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Get icy around the evaporator coil - True Freezer TG2F-2S

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  • True Master
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Is it ice or just a very heavy frost. This info does make a difference in diagnosing.

Posted on Oct 16, 2010

  • John Ansari Oct 16, 2010

    This freezer get icy around the evaporator coil.

  • Dennis Boxerman Oct 22, 2010

    Be sure the unit goes into a defrost cycle at least 4 times a day for at least 20 minutes. During the defrost cycle, the evap fans and compressor stop running and electric heaters come on in the evap area. Start here and let me know.

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1 Answer

My upright freezer get icy all the time.


Check the rubber seal around the door edge is correctly fitted.

If you need to adjust the hinges and level your freezer

Clean the seal and then smear a small quantity of vasaline over the seal.

If it keeps icing, you may have to replace the seal

Hope it helps

Feb 03, 2016 | Freezers

1 Answer

The unit beeps and temperature flucuates


this could be an issue with the defrost cycle. if ice build up accumulates the on the inside coil (evaporator), it restricts the air flow and you get alarms for being out of temp. usual signs are ice build up around the coil area. look for that first. be sure the door closes and seals too.

Jun 10, 2015 | Turbo Air Freezers

1 Answer

My up right freezer in frosing at top inside part of the unit.


Frosting on evaporator coil should be evenly distributed all over the coil. If the frosting only appears up on the top around where the refrigeration line enters then the gas pressure is too low - if you add refrigerant the frosting will move down to cover the bottom coils also.

Nov 26, 2013 | Kenmore 20.3 cu. ft. / 575 liter Upright...

1 Answer

My maytag MFI2569YEB ice cubes are melting around the coil in the tray. What could be wrong?


if you are talking about the bucket the cubes go into, most likely you do not use a lot of ice. the ice isn't melting, it's evaporating. usually winds up in a big clump at the bottom.

Oct 31, 2013 | Maytag Freezers

1 Answer

MY wife left the door open just a little bit and the temperature came up to around fifty. When I discovered it I closed the door but the freezer didn't come back on. What is the problem


If the door is left open for a long period of time, this will cause your evaporator coil to freeze into a block of ice. You will need to turn off and defrost the coil, for quicker results you can use a hair dryer for this. Once the coil is completely defrosted, turn on and monitor.

Sep 14, 2011 | Frigidaire Freezers

1 Answer

Kenmore Freezer 106.727581: The freezer ices up and the temp goes up to 34 degrees. If I manually defrost it, it goes to 5 below zero in about 6 hours. How can I determine which of the below need to be...


The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater. To determine if the defrost heater is burned out, watch this part testing video

Aug 21, 2011 | Kenmore Freezers

1 Answer

Unit get hot on side


Freezers have their condenser coils in the outside, near the sides and all wrapped around. This part gets warm/hot during operation. The evaporator coils is around the inside wall, right next to the food. This coil gets cold when the freezer runs. It's a fairly efficient way to route these coils, and they don't need to have a fan this way.

So this is normal.

Oct 04, 2009 | Frigidaire Freezers

2 Answers

I have a mr.freeze sa-12863 that is leaking water under the machine.help


If the water is actually coming from under the ice maker, I can't help you.
However, I just discovered water leaking from around the top of the lid on mine. I took the lid off [by first removing both side panels and then the screws for the top] and discovered that there is a metal plate under the water spout that causes water to splash up around the lid. In mine, this led to water running out aall the way around the lid, down the sides, and all over the counter. You can't remove the spout without messing up the water level sensor, but I bent the plate a bit flatter and no longer have splashing water everywhere.

Aug 21, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

Freezer wont freeze, compressor always running, refrigerator not cold


HI,

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Jul 03, 2009 | Traulsen Freezer Refrigeration 4 - 1/2...

1 Answer

Freezer alarm


nana,
Your defrost elements are not working or the inlet to the evaporator tray is clogged, if you haven't gotten iny icy water build-up in the bottom of the fridge you will soon. This may require a service call.
randy320sgi

Jan 16, 2009 | Kenmore 20.3 cu. ft. / 575 liter Upright...

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