have a fan relay that has welded shut. Turn power off to your unit and trace the wires from your condenser fan back into the control panel at the unit. You'll have 3 wires going to it. 2 go to the run capacitor and one goes to the fan relay. The one that goes to the fan relay is the part that needs to be replaced. If you have no fan relay and it goes to the main contractor, half of your main contractor is welded shut and will need to be replaced.
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