Freelander engin cuts out and all dash lights go out turn key off and back on it stats as normal why

Sounds like you may have a bad starter. If I'm understanding correctly, everything is normal but the no start, engine not turning over.

Ignition switch is likely worn out making intermittent contact.

What's the color of the smoke? white, white with a blueish color, or black?

Will the engine turn over? Is there a check engine light?

That is just like a 2005 buick century, and it is normal. When you open the driver's door, the radio turns off. Does yours turn off too?

Sounds like you got a short in the ignition switch bare wire sound like to me. Depending on the model you may have to remove the steering wheel to access the key module then look for a bare wire tape it up if you can.

I would start with checking the computer for trouble codes.
Sounds like a bad connection in the dash wiring or key switch, but the trouble code might steer you in the right direction.

Replace CPS (Crankshaft positioning switch) Very common Rover problem and many times will not throw a fault code.

It sounds like this could be an immobilizer problem, if the red alarm LED is permanently on when you have the ignition is on this is defiantly the problem. You will need to get the key/fob reprogrammed to overcome this.

HI,

I have a X Reg 2.5KV6 Freelander also, same problem.
The solution for me and many other was to replace one of the speed sensors. They reside in the hub of each wheel and monitor each wheels speed, if one is rotating faster it applies the brake to that wheel (Traction control) Also controls ABS and HDC.

If one sensor fails the vehicle turns off the TC, HDS & ABS.

unfortunately to find out which sensor has failed the vehicle needs to be plugged into a diagnostic PC at a garage. I paid £40 in Stoke-on-Trent to have this done, I then knew which was the faulty sensor and replaced it.

I have a friend who also took out his faulty sensor and cleaned it (WD40 & a wire brush) and put it back in, never had the problem again, although you need to be carful doing this as they are held in place by a copper bush and need to be intact to allow re-fitment.

As a comferting note for you, I drove my V6 for 7 months with the very same fault, just remember you have no ABS or traction control though.

Another trick BUT I DO NOT ADVISE THIS ON PUBLIC ROADS is as follows. get up to 15mph in D on auto box, turn off engine turn back on again whilst still moving, it should cut engine off and kick back in again (just like bump starting a manual car) for me this reset the fault and was good for three months before it went again. But be aware, this is only somthing i tried and it worked for me. it is dangerous to do this on a public road.