Question about Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

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My fisher and paykel dryer is taking a long time to dry cloths do I need a new heating element

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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Posted on Oct 06, 2010

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Heating element not putting out much heat and periodically pops the internal breaker. When it is working, it takes 3 times the normal amount of time to dry a load.


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If your dryer is not drying like it once did or if you just have not taken the time to give yourself a clean dryer in a long time then you need to do that. At least once a year the dryer cleaning should take place. Lint build up in the dryer duct is one of the main causes for your dryer to fail.

Here is the rest of this tip about Dryer Maintenance

heatman101

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No heating


Greetings,
The heating elements do not cost $200 USD buy $80 for both; available online from the most common Fisher-Paykel parts supplier.
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My Fisher Paykel dryer DEGX2 WAS TAKING LONGER AND LONGER TO DRY CLOTHES AND THEN JUST STOP DRYING-DOESN'T GET WARM. THE HEATING ELEMENT WAS REPLACED ABOUT 7 MONTHS AGO. IS THERE A RESET BUTTON IN THE...


Hi.

There is no reset circuit.

Parts that must be tested are high limit thermostat and timer board.
The timer board is replaced if it is visibly faulty, or if there is no problem elsewhere.
The high limit located near to the element is tested reading impedance with a multimeter set at Rx1. If there is no continuity , the thermostat must be replaced.

Before testing parts check the lint filter, and ensure that air ducts are clean.

Regards.

Nov 13, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Fisher Paykel Dryer is taking 3 hours to dry(DeIX2)


Check your cvent going outside. also check to see if the vent is smashed. try using the time dry cycle and see how your clothes turn out. if they are still wet or damp. you have a heating problem. try those solutions.

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DEIX2 does not dry - cleaned out lint trap, disassembled and removed lint from around lint trap assy., still not drying


Check the following areas thoroughly to address this issue.


1. Venting
Make sure the dryer vent hose, as well as the rest of the vent duct, is not clogged.

Unless regular maintenance is performed, chances are there is a lot of lint accumulated inside the dryer. This might affect the drying time and could be a fire hazard. Make sure to have your dryer cleaned regularly. Because this might involve taking most of the dryer apart, it is recommended to have a qualified appliance repairman perform this task.

2. Thermostat
There are a couple of cycling thermostats inside the dryer. If one of them breaks down, it might affect the dryer's performance. Replace the defective thermostat.

3. Heating element
A heating element might only be partially burned out, in which case it would still work but will take longer time to dry the clothes. Replace the element if found defective.

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My fisher paykel DEGX1 won't heat up. everything else works fine.


If you have the same I do then it's the circuit breaker on the heating element. You have to take the front of the dryer off: Two screws on the top under the caps. Then lift the top alittle and you'll see the two screws on the front top sheet metal. The front then can be removed by pulling each side out and forward. The orange button is all the way at the bottom. Push and you'll hear it click.

Mar 05, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My ge wont dry clothes it takes 2 hours


Check the exhaust duct. It's best to have a short run and no obstructions. It's also possible that a heating element could have been damaged in the move.

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Yes, get a new element. The reason it's on all the time is because the element coils have broken and one of the coils is touching the canister that encloses it. This creates a direct short to ground. By the way, the element has 120 volts to it all the time. It will only HEAT when 240 is applied through the centrifugal switch of the motor. Your 120 volts is shorting to ground... not enough amps to trip the circuit breaker, but enough to glow the element.

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