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My furnace has been making a grinding noise the oil level is full but it still makes the noise. Inside my armstrong pump are 4 springs 2 are attached and two are not. The two that are not seem to be grinding on the sides.

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Hello You have a broken coupling in the circulator.They sell replacenents at homedepot: ect.You will need a 1/8"allen key(wrench) & a 7/16"wrench to change it out.Ask for the coupling for a B&G 100 circulator.

Posted on Oct 05, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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it should be on the inside of the door look for flash codes there is no code book you just have to know post code and what it says on the door and I can help

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Check the oil level ,if need be pump some LM grease into the gearbox about a GREASE GUN FULL will do this will seal up any leaks once its warm and melts in a bit ,the noise was the lay shaft bearings or the drive gear shaft bearings to the crownwheel ,faily common on peugeots and citreons but make sure you check the level use EP90

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Grinding noise while driving, a little pressure to a right turn, and the grinding noise is gone


Check the fluid level in your power steering pump reservoir. The cap on the reservoir also has a dipstick attached so you can easily read the level. If the reservoir is full, have the rack and pinion checked.

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I just want to know what could be causing my oil light to come on when my oil is full


Could be problems:
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Oil light keeps flashing but the oil is good


Oil light is for pressure, not level. A flashing oil light means your oil pressure is low. If you have a normal oil level, and the car is not making any grinding or knocking noises from inside the engine, you may have a bad oil pressure sensor.

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1 Answer

Kenmore commercial washer making grinding noise


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.82403140

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6

I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.

Within the transmission are a set of plastic cams that raise the agitator gear when moving into the spin cycle. If the cams are worn, the gear won't lift high enough (about 1/18") and the gears will grind.

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.

Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It is a bit of a messy job but much ($10 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.

Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.

While you've got the motor and transmission out, you should check the Motor couplers for wear.


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MTD 42 inch hydrostatic drive lawnmower


1...first and foremost check the fluid level and top off with mobil 1 full synthetic 20w50 oil,
2...check the the engine pulley for wear
3...check idler arm spring tention.
inside yout transmission is a center pump section and swash plates and a set of 6-8 pistons , if dirt is allowed into the transmission it causes severe wear to these parts

my recomendation would be to dissasemble the transmission and inspect the pump center section and swash plates for wear....look for tiny scratches on the bearing surfaces, if it is worn then replace parts as needed. these worn parts will cause the transmission to "growl" or as you say "grind"

Nov 24, 2009 | Mtd Garden

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I'm just a girl. 99 suzuki esteem 1.8L wagon wont shift into 2nd. grinding type noise heard in first gear when accelerating from takeoff then wont shift into 2nd at all. no problem or noise noted when...


Did you check the oil level inside the gear box? Most people never service the car, so this part gets neglected. if it ran out of oil, you probaply broke it(a big repair bill).
Try putting oil(probably 90w gear oil;check a manual,internet to make sure;if you make a mistake dont worry any oil is better than NO oil).
Check the differential fluid level too;same thing will happen if you neglect doing this.

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