Question about Watts Braided Stainless Steel Faucet Connector CFC-S-CF 3/8 x 1/2 x 30"

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I need a 7-8" braided faucet connector but see that Watts only makes 12". Can I bend these to work?

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Yes just dont bend to tight. 12 should work no problem

Posted on Oct 05, 2010


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1 Answer

The braided hot and cold faucet hoses are too short to connect to the plumbing. Are there connectors that can be purchased?

Braided supply lines are available in a variety of lengths. Also, if practical, consider extending the stub outs to allow connection to the braided lines.

Jan 26, 2016 | Grohe Bathroom Faucet Eurosmart Kit Chrome

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I just installed a tuscany brookesville pulldown kitcken faucet. I cannot get any hot water. I checked the line and I have water to the connection. What do I do?

Hi Wilber- are you using the Watts brand "Floodsafe" auto-shutoff connectors for your hot & cold water supply lines?
Refer to the following link, please:

Feb 23, 2015 | Plumbing

1 Answer

I have a leaky braided water supply line on my Whitehaus faucet. However, when I disconnect to replace, the connections aren't standard (e.g., I can't pick up a replacement braided water line at Home...

if you cannot find hose replacement from manufacturer/brand then just use standard braid and use reducer. it should be available at any hardware store and plumbing supplies, i would check first on e-bay, just in search put "1/4 3/8 braided", these braided connectors are usually used for hot water connection.

please write if it was helpful, rating will be nice too... ;-)

Oct 11, 2013 | Grohe Home

1 Answer

Widetech the max psu update, now black screen on monitor

Kind of hard to give you a cable diagram, Roslyn, when you haven't stated what motherboard manufacturer and model number.

Or computer manufacturer and model number.
(Back of computer next to Windows product key; or up on side of computer tower )

So we'll wing it..............

Widetech the Max. A modular line of Power Supplies.

1) Main power cable;
It will be either a 20-pin ATX main power cable, or a 24-pin ATX main power cable.

The WTM (Widetech the Max) will have a braided thick cable, that will have a 20-pin connector, and a 4-pin connector.
Looks like this,

The 20-pin connector, and the 4-pin connector, should have a white arrow on the side. The arrows point to each other, when the two connectors are properly aligned with each other.

So, ATX main power cable plugs into Power Supply, (If removable), and 20 + 4-pin connector plugs into motherboard.

When the hooked end of the Lock, on the side of the power cable's connector; is over the Tab on the motherboard connector; the power cable is deemed to be plugged in properly, and tightly.

Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
Red wires are 5 Volts
Yellow wires are 12 Volts.
Black wires are Ground wires. (Also are Negative)

Note that the extra 4-pin power cable, that attaches with the 20-pin ATX power cable; has TWO Yellow wires, a Red wire, and a Black wire.
This way you don't accidentally somehow, plug the following power cable, in with the 20-pin ATX main power cable,

2) 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable:

When Processors started using more power, than just the processor socket (Motherboard) could deliver, this power cable was brought out to help carry the load.

TWO Yellow 12 volt wires, and TWO Black ground wires.

3) 8-pin EPS +12 Volt power cable:

Brought out for motherboards supporting multiple Processors, (CPU's), such as a server computer; but with processors needing more, and more power; is used quite frequently by motherboard manufacturers now.

NOTICE the power wires. The color code of the insulation of the wires.
FOUR Yellow wires (12 Volt), and FOUR Black wires. (Ground)
NOT to be mixed up with the following power cable,

This baby plugs into a GRAPHICS CARD (Video Card. Same/same)
A PCI Express graphics card, IF it uses one.

The PCI-Express x16 slot on the motherboard, is only capable of delivering 75 Watts.
This power cable can deliver UP TO an additional 150 Watts.

It is an upgrade of this power cable,

The 6-pin PCI Express power cable was brought out, to provide more power for a graphics card.

75 Watts.

So now you have the PCI-Express x16 slot on the motherboard capable of 75 Watts, and the 6-pin PCI Express power cable capable of 75 Watts; for a total of 150 Watts available for a graphics card.

PCI-Express x16 slot on motherboard, and 8-pin PCI Express power cable?

225 Watts.

This power cable,

Is for a motherboard that uses a 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable, OR an 8-pin EPS +12 Volt power cable.
Is a combined power cable if needed, just like the 20 + 4-pin ATX main power cable.

This power cable is a SATA power cable,

Used to plug into a Harddrive, or Optical Drive. (CD/DVD drive)

IF your SATA harddrive has a provision on the back; to plug in EITHER a SATA power cable, AND a 4-pin Peripheral power cable; ONLY use the SATA power cable.

Using BOTH power cables will burn up the harddrive. May not happen immediately, but I ASSURE you it will happen.

4-pin Peripheral power cable, is also erroneously known as a 'Molex' power cable.
Molex was the first company with the CONNECTOR design. The name stuck. Kind of like calling an adjustable open-end wrench, a Crescent wrench,

[ IDE (PATA) harddrive shown in photo. Not a SATA harddrive ]

Note that between a SATA power cable, and a SATA data cable; the SATA power cable's connector is longer.
SATA power cable connector has 15-pins.
SATA data cable's connector has 7-pins,

Note the L-shaped opening of the SATA data cable's connector; and the L-shape of the motherboard connector.
The SATA power cable has the same L-shaped opening.

NOTE that color of connectors does NOT matter.
Could be green with pink polka dots.
It is the wire color code, and connector SHAPE, that matters.

[Applies to ALL cables, and connectors}

Sometimes the SATA power cable, and SATA data cable connectors; have a lock on them.
May not see it very well. It is usually a slightly raised bump on the connector. This is depressed with a thumb nail to unlock.

Unlock WHEN installing, and removing.

ALWAYS use the connector when plugging in, or unplugging a cable.
DO NOT pull on the wires.
(Even if you have to stand on your head, and whistle 'Dixie')

I lay the computer opening side UP, on a static free towel, on a table. Much easier to get to the cabling.

ONLY plug in the cables you need, to the Power Supply.
That's what Modular cabling is all about.
Gives more room when not using unnecessary cables, and more air flow through the computer case; for cooling.

I just installed a ThermalTake TR2 600 power supply. It is Modular Cabling also.

I'm willing to bet you didn't plug the Processor (CPU) power cable in.
Either a 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable, OR an 8-pin EPS +12 Volt power cable.

Make sure the Ram Memory is seated tightly also.
It get's bumped loose when installing a Power Supply.
No, CANNOT just visually inspect, and let it go at that.

You HAVE to remove ALL ram memory modules ('Stick'), and plug them back in again; to be ASSURED that they/it are seated tightly, and correctly.

Well that about does it for me kid, post back in a Comment if you have additional questions.


Jan 01, 2013 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Model number NF-PDSH the braided hose is leaking thru the seams

you need to replace the hose once the braided ones start leaking , turn off the water source, remove the hose, Its gonna leak some so be careful,, take that hose with you to a Home depot or lowes, some place like that so you get the correct size end pieces

Jun 14, 2011 | Fontaine NFKPDSORB Faucets Luxury...

1 Answer

What is the water connection?


Feb 05, 2011 | Watts 116054 Standard Faucet with Air Gap...

1 Answer

When I push my subwoofer cone its work and when i release it stops working. how can i fix this speaker? the make of this is 12'' 1210 Watts Infinity sub.

Looks like a broken copper braid that links the speaker terminal to the cone (from there on it goes to the coil which is underneath the cone).

Check the speaker connection terminals (near the magnet), you will notice that each terminal has a copper braid wire going from that terminal to the speaker cone.

Inspect both braid wires carefully at each end (near the speaker terminal and near the speaker cone), there will either be some damage to the braid at one or more of these four locations or the braid could be actually broken at any of these spots.

The braid can actually be resoldered at the point where it's damaged or broken - this task will require good soldering skills, mainly because this kind of braid wires are difficuld to solder (they are a bit difficult to clean because of their structure and solder won't attach itself well to oxydized copper), but also because some speaker cones are made of plastic which may melt if you overheat it with a soldering iron.

Besides that, when resoldering is being done, only a very short portion of the braid should be wetted with solder because the solder point will become rigid when the solder cools down, and the braid needs to remain very flexible when the speaker operates (if it's too rigid or too short, damage to the speaker cone could occur or the braid could get broken again when the speaker will be playing at a loud volume).

Hope you can have it repaired, it can be done at home, but there are also speaker repair shops where you can get it done (i'm not sure about the prices though).

Anyway, the alternative is to replace the speaker itself.


3rq8 (Triarcuate)

Sep 09, 2009 | Infinity PS-12 Subwoofer

1 Answer

I have poor water pressure from the faucet, hot and cold, in a single handle faucet

could be a number of things.
most mixer taps have flexible braided inlet hose's make shure there not kinked.
also there may be built pressure reducing valves,usually removerable,a plumbers job really.
is there servive valves on hot and cold if so make shure there fully on.good luck ,any qs ask

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