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How do you remove the sprocket and clutch assembly

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Article: Fixing a Broken Chainsaw

Having a broken chainsaw is an inconvenience. Having one that works when you need it is important! Chainsaws are useful tools for tree pruning, cutting firewood, and carpentry projects, but are not so useful if not properly maintained. It can also cost a great deal of money to get a broken chainsaw repaired. You can save a lot of time and money by repairing it yourself. For chainsaw repair you will need a blanket or large cloth, a chainsaw tightening tool, files to sharpen the blades, and any necessary replacement parts.

My Chainsaw's Engine Does Not Start

If the engine will start at all, you might have a bad starter switch. Check to see that all connections to the starter switch are secure. Is the power cord cut or broken? Check to make sure that you have a proper power line connection. If all checks out except for the switch, go ahead and replace it. You may want to consider whether you are using the appropriate fuel mixture.

My Chainsaw Smokes

If there is smoke coming from the chain, it could be an indication that there is not enough lubrication. Without the proper lubrication, the chain and chain bar can become seriously damaged. Make sure there is oil in the reservoir. When you start the saw, the automatic oil pump should lubricate the chain and bar. To see if this is a problem, hold the saw tip over a light-colored surface, hit the throttle and look for oil spatters on the chain bar. If you see no oil splatters, turn the saw off. Remove the chain guide bar and see if the oil discharge slots are clogged with sawdust. Clean out the sawdust and restart the saw to check lubrication again.


The Chain Skips or Jumps

If the chain skips or jumps during operation, check the engine drive sprocket to make sure it is not worn. If you have a worn sprocket it will not allow the chain to sit properly. Also, check to make sure the chain tension is set correctly. Setting the chain tension is a part of continuous operation. However, a dull or damaged chain may also cause the skipping and jumping.

My Chainsaw Isn't Cutting Properly

If the saw cuts at the wrong angle or shoots out a lot of sawdust, you probably need to sharpen the chain. A dull chain can be very dangerous. It can cause a kickback or chain jump that might break the chain and release pieces that could harm to the operator. If your chain is very shiny, you need to examine each cutter for damage. Use a file to sharpen the cutters.

The Chain Continues to Move or Stops

If the chain continues to move while the engine idles then you should check to make sure the idle is not set too high. If it stops while cutting, see if the brake is engaged.

My Chainsaw Loses Power

If the saw loses power while operating, check to make sure all electrical connections are secure. Any break in current may cause the saw to decrease in power, stall or shut down altogether.

When maintained, chainsaws are a great asset to any tool collection. Consult your user's manual for questions specific to certain manufacturer types.

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Posted on Oct 05, 2010

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Need instructions on replacing the whole clutch


Remove all tension from the cable. Drain the fluid and remove the primary outer cover. Remove the primary chain adjuster. Remove clutch adjustment plate cir-clip and plate assembly . Lock compensatory and clutch sprockets. Loosen and remove compensator and clutch hub assembly nuts and assemblies. Remember that the clutch nut is a left hand thread.

Oct 07, 2014 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

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Drive Hub Assembly Replacement for Stairmaster 4000PT Stepper


Stairmaster Stepper Drive Hub Assembly Replacement
  1. Remove the side covers.
  2. Remove the step chain retainers.
  3. Supposrt the pedal arm. Unhook the pedal arm return spring from the spring hanger. Lift the step chain up and off the clutch sprocket and lower the pedal arm to the floor. Repeat on the other side.
  4. Remove the snap ring from the left end of the drive shaft. WARNING: To reduce the risk of eye injury, wear eye protection when removing snap rings.
  5. Remove the drive chain.
  6. Remove the sprocket and other small parts from the left side of the hub assembly.
  7. Slide the drive shaft to the right, out of the hub assembly. If you remove the right-hand clutch sprocket form the drive shaft, do not confuse it with the left-hand clutch sprocket.
  8. Loosen and remove the two remaining bolts and nuts that hold the hub assembly to the frame. Remove the hub assembly.
  9. Inspect the drive shaft, bushings, thrust washers, and clutch sprockets for excessive wear or pitting. Replace any worn components.
  10. To reinstall the hub assembly, carefull reverse the disassembly procedures. Be sure that the right- and left-hand clutch sprockets are positioned correctly; the wide shoulder of the sprocket should be facing away from the hub on both sides.
  11. Chain Tension. The drive shaft is mounted in an eccentric hub. Rotate the hub so the marked hole is in the 12 o'clock posistion, lining up four holes in th hub with the four holes in the frame. Use this hub position when reinstalling the drive chain since the distance between the drive and the transmission shafts is at a minimum. The hub is in the proper position when the drive chain has a total of 1" to 1-1/2" of play, up and down, at the slackest point in the chain. If it is necessary to increase the tension or tighten the chain, rotate the hub counter clockwise until the chain has proper tension.
  12. Reinstall the covers.

How to Repalce the Drive Hub Assembly on Stairmaster 4000PT

on Feb 25, 2015 | Stairmaster 4000PT Stepper

1 Answer

How do i replace the regulator & stator on a 92


There's nothing to replacing the regulator. It simply bolts to the frame. The wires from the regulator to the stator plug into the plug on the lower left front of the engine case. The larger longer wires runs back along the frame and up to the positive post of the battery.

There's a bit more to replacing the stator. To replace the stator, disconnect the battery and drain the primary case. Remove the outer primary cover. You'll have to take the engine compensator sprocket nut off and remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. To get the clutch assembly off, remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the clutch adjuster. The mainshaft nut is inside the hole in the center of the clutch assembly. The nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster and take the engine sprocket, primary chain with adjuster, and the clutch assembly off all together. The rotor is on the engine sprocket shaft. It can be difficult to get off because of the magnets inside of it. The rotor has two holes in it. I use two long bolts and put them just into the holes deep enough to hold the rotor by squeezing the ends together. Pull the rotor off. The stator is held on by four small Torx bolts and it has a wire support that is held on by two small sheet metal screws. When you install the new stator, make sure you use thread locker on the threads and torque the bolts to 40 inch pounds of torque. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch mainshaft nut (LEFT HANDED THREADS) torques to 60-80 foot pounds. You'll probably need a locking bar or some way to prevent the engine from turning while you torque the nuts.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 01, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide...

1 Answer

How do i pull the clutch assembly on a 84 fxrs


Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary oil and remove the outer primary cover. Remove the four bolts that hold the clutch spring in. Remove the clutch spring and pressure plate. Then, you can remove the friction and steel plates. If you want to remove the entire clutch assembly, you'll have to remove the nut from the transmission mainshaft and remove the sprocket shaft nut. The mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Once you get the nut off, you'll need a clutch puller to get the clutch assembly off the tapered transmission mainshaft. Get one of the pullers that screw onto the mainshaft and you rap it with a hammer. You do not have to disassemble the clutch assembly completely to remove it from the mainshaft. You can take it off as a unit by removing the snap ring in the center and removing the adjuster plate. Remove the sprocket shaft nut, the chain adjuster nut, and the mainshaft nut and remove the engine sprocket, primary chain and clutch assembly all together.

Good Luck
steve

Jun 10, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide...

1 Answer

How do ichange my altanator


To change the stator in your alternator, you must first disconnect the battery. Then drain the primary and remove the cover. Take the compensator nut off the sprocket shaft and remove the nut on the primary chain adjuster. Then, remove the circlip that holds the clutch adjuster into the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. This nut has left-handed threads. Grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and remove these and the primary chain all at the same time. Behind the sprocket shaft extension is a shim or several shims, remove these and remember where the go. You'll see the rotor. It has two holes in it. Use some long bolts that will go into the holes. Insert the bolts and squeeze them together. Pull the rotor off. It may be difficult to get off as it has very strong magnets in it but it will come off. Behind the rotor is the stator. Remove the four Torx bolts and the two small screws that hold the plug into the case. Remove the stator. Replace the stator and all the rest of the assembly is the reverse of the disassembly. The mainshaft nut (left-handed threads) torques to 60-80 foot pounds. The compensator sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds. You'll need a locking bar to prevent the engine from turning while applying torque to these nuts. Adjust the primary chain to have 3/4 to 7/8 inch up and down play with the engine cold. Replace the primary cover and add oil. If you are going to attempt to do this job, I'd strongly suggest you purchase a service manual.

Good Luck
Steve

May 24, 2011 | 2003 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard

1 Answer

Removal motorsprocket


I'm going to assume that you are talking about how to remove the engine sprocket from the sprocket shaft in the primary cover.

First, disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Look underneath the primary and loosen the locknut for the primary chain adjuster and loosen the primary chain by turning the screw outwards a few turns.

Then take the derby cover off the primary and remove the spring and locknut for the clutch adjustment. Remove the screws from around the primary and break it loose from the engine. Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise while removing the primary cover. Lay the primary cover aside.

Now, there is a plate in the center of the clutch assembly held in with a circlip. Remove the circlip. Now you'll need either an air wrench or a locking bar to lock the primary to prevent it from turning so you can get the clutch hub nut and the engine sprocket nut off. The engine nut has right hand threads and comes off normally. The clutch hub nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS and you must turn it in reverse. Once you get the two nuts off, you can usually grab the engine sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift those two units and the chain off at once. Sometimes you may need a puller to get the engine sprocket off but usually it just comes right off.

Installation is the reverse with the engine nut being torques to 150 foot pounds and the clutch hub nut torqued to 60 foot pounds left handed.

Good Luck
Steve

Mar 03, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883

1 Answer

I HAVE A HARLEY SPORSTER 1200, WILL NOT SHIFT OUT OG GEAR, STAYS IN HIGH GEAR....HELP PLEASE..............


Sounds like the shifter pawl is broken. This is common in Sportsters. You'll have to pull your primary drive to repair it.

Disconnect your battery, drain the primary, loosen the primary chain adjuster and remove the outer primary cover. Take the engine sprocket nut loose. Remove the snap ring in the clutch assemble and remove the throwout bearing. Remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. This nut has LEFT HANDED threads. Lift the engine sprocket, primary chain, and the clutch assembly out of the primary case.

Now, you can get to the shifting mechanism and determine what the problem is.

Good luck
Steve

Aug 31, 2010 | Harley Davidson XL 1200 L Sporster Low...

1 Answer

Need diagram to change stator on 99electra glide classic


I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

Aug 15, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

How do I pull the front Sprocket inside the primary cover to change the stator


The compensator has a large nut on it and it's very tight. But, I get them off with an air impact wrench. You also have to remove the clutch assembly and primary chain. To remove the cluch assy, remove the clutch rod adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly by removing the snap ring. Inside the clutch is the mainshaft shaft nut. It has LEFT HANDED THREADS ON IT. Take it off and the remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster off and lift the front sprocket, the clutch, and the chain off all together.

The rotor should come right off but you'll have to put two bolts in the holes on the rotor and squeeze them together to get a grip on the rotor to pull it off. The magnitism force is quite strong.

When replacing the clutch and compensator, the mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds. You'll need something to lock the primary chain while you torque the nuts or the engine will turn before you get them torqued.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 06, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Need 2 replace clutch on my 2001 softail duece


Remove the outer primary cover on left side. Don't forget to drain the oil first. Using a large pair of snap ring pliers, remove the clutch adjuster plate from center of clutch assembly. Remove compensator sprocket nut (very tight) and the clutch hub nut (left handed threads) and remove nut from bolt on primary chain adjuster. Grab the compensator sprocket and clutch assembly and lift out of inner primary.

Jun 30, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXSTD Softail Duece

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