Question about Electric Cannon Mag 10 Hs Downrigger

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I just purchased a Cannon Mag 10 HS downrigger from Cabela's. It had been a return and I got it for a discounted price. When I brought it home and hooked it up to my 12 volt boat battery it would not work. I can hear a click when I flip the switch but the motor does not turn the reel. I pressed the reset button but without success. I'm open to suggestions.

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I would try getting ahold of cannon .

Posted on Oct 30, 2010


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Corrosion is caused by small amounts of electrical current flow following the path of least resistance and jumping off one piece of metal to another one thus taking a small piece of metal with it when it goes. You have to either eliminate the current flow or slow it down or make it go somewhere else. The positive ion control in these downriggers can probably add to the problem. Also if you're fishing in salt water, it is a natural electrolyte and if two differnt kinds of metal are in saltwater, they creat a natural battery and produce enough electrical current to corrode the metal. I would suggest maybe using a sacrificial anode. It's a piece of metal with lower resistance to electrical current flow than the metal you're trying to use, thus is corrodes the anode before corroding the metal you're protecting. Anodes are made of metals like aluminum, zinc and magnesium. If you had a small piece of one of those metals and wrapped it around the downrigger spool before you wound the cable onto it, it would rust it out before rusting your cable. You can also try turning down your Ion Control. I've seen my cable rusting a little bit but it doesn't seem to be that bad or rust so fast. I'm wondering if you're using a different kind of metal for your cannonball?

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1 Answer

A)will not work at all,had radio shack test out the fuse and switch;said they were fine,direct wired motor to batteryand the motor worked fine in both directions and b)have another downrigger that once the...

I may be able to suggest a cure for downrigger #1. The switches sometimes have several terminals and they work differently than they look.
For example, if you have 6 terminals, 3 on each side of the switch. The left bottom and right bottom are a pair. The middle two are a pair and the top two are a pair. Then you have terminals that are separate on the right side with the middle terminal being common and the pair being right lower and middle, right upper and middle with corresponding left side action.

This point being that the switch for unit #1 is good as tested by Radio Shack. Its where you stick the wires on the terminals that is the problem.

You need a multitester and use an OHM setting without juice flowing through your wires. This way you can figure out the pairings of the terminals without burning something up.

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The programming starts on page 12.

Best of luck!

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