Question about Sharp Televison & Video

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I have a standard definition, CRT-type, Sharp TV, model no. 32C540. It recently stopped working. It will not power up. Pressing the front panel power switch, or the remote power switch produces nothing but the sound of a relay switching. 'but no power to the set'. I tried bypassing the power relay, and the degaussing coil relay but 'no cigar'. I suspect a Switching I.C., full-wave rectifier, or MOS Switch, but don't want to buy parts blindly.

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  • Hector E. Rodriguez May 28, 2008

    Thanks. I agree it's a power supply issue. I do have the repair manual, and accompanying block diagrams, and schematics. I suspect switching I.C. (ref. no. IC701), or MOS (ref. no. Q701, or the rectifier diode bridge (ref. no. D701). These are part of the primary switching to the power transformer from which all the set's voltages are derived. Thanks again.

  • Hector E. Rodriguez May 28, 2008

    Thanks. I have checked the outlet, and also switched to a different outlet. The power cord is fine. The sound is definitely not from the fly-back transformer. It is from the power relay being energized, but no 125 volt being switched across its terminal. I've bypassed the relay to eliminate it as the problem. I am aware of the dangerous voltages. I've gotten two quotes from Sharp Authorized repair centers (approximately $190). Thanks again.

  • Hector E. Rodriguez May 28, 2008

    Thanks.

  • Hector E. Rodriguez May 28, 2008

    I have a standard definition, CRT-type, Sharp TV, model no. 32C540. It recently stopped working. It will not power up. Pressing the front panel power switch, or the remote power switch produces nothing but the sound of a relay switching. 'but no power to the set'. I tried bypassing the power relay, and the degaussing coil relay but 'no cigar'. I suspect a Switching I.C., full-wave rectifier, or MOS Switch, but don't want to buy parts blindly. P.S: It is not a PROJECTION T.V.

  • Hector E. Rodriguez May 28, 2008

    Thanks. Apparently the full-wave bridge rectifier is fine since the DC supplies, i.e. +13v, +8v, and S+B, must be present for the System Control IC (IC2001)to function, and Regulators IC101, 1403, and 751, ( +5v, +5-B, and +9v-B respectively). Because of this I can also rule out the MOS switch Q701. I've narrowed it down to IC701, (switching for transformer primary to provide +130v to rest of set through the Power Relay RY7002. Thanks for the help.

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The problem may in the power IC or mos transistor or even the gas in tube is weak, check the ckt board and replace the board as changing the single component may create the same problem later its better to change the board than to change individual components .........

Posted on May 28, 2008

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Hello,

REmove the suspected parts then test it independently start with the most easy part to remove. then test.

Please do also the continuity test from the power input to the projection .

melnavz

Posted on May 28, 2008

  • Emelio Navaja
    Emelio Navaja Jun 02, 2008

    Thank you for using fixya.

  • Emelio Navaja
    Emelio Navaja Jun 02, 2008

    Thank you for using fixya.

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From the symptoms you describe, it seems the high voltage flyback autotransformer has failed. The sound comes from the flyback unit.

But first, check that the AC outlet at the wall is actually working and viable. That is the first step. Next, try a different power cable (if you have the removable type). If these two are ok, then it is most likely a problem with the autotransformer or any one of the power components. It is difficult to say exactly which may be faulty without actually inspecting the parts and testing them.

I would recommend getting a repair guy to take a look, as I do not recommend opening up the set if you have no prior experience. There are voltages inside that can KILL.

Ask him to give you a quote, and if you find that the rate is too high, it would probably be better to just buy a new set.

Hope that helps..

Posted on May 28, 2008

  • Swilin Sampson
    Swilin Sampson May 28, 2008

    Well, check each component for continuity, and by process of elimination, you should find the defective part..

    Good luck with the repair!


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Hmmm...well...you are most likely dealing with a power supply issue..I'd suspect the capacitors, or the actual rectifiers before messing with the control devices..

My recommend..get your hands on a service manual and schematic, before opening up a can of worms on this one.

Posted on May 28, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • Patrick Michaels
    Patrick Michaels May 28, 2008

    easiest is to determine if the diodes are good..everything else downstream depends on a dc voltage..just check to see if there's enough there for the rest of the circuit to operate..

  • Patrick Michaels
    Patrick Michaels May 28, 2008

    and thankya for using fixya




  • Patrick Michaels
    Patrick Michaels May 28, 2008

    fine..and are you going to reward someone with some moola here?

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