Question about GE Refrigerators
Frost free refrigerator models utilize a drain to take the water melted off the coils to the evaporator pan. This pan collects the water in the bottom of the unit and uses the heat of the compressor to increase the evaporation rate. If this drain becomes clogged with ice or debris it will back-up and eventually over flow. This overflow usually collects in the bottom of the fresh food compartment below but can also leak onto the floor.
To correct the problem, you must locate the drain and inspect it for blockage. Often, you'll find it frozen, but it's usually always solid debris blocking the flow of the water that's CAUSING it to freeze: and that must be removed from the drain or it WILL happen again.
After unplugging the fridge from the AC power, go ahead and pull the unit out where you can access the back. This is also a GREAT opportunity to clean dust off of the condenser coils and compressor, which will GREATLY lower your energy costs! (Use a Vacuum with brush attachment)
Depending on the model of refrigerator in question, the drain port can be located in several places. The most likely location is just under the freezer, which is actually the top of the fresh food compartment: The tube usually comes out there, and down the outside of the refrigerator; (On Back) However, it can also be under the coils behind the false back and/or side walls. At any rate, when looking for it, keep in mind that its' sole function is to drain water away from the evaporator coils when the unit is defrosting itself; Therefore, it's almost ALWAYS just under the freezer at the end of a "channel" that directs all of the water into it.
Cleaning the Drain... Depends on what's causing the clog.
If it's iced up, the quickest way to thaw it is with a hairdryer. It takes just a minute with the hairdryer set on max.
Before you get happy and close everything up though, ALWAYS check the tube for debris.
About 95% of the time, I've found something in a frozen drain line. Remember: It wouldn't have been frozen in the first place if the water had been able to drain off!
After checking the pan under the freezer for debris in the pan and exit hole, you'll need to check the tube itself. The best test is just to blow through it like you would a straw. If it's clogged, you'll feel some resistance.
To clear a clogged pipe: There are numerous ways, but the most efficient is to use a can of electronics duster. (ONLY the kind that comes with a nozzle extension tube) WITH A PAIR OF CLOTH OR LEATHER WORK GLOVES ON BOTH HANDS!: Stick the nozzle extension down into the drain tube. Wrap one hand around the top of the tube and the nozzle to form as tight a seal as you can, and press the trigger. The clog should be blown right out: if not repeat as necessary. Reconnect it all, then pour a little water through it and check for leaks. Hope this helps!
Posted on Oct 06, 2010
If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within. The advice given is for help asked to us .You must attempt to do it yourself only if you are technically/logically able, especially when dealing with delicate devices, damaging while trying to open, Probing electrical/electronic circuits with high voltage or delicate components. Since the advice given by me is with the inputs provided and not based on a visual inspection, there can be further reviews required in some cases.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
water in front of the door can be the overflow from the defrost tray, a leak from the overflow or drain pipe.
Please check this out and comment.
The advice given is for help asked to us .You must attempt to do it yourself only if you
are technically/logically able, especially when dealing with delicate devices, damaging
while trying to open, Probing electrical/electronic circuits with high voltage or delicate
components. Since the advice given by me is with the inputs provided and not based
on a visual inspection, there can be further reviews required in some cases.
Posted on Oct 06, 2010
Analyzing the likely source
Move the refrigerator out from the wall and look for the location of the leak.
Check the side panels and the seals around the door for beads of "sweat." This could indicate a condensation problem.
Check the floor. A puddle there could indicate a missing or cracked drip pan, or a leak in the water line that feeds your ice maker.
Check for water seeping from the front of the freezer or the refrigerator. This could indicate your defrost drain is plugged or your ice maker is leaking.
Fixing a condensation problem
Check that the doors shut correctly. Hold each door about halfway open, then let go. If the doors don't shut completely, adjust the screw legs on the front of the refrigerator so the unit tilts back a bit. With adjustable pliers, turn each leg one revolution clockwise. Recheck the doors and, if necessary, repeat the process until they shut securely.
Inspect the door gaskets. Look for debris that may keep the doors from shutting. Also check for cracks or gaps in the gaskets that could allow the cold air to seep out. If you find debris, clean the gaskets with warm, soapy water. If you find cracks or gaps, you'll need to replace the gaskets (see How to Fix a Refrigerator That Cools Poorly).
If your refrigerator is equipped with a door-frame heater that evaporates condensation, make sure the heater is turned on. The switch should be located with your other refrigerator controls.
Fixing a drip-pan problem
Pull off the grill that runs along the bottom of your refrigerator.
Locate the drip pan, using a flashlight if necessary. The pan should be sitting on top of a set of black condenser coils and directly below a drain tube that carries water from your freezer when it is in defrost mode.
Place the drip pan in your sink and fill it with water to test for leaks. If it leaks, order a replacement from your appliance dealer.
If the drip pan doesn't leak, clean it with warm, soapy water, then reinstall the pan and the refrigerator grill.
Fixing a clogged defrost drain
Locate the defrost drain. It should be a round hole or a channel running under the vegetable and fruit bins in the refrigerator or along the floor of the freezer compartment.
Inspect the drain for clogs and remove any debris. If necessary, use a small screwdriver to break up debris that's trapped in the drain hole.
Fill a meat baster with hot water and force it through the drain to make sure the clog is gone. If the drain is operating properly, the hot water will fill the drip pan.
Fixing a leaky ice maker
Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and locate the copper water-supply line. It runs from the house water line to the refrigerator water-supply valve. (To get to the supply valve, you may have to use a screwdriver or a nut driver and socket to remove your refrigerator's back access panel.)
Inspect the copper supply line, the supply valve, and the plastic supply tube that runs from the other side of the supply valve to the back of the ice maker.
If a connection is leaking, tighten it with an adjustable wrench. If either the copper supply line or the plastic supply tube is leaking, you need to replace it.
Turn off the water supply. The valve may be under the kitchen sink or connected to a cold-water pipe in your basement.
Remove the faulty line and take it to a hardware store to get an exact replacement.
Install the new line, tighten the connections with the adjustable wrench and turn the water back on.
Posted on Oct 06, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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