- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Thank you so much! I had struggled with getting this cover off for 20 minutes or so. It's just like the other poster said; you have to put a flat head screwdriver into the bottom corners of the front cover and push outward to get the cover off. It takes some doing if your unit is as old as mine is, but with some work it will come off. I was afraid I was breaking the cover because it was pretty hard to remove. But it worked. Thanks!
Some of these units have a kinda clip on the bottom If its been a while since its been serviced it may take a little kick to get it off. You shuld be ablt ot pull it down a bit and then pull out from the bottom. Or perhaps a but of hat water along hte edges will help .. Clean it carefully and don't get any electrical wet . Jon
I could not find that model number listed, but no matter. It sounds like your drain line is plugged with something and you need to clear the line. What has always worked best for me is a guitar string because it is flexible enough not to damage anything but rigid enough to work on cloggs.
It's an air intake vent damper. If you push it in, the unit won't pull any air from outside, instead it'll recirculate air from the room. If you pull it outward, it allows the unit to pull air from outside. During the day when it's hot outside, the lever should be pushed into the closed position to allow for more efficient cooling. At night, if you want to exchange air from outside when it's cool enough, pull out the lever to allow that to happen. The unit will exhaust hot air no matter if this switch is in or out.
Your unit is 515 Watts using 115V (line to ground.)
Specifications: • Volts 115 • EER 9.7 • Amps 5.0 • Watts 515 • Plug cap. amps 125/15 • Pints per hour 1.4 • Room air (CFM) 160 Room Size: • 10' x 15' • 150 sq. ft.
If you plan on using it in the Philippines the electrical power supply is 220V line to ground. You can use an Auto Voltage Regulator (AVR) which has an internal winding with a servo that moves a carbon brush across the winding. I would recommend that you use at least a 1500 Watt AVR as the longer you use it the hotter it will get. Hopefully you can find an AVR with 3 pronged outlets. I currently use 3 ea. SIEG models SVC-888-1000 VA (600 Watts) for most electronics and 1 SVC-888-1500VA on a small 11 Cu Ft. freezer. The Freezer is 626W but uses almost 700W during the defrost cycle. The AVR failed after 3 years due to overheating. (STINK!) I also have a 4th SEIG model SVC-888-3000VA on my 21 Cu Ft 115V Refrigerator. There are other AVR manufacturers here and the cost vary greatly by manufacturer. (P3300 - P6500 depending on model) I have has all of my AVRs in countinous service for almost 6 years.