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simple remove the two phillips head screws at the bottom of the front panel lift up from the bottom and remove the front panel don't forget to unplug the two wires that go to the door switch and set the front panel aside remove the 4 5/16 inch screws that hold the bulk head on remove the front bulk head and set it aside take out your old belt ,put your new belt around the tube and run it around your spring loaded tension roller and around the motor pulley reassemble the dryer and test thats it
in some models you do it from the front the drum sits on 2 bogie wheels and the belt sits behind ,lift drum off bogie wheels and thread belt around pulley it should be on a spring tensioner and it allows you to swing pulley up or down try to thread belt around drum and replace drum back on bogie wheels.... in some dryers you may need to thread belt on drum and then onto pulley good luck
Most of the time these models have screws in the back of the machine on the top lid. You'll need to get over behind the dryer to access this panel. You'll need a "star" type screwdriver (most come in a set). Remove the top lid to expose the drum. The belt will run around the drum and down around the safety cut out switch. This switch is most likely a teflon or plastic wheel that the belt loops around. After installing the belt, replace all of the screws and you're good to go!
If the blower is working, then it's most likely the belt, a belt pulley or a tensioner spring. Open the dryer, it will power off, and then spin the drum by hand. If it moves with little resistance, it's your belt.
The squeak may be coming from the drum rollers, check them to see if they need lubrication.
I recommend that you use a good grade of machine oil to lube them such as 3 in One oil. Lube them at the shaft of the roller. Also check the rollers to see if they have flat spots on them, if they do then they will need to be replaced.
Recheck your location of the idler arm bracket with pulley to see that you have it in the right location and that the spring is also in the right location. Look for wear spots on the frame and idler arm and match them up.
I hope this helps
Replace the drum seal. To do this you need to get under the machine and start removing the pieces, IE pulley, clutch, brake. Until you get to the main bearing and the seeal. At the same time check to make sure that the bearing is still good since the seal has blown
There are many variables! Every year thousands of people die trying to repair electrical appliances them selves!
You are worth more than that! Bless you!
Only a trained laundry tech can make the electronic diagnoses.
Below I referred you to a great service nation wide! A&E Factory Service A&E has schedulers available to take appointments 24/7 And they do warranty work too, for most manufactures! 1(800) 905-9505 near me they only charge $75 service call which is reasonable in today s market!
Unfortunely, another point to consider!! How old is the appliance?
If the appliance is 10 years old or more you it may not be advisable to put good money into bad! New appliances are so much more efficient today that they can save you a lot of money in energy!!!! Water,Electric and detergent! And put money back in your pocket! The new appliance will pay for itself in only a few years!
You will be fine Bless You ngafm1 *****PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF*****
does this drum go round, if not replace the capacitor which in most models is fastened to the main motor, if this doesn't cure the fault you could be looking at a replacement motor, assuming you have checked for any jamming of the drum, does it rotate be hand as well
a working motor will just buzz if the drum is jammed
hope i have helped, if so please rate me well