Question about Crane Plumbing 3755 Toilet-To-Go Metro Complete Replacement Toilet

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I have a crane 3-575 toilet leaking around the place where the water intake attaches to the bottom of the tank. I've have tried tightening the jamb nut using Teflon tape - still leakng.

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That would mean the actual tubing itself has a leak in it or has just worn out. You can replace the whole line there with a new one, I doubt it's the attachment side which is part of your toilet. You are going to want to look into a new line, just head to home depot or lowes (or any hardware store) and get one.

Thanks
Tim

Posted on Oct 05, 2010

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Toilte leaks in front have chk the lines and find no leaks. Is it the toilte


If you have found no leaks on the supply line, be sure to check the seal between the tank and the bowl. This is a common source of leaks, especially on older toilets that have seen much use.

Before you do that though, check carefully at the base of toilet to see if its possible any water is appearing from under the toilet. Your toilet sits on a seal, most often made of wax (sometimes rubber) that seals the water and waste from the toilet into the drain pipe. Normally, those seals last many years. Flush the toilet 3-4 times and observe whether any water seeps out under the toilet. Give it a few minutes (4-5) and recheck. If it is leaking, the fix is pretty simple: Shut off the water, disconnect the source water line just so you won't risk breaking it, and remove the 2-4 toilet bolts. Rock the toilet gently and pull straight up until the seal comes loose. The beeswax seals seem to work the best. Scape off as much of the old wax as you can, and set a new one. They are very inexpensive, and sell for around $2-3.00 USD. To reinstall, remove the protective lining (if present) on the wax, place the ring on the toilet, not the flange and carefully place it straight down onto the flange. Try not to make a mistake - line it up carefully. Press down on the toilet's seat area, maybe rocking yourself a little, until you can see the toilet is back in position.

Next, VERY CAREFULLY tighten the toilet's mounting bolts, a bit at a time, until secure. Over-tightening can break porcelain toilets, so be careful.
OK - either that's fixed or you've ruled it out. Next is the tank seal. Unfortunately, the only way to get to it is take the tank off. If its come to that, first go to the hardware store and secure a replacement set containing the tank seal, a new pair of brass bolts, and the bolt seals. Expect to pay around $4-5.00 USD for the set. The job is pretty easy, you use a wide flat-bladed screwdriver to loosen the (usually) brass screws in the bottom of the tank after shutting off the water and while an assistant holds the nuts from the bottom. You COULD do if yourself, but an assistant makes it easier. Carefully lift off the tank, and you'll see the seal. Remove it, and replace it with the new one, being careful to put it in the right direction, as they are usually cone-shaped. Set the tank back on, put the screws back in, using new seals/bolts (just for good luck) and reassemble. BE CAREFUL when tightening the bolts!! You can easily crack the tank if overtightened.

This is a lot of writing, but just to give you an idea, I could probably change a wax ring in 10 minutes, and the tank seal in 15 or so. Best wishes -

Jun 09, 2014 | Electronics - Others

Tip

How to reset your toilet


Things you'll need.
New toilet bowl bolts, wax ring, toilet flex supply line (if you don't plan on re-usings old) , crescent wrench, channel locks, plastic cup, newspaper, hack saw, towel, protective gloves (latex, vinyl).

First thing is to turn off the water supply to the toilet. Flush your toilet and hold down the lever to get as much water out of the tank as possible. Now take a plastic cup and scoop out the remaining water in bowl, throw into tub or sink.

Take your crescent wrench and un-bolt tank from floor. If bolts spin, I suggest just cutting them right below the nut, being careful not to scratch or break your toilet. Your toilet will break or crack if your put to much pressure on it, the most common spot for a crack is by the bolt holes. Dissconect supply line from tank holding cup below it to catch the water, if supply line is flex you can leave attached to shut-off valve, if rigid, remove from shut-off valve. Use towel to wipe up water.

Place newspaper out on floor. Stand over toilet facing the tank, your legs on either side of bowl, grab toilet right in front of tank on the bowl. pick straight up, your going to be hunched over while your carrying the toilet and walking like a penguin, just try to keep toilet level as you carry to newspaper.

Remove old seal from bottom of toilet and around toilet drain. Wear gloves and put spoils into plastic bag. Use screw driver to scrape any chunks up. Clean area. Remove old bolts from toilet ring and place new ones in. If toilet ring is broke, call a plumber. Place new wax ring on toilet ring. Make sure bolts are pointing straight up. Get toilet above bolts and lower slowly guiding bolts through toilet holes. After toilet is on, push with light steady pressure straight down to help wax ring spread out even and make new seal. If toilet is leaning towards wall as you push then compensate to have it lower level as possible. Never use a cold wax ring, have it at room temperature. After its lowered sit on toilet for a minute.

Remove any wax that has oozed out and place nuts on bolts, with washers going on first. Hand tighten both sides, then take crescent wrench and tighten down slowly alternating sides, a couple turns on one side then a couple on the other making the toilet set level and ensuring a good seal.
Do not over tighten As it gets harder to turn nut, take your index and thumb and pinch the end of the wrench. Hold with enough force to just hold the wrench, tighten until your fingers slip off. That's the best way I can describe how to tighten bolts safely with out damaging your toilet, if there is a leak you may need to tighten a bit more, use your best judgment. Use hack saw to cut-off excess of bolt,

Attach your supply line and turn water back on slowly. Test for leaks, if no leaks your good.

Do not caulk around your toilet: all that does is turn a leak into a disaster by keeping it hidden from you, Eventually your sub floor will rot and you will have a huge repair bill.

Other Tips:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5204270-slow_shower_drain_fix

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5197305-stop_water_sweat_solder_water_line

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5245506-leaking_shut_off_valve_hard_close_shut 5e9c605.gif



on Jul 06, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

I have a thetfold c2 cassette toilet and it has developed a leak from the fresh water tank,but not sure where and how to fix,or wether a newer toilet can be put in?


If the leak is from a compression joint at the water intake to the tank you can tighten it, and it may stop. you will need two spanners. do not over tighten, about 1 cm max turn or it may leak more. hold the nut on the tank side still when you do this. also check to see if the ball inside the tank is shuting off the water, it can be that this needs replaceing, but can be just ajustment of ball float nut is needed.

Oct 03, 2011 | Home

2 Answers

My toilet keeps leaking water and then fill ups on its own. Where could the leak be how do I fix it? Also I have to hold down the flush lever awhile for the toilet to completely flush. Can this be fixed ?...


If you are not getting puddles on the floor then it is probably the 'FLAP" that holds the water in the tank. It is the rubber part that is connected to your handle. Any hardware store will carry that part since it is an item that will fail, especially in hard water. It is probably the cause of both problems.

Jul 25, 2011 | Eljer & Titan Elongated Toilet Bowl

1 Answer

My eljer tank cracked and I need to install a new tank. How do I just install a new tank? The bowl is fine. Companies are trying to charge me about $300 to do this and I do not have the money. Please...


Let's assume you can buy the tank.
Installation of tank is simple.

If you can buy the eljer tank, you can buy whole new toilet with bowl and tank from home center.

We'll walk through instructions for both options.

1) How to replace tank on existing bowl.
-Tank is attached from underneath with two nuts.
-Turn off water, and hold flush valve down to drain tank
-Water connection is one nut. Follow supply line up to where it connects to tank. Loosen the nut that is around supply line just underneath tank. Pull nut downward and notice a black rubber washer that is probably stuck inside nut, or is stuck at bottom of tank. Make a note of where that nut is because it seals the water line to tank.
-You might also have a flex connector instead of supply tube. In that case, just unscrew flex connect from bottom of flush valve.
-Look beneath the tank and there are two nuts that hold tank to bowl.
-Take off these two nuts. A ratchet and socket is best tool, but you can use crescent wrench. -Notice these nuts are not exceptionally tight, but they are firm.
-Straddle the bowl and hold tank with two hands and lift up. Tank will come right up.
-Notice that on bottom of the tank: there are 2 bolts sticking out and there is a spongy rubber washer. This is the spud washer. Your new tank will have new washer. This washer seals tank to bowl so water doesn't leak when you flush.
-Notice round opening where flush water flows into bowl. Spud washer seals this hole. If you have experienced slow flushing, or if you have hard water, pour several cupfuls of CLR Calcium Lime Rust into the hole. CLR is sold at Home Depot by the gallon for $10.

-Open box to new tank. Find spud washer and fix it to bottom of new tank.
-Now a new tank is slippery, I want you to set boxes on floor nearby so if tank starts slipping, aim toward a box instead of hard tile floor.
-New tank comes with 2 new bolts, with nuts. Look at instruction sheet and see exactly how they want you to connect bolts to tank. Look carefully where they want you to put washers. These washer seal the tank when you tighten bolts.
-Now your spud washer is in place, the bolts are attached to tank and are sticking out of bottom of tank.
-Straddle bowl and lower new tank into place. Make sure spud washer lines up. Bolts line up. And flush valve lines up with supply tube. It's that easy.
-Tighten the nuts. Remember, not too tight. Toilet is not steel. And you can tighten more if there is seeping water.
-Now tank is in place. Raise nut and washer that are on supply tube and tighten nut onto bottom of flush valve. This nut is fairly tight. You might want to buy a new washer.
-If you have a flex line for the water supply, then just connect the flex line.

-Turn water ON a little bit at a time to avoid gusher if something is not correct.
-Use paper towels to check for dripping or seepage beneath tank. Tighten nuts appropriately to end seepage.
-Flush toilet and look for seepage around spud washer.
-You're done.

2) How to install new toilet.
-Remove old tank as shown above.
-Bowl is held to floor with two nuts.
-Ideal world those two nuts come right off and you lift bowl up off the floor.
-Real world, those nuts are rusted and you have to drill through side of the nut and bolt to break it off.
-Lift bowl up.
-Have cardboard ready next to toilet so you can set bowl on something. Or set it in bathtub.
-Bowl will be damp and wax ring is on bottom of bowl and will mess up the floor.
-Notice how the toilet bolts are set in the floor flange. Take photo if needed so you can put it back. It's real simple, but if you have never done this, a photo might help.
-Take putty knife and scrape wax ring off of floor flange. You want it smooth, but you don't clean it.
-New toilet comes with wax ring and bolts, but you might have to buy these at hardware store. Get wax right with gasket. The boxes are marked. Buy two of them.
-Set wax ring in center of floor flange. Gasket goes downward. Rounded side of wax ring goes up.
-Set new toilet bolts into floor flange. Keep bolts straight up using wax from the old wax ring, or from 2nd wax right you purchased.
-Keep bolts straight across from each other.
-Time to set the toilet.
-Stand in front of bowl and grab on either side at point where seat connects.
-Here's the fun part.
-Bowl has to go straight down onto wax ring so you have to be strong enough to hold tank level while aligning tank with bolts, without knocking the bolts down. Like a carnival game.
-Straddle walk toilet while holding it up high enough so it will not knock over the bolts.
-Lower bowl into place going straight down using bolts as guide. Lower a little bit and check one side for alignment and then check other side until bowl is going down and bolts fit through the holes.
-If bolt falls over or gets pushed away, straddle walk toilet back and set bolt straight up again.
-Once bowl is aligned, keep pushing straight down on bowl, and finally use your weight to push bowl to floor. Be careful to keep bowl perpendicular to wall so tank will sit straight.
-Attach bowl to floor with nuts and washers.
-Install tank as shown above.

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Jan 12, 2011 | Eljer 141-0220-00 Toilet Tank White

1 Answer

Tank won't stop filling up...overflow hose just keeps running. i lift up on blue piece and it stops, but starts again once i let go. i just got this toilet in the summer...hard to believe it has problems...


You need to replace tank valve.
See photo of the product:
http://salestores.com/fluidmas.html

Buy this product at hardware store.
Turn off water to toilet.
Flush toilet to empty water from tank.
Under the tank, the tank valve is held with two nuts.
Nut1 seals water line to the valve.
Nut2 seals valve to the tank.

Loosen nut1 and it drops down. You can use same nut for new valve, or use new one that comes with product.
Notice there is a beveled washer stuck in bottom of valve, or stuck inside nut1. Your new valve will have a new beveled washer.
Loosen nut2 and valve come loose and can be lifted out.
When you lift up valve, remaining water will run onto floor so have a pan and towel ready.
Notice on bottom of valve is a rubber washer. This washer seals the valve and tank together so water will not leak.

New valve comes with 2 washers > big one and small one. They are usually attached together, small one inside bigger one, and you have to tear them apart.

Clean opening of sand and dirt.
Supply pipe is sticking up.
Put nut1 and small beveled washer onto the supply pipe, with flat side of washer facing downward and rounded side facing up toward tank.

Put bigger washer on bottom of new valve. Flat part of washer goes to valve, beveled part of washer faces downward to tank.
Set valve in place and notice how washer covers the hole.
Put nut2 on bottom of valve and tighten. As you tighten the nut, valve will rotate inside tank. Make sure float and parts can move freely.
The valve doesn't have to be super tight to seal. Just tighten ia reasonable amount, and you can tighten more later if needed.

Now attach nut1 to bottom of new valve and this will seal supply line going into tank.
This nut has to be fairly tight.
Turn water on.
Valve has adjustments for selecting height of water inside tank.
Use paper towel on bottom of valve to check for leaks.
Leave catch pan under new valve for couple days to make sure there is no dripping.
If water is seeping, then tighten nut1 or nut2 a bit more.
Sometimes the shut off start leaking. Open shut off all the way to see if this solves problem.

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Jan 10, 2011 | Jacuzzi BK37959 White Era?? Two-Piece...

2 Answers

My Crane toilet is slowly leaking into the bowl. It is not the flapper (which I replaced) and doesn't seem to be from high water pressure. Could it be the seal?


Check your over flow pipe in the tank to see if you need to lower the water level amount in the tank. If thats not it, it could be the seal thats under your flapper between the tank and base. Simple fix just alittle time consuming

Sep 24, 2010 | Crane Plumbing 3755 Toilet-To-Go Metro...

1 Answer

The big black washer between the tank and bottom is deteriorating also the black washers on the bolts that hold the tank to the bottom are coming apart and the tank is leaking


Any hardware stores where plumbing supply is sold including lowes and home depot sell toilet seal kits including toilet to tank seals as well as toilet rebuild kits. Ask for a toilet to tank seal and washers for the bolts which might come with the large seal(check)
1. Close toilet water valve
2. Drain tank or sop with a towel and squeeze into tub until toilet is empty or bail water out with a cup.
3. Remove two tank bolts
4. clean area where old seals were
5. put tank seal on bowl and set tank lining it on top of seal.
6. Install tank bolts with new seals and tighten evenly
7. Don't over tighten or tank will crack. You probably can tighten until tank and toilet touch evenly on both sides.
8. Fill and check for leaks.

Aug 19, 2010 | Jacuzzi Home

1 Answer

We have a crane toilet that worked perfectly and now it just wont quit running and water is leaking out the side how do i fix this im tired of shutting off the water to the toilet after it fills up


It sounds like it is running constantly because of the leak. Where is the leak, at the bottom, around the plastic nuts underneath or is there a crack in the tank? Let me know.
Fix the leak and will have fixed the running problem

Jul 09, 2010 | Crane Plumbing 3755 Toilet-To-Go Metro...

1 Answer

How to attach tank to toilet without leaking


That gasket should be squashable. It's called a donut. and is meant to sit between the tank and the pan - No caulk or other sealant need be used
Place over siphon thread up to securing nut - lower tank on top of pan and secure with the nuts/wing nuts underneath
Tighten each side equally - NOT one side then the other.

Jun 13, 2009 | Pegasus Technologies Two-Piece Round...

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