Question about GE GSS25SGMBS Side by Side Refrigerator

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GE GSS25QGMDBB; SD245704 doesn't defrost. Heat element checks good. Clixon style thermostat closed at room temp (does it open on temperature drop?) and has been replaced previously by someone else. Also has what appears to be a thermistor next to thermostat. From internet comments it appears there have been an inordinate number of problems with mother boards on GE refrigerators and a recall. Is there any recall for this refrigerator. What is the test procedure for defrost on these refrigerators? What about a repair manual?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE Profile Arctic Side x Side Refrigerator PSC23MGNA

My GE Profile is 1.5 yrs old and I have the same problem. I came home to find all my food spoiled! It seems many GEs have had this problem, I agree GE should do something, there are expensive units.

Posted on Apr 25, 2008

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: How do you replace the mother board on the GE refrigerator?

Hi,
If the diagnosis is correct (and I believe it is) your part number is correct and can be purchased for about $130.00 online or at your local appliance parts retailer. It is very easy to replace.

{{{UNPLUG THE FRIDGE!}}}

Pull the fridge out away from the wall so you can get behind it. As you're looking at the back of the fridge, you'll see a panel at the top left. You can't miss it. It has about 15 screws holding it in place. Remove these (use a 1/4" nut driver or socket) then remove the panel.

Now if you look closely at the board and take note of the connectors, you'll see that it's fool-proof... which means that after you take them off, you can NOT get it wrong when you put them on the new board. <-- Now THAT'S good news, huh?

OK, you'll see 3 connectors on one end of the board and they are all white. You'll see 2 connectors at the opposite end, one is white and the other is blue. Remove the 3 white connectors first, leave the other 2 for last.

Next, look closely at the board again... you'll see 4 white plastic tabs sticking through the board. These are the stand-off clips that hold it in place. Look very closely and you'll see that these clips have a "locking" tab on them. Use the tip of a knife to push the tab in while pulling out on the corresponding section of the board. Do this on all 4 corners and the board is out.

Now you should still have the 2 remaining wire connectors (the blue one and the white one) still on the board, remove them now. Pull out your new board, install the 2 connectors (blue and white) first then mount the new board onto the plastic stand-off clips, then connect your 3 remaining white wires connectors. After that is done, plug in the machine for test. You should hear the compressor start within 5 seconds or so.

When you re-install the aluminum cover, make sure that you connect that "flying" green ground wire to one of the screws used for the panel. It's necessary.

All in all, about a 20 minute job.

Hope this helps!
SG

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

  • 358 Answers

SOURCE: Testing if Fault is Comming From Defrost Heater

You check for continuity at each end of each heater.If is ok you have a bad defrost timer or abad defrost terminator(it 'll close when reaches about 30 degrees).

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: Defrost Heater or Main Control Board, Which one is at fault?

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.

Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.

The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: GE PROFILE REFRIGERATOR MOTHER BOARD PROBLEMS

Go into the diagnostic mode on your touch display .
1) . Press any button on the display 1 time except the temp adjust buttons.
2) Press the temp up and down on both the freezer AND refrig (all 4 at the same time)
3) when 0's show , release the buttons and press any button except for the temp adjust buttons .
4) NOW , fress the temp adjust buttons until the freezer side displays 0 and the refrig side displays 7 . 0 and 7 is for the thermistors test .
5) After 0 and 7 display , press any button again except temp adjust , and this will start the thermistor check .
6) You will have 7 thermistor tests , indicated on the refrig display , starting at 1 , then 2 then .......
7) The feezer display will tell for the corresponding thermistor , indicated by the refrig display , if the thermistor p = pass , s = short , b = bad (replace board)

After determining if or which thermistor is bad , then adjust the display to 1 on freezer display and 6 on the refrig display . This ends the testing procedure and resets the refrig back to normal .

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

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2 Answers

Defroster not working


Hello Kim Wiederman,

Without your Make/Model ... (would be wonderful)
I can only wax on in vague generalities... but
I love refrigerators... and I reasonably good
with my vagueness... & generalities.

Meh... 95% (gross generality) of all refrigerator
have three (3) basic elements that comprise
the DEFROST Circuit

1. Defrost TIMER (or control board (PCB)).
2. Defrost thermostat (keeps HEATER @ room temp (opens)).
3. HEATER Element (Usu: at bottom of EVAPORATOR)

Defrost timers... easy to detect issues: Generally WHITE
in color... Lend themselves EASILY to the mark of a
SHARPIE (fine point permanent marker).
Put a DOT on the center (armature) and one
IMMEDIATELY next to it on the body of the timer...
As motion is detected by those DOTs moving apart
you can move on to the Defrost Thermostat.
Modern units have PCB power CONTROL board
that FAIL as good as MECHANICAL TIMERS...
trouble is... pack replacement is the ONLY real test
(and they are expensive).

Defrost Thermostat...
Situated at the TOP of the EVAPORATOR it is designed to OPEN the HEATER circuit when the defrosting unit reaches room temperature (conducts at freezing , opens near room temp)...

Protects soft (impressionable) plastics.

HEATER Element.
Runs from line voltage... easy to test continuity
(works or not).

Be careful... TAKE LOTS of useable pictures
BEFORE disconnecting anything/everything...

If you pull all the wires off and have no idea how to put them back... you will be at the TOTAL MERCY of the SEARS
repair clowns (aka Samsonite Gorillas) ...

((sorry real Gorillas))

appliancepartspros
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Partsselect
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Apr 07, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Diagnosed defroster system


Hello Kim Wiederman,

Without your Make/Model ... (would be wonderful)
I can only wax on... in vague generalities... but
I love refrigerators... and I am reasonably good
with my vagueness... & generalities.

Meh... 95% (gross generality) of all refrigerator
have three (3) basic elements that comprise
the DEFROST Circuit

1. Defrost TIMER (or control board (PCB)).
2. Defrost thermostat (keeps HEATER @ room temp (opens)).
3. HEATER Element (Usu: at bottom of EVAPORATOR)

Defrost timers... easy to detect issues: Generally WHITE
in color... Lend themselves EASILY to the mark of a
SHARPIE (fine point permanent marker).
Put a DOT on the center (armature) and one
IMMEDIATELY next to it on the body of the timer...
As motion is detected by those DOTs moving apart
you can move on to the Defrost Thermostat.
Modern units have PCB power CONTROL board
that FAIL as good as MECHANICAL TIMERS...
trouble is... pack replacement is the ONLY real test
(and they are expensive).

Defrost Thermostat...
Situated at the TOP of the EVAPORATOR it is designed to OPEN the HEATER circuit when the defrosting unit reaches room temperature (conducts at freezing , opens near room temp)...

Protects soft (impressionable) plastics.

HEATER Element.
Runs from line voltage... easy to test continuity
(works or not).

Be careful... TAKE LOTS of useable pictures
BEFORE disconnecting anything/everything...

If you pull all the wires off and have no idea how to put them back... you will be at the TOTAL MERCY of the SEARS
repair clowns (aka Samsonite Gorillas) ...

((sorry real Gorillas))

appliancepartspros
Search Over 2 1 Million Appliance Parts

Partsselect
PartSelect Appliance Parts and Repair Help

Repairclinic
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Searspartsdirect (yuk (in my LESS than humble opinion))
Go to Bing homepage

Apr 07, 2017 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

What causes the top 2/3 of the evaporator coils to get frozen over, but leaves the bottom 1/3 clear of any frost?


no the defrost thermostat only need be checked at cold temp and at room or reg temp it should not show any continuity have u checks ur heating element out as well and defrost timer ? I still suspect a faulty thermistor the freezer has more than one thermistor?
26147648-vyifhli2mlxr0th2vusjyprz-3-0.jpg

26147648-vyifhli2mlxr0th2vusjyprz-3-2.jpg

26147648-vyifhli2mlxr0th2vusjyprz-3-5.jpg

26147648-vyifhli2mlxr0th2vusjyprz-3-9.jpg

Mar 31, 2016 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Evaporator freezing up


defrost is usually controlled by is defrost timer,

Sep 12, 2014 | GE Monogram ZIRS36NM 36'' Stainless All...

1 Answer

GE Model GSS25JFMWW, started with the ice maker not working, then the water doesn't work half the time. Now the freezer and Fridge both stop working, and out of nowhere the will start again after a couple...


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

The ice-maker not working was a sign that the freezer temps were rising above 14 - 16 deg F. There ice-maker has an internal thermostat that activates the harvest cycle when the temps reach around 15 deg F. If the freezer is warming up it will never make ice.

What is most likely causing the recent symptoms of the unit shutting of and not stating for a long period is either an intermittent defrost thermostat (
The unit has a timed defrost cycle to START the cycle but there is a 60 deg F thermostat that opens to terminate the defrost cycle. If the defrost heater does not work the unit has to slowly warm up toward room temp without heat to reach 60 deg F for the defrost cycle to terminate. This can take a very long time if the freezer is more than 50% full as the contents will keep the temp below 60 deg F for an extended period.

I suspect you have a defrost element failure. Item 230 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=210406&diagram_id=22357329#d22357329

You should read resistance across the defrost heating element. No resistance = open element.


There is the very very remote possibility that there is a problem with the main board. Item 801 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=210406&diagram_id=22357329#d22357329
Since the unit works once defrosted I doubt the main board has failed.

There is a thermistor that is item 241 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=210406&diagram_id=22357332#d22357332 that can possibly cause the problem.

Thermistor Image:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/PartImage.aspx?imgid=Z3BqLjBfbXNfNTIwMDFYNTVSVy9IRUcvc290b2hwdHJhcC8%3d

If the defrost heating element is good then this would be suspect #2.

I hate to use someone elses material in a response but this one is so good that it is a must read:
http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/refrigerator-thermistor.html

Bottom line... I still think you have a defrost heating element problem at this time.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly





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Jan 27, 2011 | GE GSS25JF Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

I have an older GE Profile side by side not defrosting, have continuity in element when warmed thermostat kicks off and I have replaced the timer, still not defrosting. Model #THP21PBSMWW S/N SL238841


Need to check and see if the element is heating up when it goes into defrost. If the thermostat is bad it will not go into defrost. I purchased a new heating element for my GE and it came with the element and thermostat together. Also make sure the fan is running in the freezer this moves the heat through the coil as well as the cold temp when in freeze mode.

Nov 15, 2009 | GE Profile 26.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

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I have a Kenmore Dryer mod. 96281100 which runs but no heat. I tested power input at 240v, thernal fuse closed, thermal hi temp closed, element closed and not grounding, thermostat cut-off closed, and...


If you have 240 VAC across the element, but the element is not heating, then you have a bad element. If you don't have 240 VAC at the element, then work your way back with the voltmeter to find where the voltage is dropping

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Temperature varies 13 degrees around setpoint on aux heat


I don't have the book for this particular unit but, check the sequencers that control the electric heat mode, as the regulator heat pump works good. The part may have a time or temperature delay that is too long for you. Also if it has a remote thermostat, check the heat anticipate setting. You will have to check the installation manuel, but its usually .6 to .8, but I don't think that is the problem.

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