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Model 397PA Unable to retain air pressue, audible air leak noted at end of pumping stroke.

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  • g_tomita Oct 05, 2010

    Hi heatman 101,
    Mahalo for your advice...yes, it leaks on every stroke...also if repair kits are available, where

  • g_tomita Oct 07, 2010

    Original question: will not hold air pressure, audible air lesk at end of each pumping stroke. Reply was: seals are leaking with a web site that has repair kits available (unable to log on) Request another web-site for repair parts.

  • g_tomita Oct 07, 2010

    this is not what i am looking for. I need all o-rings, seals for part no. 397-032. need web sit for purchasing these items...mahalo...gt

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3 Answers

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Most likely it's going to be an o-ring or gasket that's gone bad. If you take it in to a reputable Gun Dealer, they will be able to tell you what needs to be replaced, and where to obtain the parts, if available.
Actually, I just ran across a site that may solve your problem:
http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2005/09/fix-your-benjamin-or-sheridan.html
If you have any doubts about how to repair the gun, take it to a Gun Dealer, and get them to help you. You don't want to take a chance on damaging it.
Good luck, and hope this helps.

Posted on Oct 07, 2010

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  • Master
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Ok that means that the internal air tank has a physical leak in it. It can definitely be replaced but there is no easily solution for it. For high end air guns like your Benjamin there you definitely want the manufacturer to fix the problem or it could seriously compromise the quality and accuracy of the gun. They are a hard company to track down here, they don't have a website or anything but I have dealt with them numerous times in the past. They have amazing customer service, you just need to give them a call at 585-657-6161.

Thanks!
Tim

Posted on Oct 07, 2010

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Hi,
The seals are leaking so the air is leaking out...
Is it doing this at every stroke or just after a number of strokes???

Check this out it may help...

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/3888468/397_PA_Benjamin_Sheridan_Quest

There also may be a repair kit available...

http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2005/09/fix-your-benjamin-or-sheridan.html

heatman101

Posted on Oct 05, 2010

  • D. Floyd Kolb
    D. Floyd Kolb Oct 05, 2010

    Here,
    http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Benjamin_S...

    There is also a technical assistance number there... call that if you have more questions....

    heatman101

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How to replace water pump


Removal & Installation

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the engine cooling system.
  3. For 5.3L engines, loosen the air cleaner outlet duct clamps at the throttle body and Mass Airflow/Intake Air Temperature (MAP/IAT) sensor. Remove the bolt and air cleaner outlet duct.
  4. Relieve the belt tension and remove the accessory drive belts or the serpentine drive belt, as applicable.
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:

NOTE
For the hoses on some engines, removal may be easier if the hose is left attached until the pump is free from the block. Once the pump is removed from the engine, the pump may be pulled (giving a better grip and greater leverage) from the tight hose connection.W

WARNING
Note the positions of all retainers as some engines will utilize different length fasteners in different locations and/or bolts and studs in different locations.

  • Upper fan shroud
  • Fan or fan and clutch assembly, as applicable
  • Water pump pulley; use a suitable tool to hold the pulley while removing the bolts
  • Coolant hose(s) from the water pump
  • Water pump retainers
  • Water pump from the engine



4.2L Pump Location26010723-pqcu5dneux0l02jg41pvmzkd-2-0.gif
5.3L Pump Location


26010723-pqcu5dneux0l02jg41pvmzkd-2-1.gif
To install:
  1. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces.

    NOTE

    The water pumps on some of the engines covered may have been installed using sealer only, no gasket, at the factory. If a gasket is supplied with the replacement part, it should be used. Otherwise, a 1 / 8 in. (3mm) bead of RTV sealer should be used around the sealing surface of the pump.
  2. Apply sealant to the water pump retainer threads.
  3. Install or connect the following:

    • Water pump using a new gasket. Tighten the water pump retainers to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) for 4.2L engines, or to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm) for 4.3L engines. For 5.3L engines, tighten the bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm), then to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    • Coolant hose(s)
    • Water pump pulley. Tighten the pulley bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
    • Fan or fan and clutch assembly
    • Serpentine drive belt (if equipped) by positioning the belt over the pulleys and carefully allow the tensioner back into contact with the belt.
    • V-belts (if equipped) and adjust the tension
    • Upper fan shroud
    • Negative battery cable
  4. Refill the engine cooling system.
  5. Run the engine and check for leaks.

Dec 16, 2015 | 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

I have a reddy heater 40,000 btu it works with the top off and then when I put the top back on the fan hits it? what do I do


You will need to adjust your pressure.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Feb 28, 2015 | Reddy Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How do i check the pump


  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Feb 25, 2015 | Reddy Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Burns for one or two minutes then stops. also giving a code 3


  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

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1 Answer

I have a 1996 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo. it began to stall at idle and now will not start


Check audibly the fuel pump. It will run for 3 seconds when ignition is turned on, but engine not started. If it makes noise, you could check for pressue at the fuel rail. There is normally a schrader valve you can press. Tske care, fuel under pressure will come out when pump is ok.
if ok, check for eventual fault codes with scanner.
could be crank sensor.

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1 Answer

Bike spits and sputters at top end


Hi, Johnny and the usual suspects are:
1. Inlet system air leak.
2. Enrichener valve not seated or leaking.
3. Damaged or restricted fuel tank vent system.
4. Restricted fuel supply tract.
5. Dirty or damaged air cleaner element.
6. Plugged bowl vent or overflow.
7. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
8. Vacuum piston assembly malfunction.
9. Loose or plugged main jets or passages.
10. Improper float level.
11. Accelerator pumps inoperative.
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1 Answer

Builds up pressure then idle and leak air out is there a shut off that hold air at 180 lbs.


You did not mention a brand or model number, however, most air compressors have a check valve (brass nut) at the tank that retains the air in the tank. If check valve is leaking, air will leak back thru the checkvalve into the pump or the unloader. You must have a two stage pump if you are holding at 180psi. If, however you have a single stage pump (that should be set about 150 or less) you are overloading the system. Good luck

Nov 09, 2012 | Air Tools & Compressors

2 Answers

Husky model WL6605-00AJ,will pump up to 65psi,thats all the air showing on thr gauge.The compressor is still running


You Might Have Water Condensation Inside The Tank Therefore It Can Only Fit So Much Air Into The Tank Which Is Why Its Always Better To Completely Drain All The Air Out Of The Tank When Not In Use.

Mar 17, 2012 | Air Tools & Compressors

2 Answers

Timing belt


TIMING BELT & SPROCKETS R & I
NOTE: Some procedures may differ slightly due to engine
construction.
Removal
1) Remove all necessary air ducts. Position No. 4 piston at
TDC of compression stroke. Align timing marks. See Fig. 2. Remove fan
and fan shroud. Remove belts. If necessary, remove radiator and
splashguard.
2) Prevent engine from rotating and remove crankshaft timing
pulley retaining bolt. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers.
Remove spring from tension pulley. Loosen adjusting bolt and move
pulley toward water pump. Remove timing belt.
CAUTION: Ensure pistons are at TDC when rotating camshaft or damage
may result.
Inspection
1) Handle timing belt carefully. Avoid twisting or kinking
belt. Do not allow belt to become contaminated by water, oil, dirt or
other contaminates. Inspect belt for cracks or damage. If necessary,
replace.
2) Measure tension pulley spring length and force. Spring
length should not exceed 2.76" (70.2 mm) and spring force should not
be less than 197-347 lbs. (27-48 kg).
3) Replace tension pulley spring if not within specification.
Installation
1) Pull tensioner fully toward water pump side and
temporarily tighten retaining bolt. Ensure No. 4 cylinder is at TDC on
compression stroke by rotating crankshaft until keyway aligns with
mark on front crankshaft seal housing (12 o'clock). Rotate camshaft
until timing mark on cam gear (arrow) aligns with mark on upper
camshaft cover (notch). See Fig. 2.
NOTE: When timing marks are aligned as stated above, No. 4 piston
is at TDC on compression stroke.
2) Position timing belt over crankshaft sprocket, oil pump
sprocket, camshaft sprocket and tensioner in that order. Ensure belt
is positioned in sequence given and without slack between sprockets.
Loosen tension sprocket adjusting bolt allowing spring tension to
tighten belt. Tighten adjusting bolt temporarily.
3) Temporarily install crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate
crankshaft 2 complete revolutions in opposite direction of engine
rotation, until marks on crankshaft and front oil seal retainer are
aligned again. See Fig. 2. Loosen tensioner lock bolt, allowing
tesioner spring to fully adjust tension. Tighten tensioner lock bolt.
4) Install timing belt covers. To complete installation,
reverse removal procedures. Tighten all bolts to specification. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table at end of this article.
Fig. 2: 2.3L & 2.6L Timing Alignment Marks
Courtesy of Isuzu Motor Co

Dec 13, 2010 | 1989 Isuzu Pickup 2WD

1 Answer

How do i change the fuel filter on my 2002 lincoln continental


Removal & Installation - Fuel Filter

NOTE Disable the air suspension before raising the vehicle. The switch is located on the left side of the luggage compartment.
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Turn the air suspension service switch OFF .
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  4. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  5. Disconnect the fuel lines.
  6. Loosen the filter retaining clamp and remove the fuel filter.

    c29cd18.jpg
    Fig. Slide the special tool into the fitting to disengage it

To install:
  1. Install the fuel filter with the flow arrow facing the proper direction and tighten the filter retaining clamp.
  2. Push the fuel lines on to the filter fittings until an audible click is heard.
  3. Connect the negative battery cable.
  4. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks and proper operation.
  5. Turn the air suspension switch to the ON position.

On 1992-up vehicles, install the fuel filter with the flow arrow facing the proper direction and tighten the filter retaining clamp.

347251a.jpg


Hope this helps (remember rated this)-

Aug 13, 2010 | 2002 Lincoln Continental

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