Question about Kenmore Kitchen Ranges

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I have a Kenmore Stove and the bottom (bake) element does not heat up. The top Element is fine. I have replaced the bottom element and checked the fuses and they seem fine. Could it be a control panel that is faulty?

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  • chrish25 Jun 03, 2008

    The oven is a Kenmore model # C970-65223. Is this a common issue with these appliances? Is it a do-it-yourselfer project to replace the part? if so, where is a good place to locate the part? Sears?

  • chrish25 Jun 03, 2008

    Correction, model# C970-652231

  • chrish25 Jun 08, 2008

    The model # seems to be correct (see photo) The only other number I can find is the Sears # 223 665 223 and it seems they do not have info on this model. It was purchased in 2001. Some photos of the stove, model# sticker and controls:

  • chrish25 Jun 09, 2008

    Thanks. I will look into that. I appreciate all your help, you have definitely pointed me in the right direction. I will try to let you know how I make out.

  • chrish25 Jun 14, 2008

    I was able to get and install a replacement part for Electronic Oven Control (EOC) and it was a quick/easy change as you mentioned. The part came with the overlay pad which was nice. Unfortunately it seems that is NOT the problem because there is still no heat on the bottom (bake element). Any other suggestions??? I have read/heard that the thermostat could be the problem, but I question it because the oven will heat to the desired temperature (with only the one element heating) and continue to regulate that temperature.

  • chrish25 Jun 14, 2008

    Just for fun I set the stove to broil and to my surprise the bottom element is glowing red hot! At least I know there is power getting to both elements and the new element actually heats. The top element heats in BAKE mode... (sounds backward to me???) I can't recall if I tried broil with the old EOC, and now I'm not sure if I am any closer to a solution with the replacement EOC. Does any of this get us closer to the solution? Are there other test I should do? Could I have crossed wires???

  • chrish25 Jun 26, 2008

    Thanks again jsrock. I double checked the wires and even switched them
    to see if it would make a difference and had the same results. I used
    the photo to make sure it was the exact same connection. I also
    re-installed the old EOC to see if the elements would heat up on broil
    and the bottom (bake) element did heat up (only on broil). It seems the
    problem must be elsewhere? Could there be a thermostat, wire or sensor
    that is faulty? Do you have any other suggestions. Is it time I make a
    service/repair call? New stove?

  • chrish25 Jun 26, 2008

    I am extremely thankful for your help!!! You have been awesome (and more important, very patient and prompt) THE STOVE WORKS!!! I'm almost embarrassed to post this...You are likely going to laugh at the final solution and might even question whether you want to rethink insulting my intelligence :D As it turns out (after checking the wires again and still being puzzled) I realized all the settings on the oven dial were giving opposite results... This was apparent when I noticed the "bake time" setting seemed to turn the oven OFF! Hence, Broil was Bake and Bake-Time was OFF. So you likely see where I am heading with this... It turns out someone must have put the knob to the oven dial on upside down. Geesh and I was so close to buying a brand new stove or paying hundreds in service costs. Please feel free to add this to your list of "lame ducks." I know I am going to have a few good laughs at my own expense. I'd rather that than the hundreds of $$ it could have cost me. "Sometimes it is the simplest things that are the hardest to find." Once again thank you so much for all you help and time.

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    element heat control malfunctioning and stay on 'highh'

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You could very well have an Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board problem. There two separate circuits that control the oven BAKE and BROIL functions. If you have replaced the BAKE element, and have ensured it connected properly, the only other component that controls that function, is the EOC. If you post back with your complete model number, I can double check to make sure. The model number will be located on a nameplate somewhere around the oven door opening or lower drawer opening. The reason I need to confirm is because some ranges have a separate relay control board.

Posted on May 28, 2008

  • 4 more comments 
  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jun 03, 2008

    Are you sure the model number is correct? I cannot find a cross reference for the number you provided. Double check the nameplate data (located around the oven door, or lower drawer opening) to be sure.



    To answer your question...Yes, this is a pretty straight forward repair that anyone can do. This will save you in having to pay for labor charges. The EOC is usually held in place by a few mounting screws. You will need to remove the rear panel of the range to access it. Make sure you UNPLUG the range before attempting any repairs inside the control panel. The wiring is normally printed on the circuit car, but sometimes it is not. Make sure you mark all wires and where they go, to make reinstalling easier. If the EOC does not come with a new overlay (number/dispay pad) you will need to carefully peel the old one off the failed circuit card and install it on the new one. They can be reused.



    Searspartsdirect.com is great place to start in locating your part. Just type in your model number and follow the prompts on the next page. There are helpful part locator drawings to assist you as well. Repairclinic.com is another site I have used and have been pleased with their service. The two sites have competitive pricing, so it may help you to look at both of them for the best price.



    Double check that model number, though. Let me know if you need further advice.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jun 09, 2008

    Do you live in Canada? Your range was manufactured by Kelvinator of Canada. That's why I'm having a hard time locating parts information for it. I found a Sears parts inquiry for Canada, but unfortunately, it requires you to fill out a form and post an inquiry instead of allowing you to browse their parts index.



    http://www5.sears.ca/e/hc/partsinquiry.s...



    There is the toll free number posted on the site that you can also call to see if they can lead you in the right direction. My apologies for not being able to offer you better guidance. I'm having difficulty tracking this model number. I tried nearly a dozen different appliance parts websites with no luck. The best advice I can give you is to try the Sears Canada website I linked you to, or call the toll free number to see if they can offer you a cross reference part number for your range.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jun 16, 2008

    It sounds like you have your BAKE and BROIL wires crossed chrish. Turn off the power and look at the wires on the EOC. They should be marked for BAKE and BROIL on the card. It should be a simple process of swapping the wires on the terminals on the card.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jun 26, 2008

    A thermostat usually causes oven heating problems or temperature regulation issues. I doubt it would cause the symptoms you've described. It doesn't make sense to me that you have BOTH elements working, but with the wrong controls with the new EOC. When you switch the leads, the symptoms DON'T change? Am I getting that right? I just don't see how that is possible. It still sounds like you have some wires crossed somewhere. When you re-installed the old EOC, your original symptoms came back. There's something going on with the control circuits if you can get the symptoms to change like that. Are the boards configured the same? Did you trace the wire leads from the elements to the board to ensure they are connected where they are supposed to be? I'm not trying to insult your intelligence. I just want you to be sure. I admire your diligence in staying with this problem, but I'm sorry I haven't been able to get you past this point.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jun 26, 2008

    Nope...I don't have a list of "lame ducks". I've learned not to insult individuals that try, because I'm guilty of some real knuckle head moments myself (not referring to YOU as a knuckle head). I'm glad you stayed with it and managed to figure this out on your own. Even though it may have caused you a little embarrassment, you still managed to save yourself a hefty service call. You would have really hated yourself had the repairman showed and fixed a simple problem you inadvertently caused, then promptly charged you a whopping repair bill. You did an excellent job, by my book. Good Job!

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jun 26, 2008

    Nope...I don't have a list of "lame ducks". I've learned not to insult individuals that try, because I'm guilty of some real knuckle head moments myself (not referring to YOU as a knuckle head). I'm glad you stayed with it and managed to figure this out on your own. Even though it may have caused you a little embarrassment, you still managed to save yourself a hefty service call. You would have really hated yourself had the repairman showed and fixed a simple problem you inadvertently caused, then promptly charged you a whopping repair bill. You did an excellent job, by my book. Good Job!

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