Question about Briggs & Stratton Briggs Stratton Intek V - Twin Vertical Ohv Engine with Electric Start 22 Hp, 1" X 3 5/32" Shaft, ModelNo. 44K777 - 0027 - E1

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I had to replace my governor gear, it shattered in 9 pieces for I don't know why, but i replaced it. The problem I am having is I put it together lined up the dots on the cam and crank gears for the timing. Reassembled and started the tracker, it ran fairly good but needed a slight tweak so I did and it reacted as if I gave it a huge tweak, but the deal is, I can't get it to idle right and now I have to over choke it and set the governor to the lowest idle to where it wants to die. another strange thing is when I have the blade deck running the tracker runs GREAT but when i disengage the deck the engine runs away. IS it the timing and do I need to place the dots on the gears so they are opposite to each other?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 21 hp B&S twin-v ohv , engine loading up when blades are engaged

Sounds like the blades are dull. HAve them sharpened

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

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SOURCE: B&S engine backfires, runs better with choke 1/2 out under load??

Check your rockers inside valve covers. They some time work loose. If they are loose the push rod will fall off rocker and cause the problem.

Posted on May 31, 2009

  • 32 Answers

SOURCE: 22 hp Briggs Intek will not run at full speed without choke on

sounds like you sucked up dirt in the carb needs to be taken off and cleaned

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

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SOURCE: Briggs and Stratton 20hp twin cylinder runs only with full choke

Had one on my saw mill had this problem as well Try pulling bowl off bottom of carby as the float can get **** with old fuel especially ethanol fuels as they attract water bowl is normally held on with one center screw on bottom of carby. Note always turn fuel off and let engine run out of fuel as this stops goop from building up in carby

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

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SOURCE: hard to start lawn tractor

Shouldn't need adjustment for 2200'. If engine is cold, always start with full choke. Perhaps the battery is defective (or just old) and not supplying enough current for hot spark while cranking. Make sure fully charged before attempting to start.

I am sure there is support/service available from Sears for a new mower.

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 13, 2010

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My 1991dodge dakota


Replace the governor. Remove the pan, on the passenger side of the transmission. Just replace both solenoids And block. Comes as one piece.

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I don't know how you thought he could fix that leak when the trans has to come out? Take it to a transmission shop and stop guessing, and replacing perfectly good parts. Have the trans shop replace the rear seal while the trans is out.

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Sometimes the governor gear inside the engine breaks and you have to replace it. Did you try to adjust the governor by putting the throttle full and unloosen the screw on the governor arm and push the governor piece the same direction as the throttle opens and tighten the screw.

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I have a 1979 350 tran that sliped out of drive at 110 kph and only have low now can you give me a hint on wich way to start with it


The cause for that could be a low transmission fluid level, a faulty vacuum modulator or no vacuum to the vacuum modulator, A faulty front pump assembly or torque converter, a loose valve body or a blown out valve body gasket, the forward or direct clutch pack has lost line pressure to the clutch pack (could be a plugged up transmission filter) or the frictions are burned up in that clutch pack, or the governor has malfunctioned, usually due to missing or stuck governor weights, or a stuck valve inside of the governor, a small plugged up line filter inside the governor fluid channel under the valve body, and most commonly because of a plastic drive gear at the end of the governor that can crack apart or will have sheared off teeth on the drive gear.

Check the transmission fluid level and inspect the vacuum line to the vacuum modulator for any damage and there should be full intake manifold vacuum to the vacuum modulator. Remove the vacuum line at the vacuum modulator and if transmission fluid drips from out of the vacuum line then the vacuum modulator is faulty and should be replaced to eliminate it as the problem, however there might still be a problem with the governor, the valve body, the forward clutch pack, or the torque converter and front pump assembly.

The valve body can be tightened down and the transmission fluid filter can be replaced, and the valve body and the spacer plate gaskets can be carefully replaced, and also inspect for a small inline screen filter inside of the governor fluid feed chanel if the valve body is removed. (there will be check-balls only experienced mechanics should attempt it).

The torque converter, the front pump assembly, and the forward clutch pack can only be repaired by removing the transmission and except for the torque converter dis-assembling the transmission.

The governor can be removed without too much difficulty and the plastic drive gear should be inspected for any damage to the teeth on the governor drive gear and also the worm gear on the output shaft inside of the governor housing that drives the governor gear. Also check the governor or for any missing or stuck weights on the governor or for a stuck valve inside of the governor.

To remove the governor from the transmission remove the clip over the governor cover and then pry the governor cover off, then the governor will pull straight out of the governor housing. (The transmission cross-member might have to be removed on some vehicles to lower the transmission enough to remove the governor)

Here are some images to help assist you inspect the governor, and let me know if you require any further assistance.




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2 Answers

My 1993 nissan sentra automatic stuck on first gear and it doesn't shift to the rest of gears. Help me please.


Your governor gear is either stripped or destroyed. It's extremely easy as far as labor, beginner skill level (if you have a knowledgeable person or book/article to reference) but finding the part is a headache. Get the part before you do anything else. It's a small plastic gear (stock) and I've heard that there's a brass one available, but haven't found it yet. From the dealership, the gear alone is about $40. The governor assembly is about $200. There's 99% chance you only need the gear. I'll give you a basic walk-through of how to check, but I would strongly advise not to proceed until you have at least the gear in-hand. Also, make sure the gear is correct.

**IMPERATIVE**
The 4-speed transmission has a 16 spline gear that is about an inch and a half long, whereas the 3-speed transmission has a 19 spline gear that is about 2.5 inches long. They are NOT interchangeable.

First, get everything out of the way. Disconnect and remove your battery. There is a small fusebox bolted to the battery tray. Remove the two nuts holding this on, and separate it from the battery tray, letting it hang behind the radiator. Remove the battery tray. The air box is going to have to come out as well, so you have room to see and work. Easiest way to do this is to remove all of the hoses as far from the airbox as possible, leaving them attached to the airbox so it all comes out as one piece. There's a small vacuum line just out-of-sight, that plugs into the silencer, feel around on the firewall side, and simply unplug it. Once all of this is safely out of the way, it's time to get down to business.

In your newly-cleared work area, on the top of the transmission closer to the firewall than to you, you'll see what looks like either a black plastic, or silver (but dirty) metal, 'cap'. There is a snap-ring set just inside the ridge around the top of this, with a seal ring under it. Pry this snap-ring out carefully, unless you intend to replace it. With that out of the way, the seal ring will come right up. Using a large vice grip, or a large pair of water pump pliers, grip the cap and work it out. There's an o-ring around the bottom of this, so it make take a little back-and-forth to get it all the way out. Once you have gotten that off, there is what looks like a complex metal block underneath. This is your governor assembly, and it's actually about 10 inches long. To reiterate, this entire assembly should be around $200 from a dealership. You should be able to pull this outwith minimal effort, and the bottom is hardened plastic, so be as gentle as possible. Once removed, inspect the plastic gear on the bottom. If it's chewed up but otherwise intact, replace it and you're okay. If it's shattered and/or obviously missing pieces (which has been the case in several of the rebuilds I've done), you'll have to drain at least a quart of fluid to see into the bottom of the hole where the governor sits, and make sure there are no pieces floating around in there. I had to use a dentist's pick to get the pieces out. If you are going to replace the entire governor assembly, remove the old one and skip the next paragraph.

If you want to save a nice chunk of money, and just replace the gear:
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Slide the new (or newly rebuilt) governor gear assembly back into the transmission, making sure it seats flush. Replace the cap you removed, the seal ring, then the snap-ring. Put the airbox back in, ensuring all of the hoses and clamps are back in place - especially that pesky one hidden behind the silencer box. Replace your battery tray, the fusebox thereto attached, and your battery and hold-down. Replace any transmission fluid you had to drain, start the car and let it run for 5-10 minutes to warm up the fluid. With your foot on the brake, manually shift it through all the gears to ensure the fluid gets into all of those little spaces. Put it back in park, turn the car off, check the fluid again, and add as needed.

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1 Answer

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