Question about Cub Cadet Garden

1 Answer

When I turn the key it clicks but will not turn over. Evrything is in the right position for starting (brake, PTO, etc) The battery reads good.

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that gotĀ 5 achievements.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 20 times.

    Scholar:

    An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.

  • Expert
  • 150 Answers

Sounds like starter motor, but before we make that leap,check all the battery connections and the connections on solenoid and starter.

Posted on Oct 05, 2010

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

P t o blades wont engage


Do you hear any clicking when you pull the pto switch?
just turn the key to the on position and listen as you pull the pot switch... if it clicks, you may have a faulty pto clutch.
Also another test will be to put a test light on the wires at the pto and see if they light up when the pto clutch is engauged. If they do light up that is a good indication that the clutch is bad...if they don't, then you need to check all the safety switch, like in the seat, on the brake, etc.

Jul 02, 2017 | Garden

1 Answer

When i turn the key on to start my L110 it just clicks the battery is fully charged


check the battery and connections---is the pto in down off position check battery for corrosion and check the fuse next to the battery --if good- start testing the seat switch ,pedal switch,pto ,solenoid and starter =

Sep 14, 2016 | John Deere L100 Series

4 Answers

My Craftsman ride on lawn mower will not start. I charged the battery, yes there is gas in it. You turn the key and absolutely nothing. No click, nothing.


When I turn the key nothing happens.
There are several elements that go into cranking (turning over) the engine.
  1. Battery
  2. Fuse
  3. Key Switch (and wiring)
  4. Starter Solenoid and wires
  5. Starter motor
To begin with check the fuse. It's a 20amp car style fuse located under the hood near the battery.

If the fuse does not fix the problem let's move on to the battery. The quickest way to make your initial check of the entire starting system and particularly the battery is to get a jump. Yep, get some jumper cables and jump the mower off your car. Turn the key and try to start it in the normal fashion ( meaning sitting in the seat, pto off, brake fully depressed). If it starts cool! It is likely a bad battery. To check this out do the following:
  • Charge the battery for a few hours, on a charger.
  • Then perform a voltage measurement of the battery.
  • Switch a volt meter to DC Volts and clip it to the battery. It should read between 12-13 volts. If not the battery is suspect. If it is 12-13 volts see if it will crank, but continue to watch the volts. If they drop below 10ish volts, the battery may have a bad cell.

Now let's check the starting system while bypassing all the safety switches and wiring. How? You can perform this test simply by jumping the starter solenoid. Hold a wrench or fat screwdriver across the two large posts of the starter solenoid. This bypasses the key switch and all safety devices and directly drives the starter. Your starter will crank if the battery and starter are good, the wires and connections are good, and the engine is not locked up. Don't crank it for more that a couple seconds. You just want to verify the battery and the starter are both in good shape. (The engine will crank but not start during this test if the key is off, or if the safety switches or wiring are damaged, or if the safety switches are in the no start/run positions.)

If the starter cranks try one more test. Run a small jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to the little terminal on the solenoid. You may have to take the small wire off the terminal, on the starter solenoid, in order to do this. When you apply this current from the battery to the terminal it should make the solenoid activate and the starter crank. This test bypasses the key switch and shows you the starter system is working. You could do this test first; if it works you do not need to do the basic jump test.

If these tests cause the engine to crank, but it will not crank with the key, then you know you have a problem somewhere in your starter wiring, safety switch system, fuse, or in your Key Switch. Of course you did check the battery terminals for good connection, right?

Most modern riding mowers have the following safety switches:
  • Seat switch
  • PTO switch
  • Reverse switch (RIS) and Reverse Relay (RIO)
  • Brake/Clutch switch
If you need detailed instruction for testing your wiring and safety system, I will need your complete machine info.
  • Make
  • Model
  • Year
  • Engine Model
  • Transmission Model
  • Deck Size.

On a John Deere (100 series) the starting current flows through the following items in this order:
  1. Battery to Fuse then to the Key Switch.
  2. With key switch in the start position, the current flows from the Key Switch to PTO.
  3. With PTO off, current flows from the PTO to Brake/Clutch
  4. With Brake/Clutch Pedal all the way down, the current flows to the starter solenoid.
  5. If the Starter Solenoid is in good shape, the solenoid connects the battery to the Starter and the engine cranks. Cranking does not mean running; it just means the engine turns over. Running is dependent on many other systems.
Those components are all part of the cranking/starting system. They can prevent the Starter Motor from cranking when you turn the Key Switch. You can trace the voltage with a multi-meter. Connect the black lead to ground and look for 12 volts on each successive step. If the voltage disappears at one particular step, there is your suspect.

Electrical elements that are NOT part of the starting system:
The RIO is the Reverse Implement Option. It is a switch that latches and stays latched under certain conditions. It is activated by the RIS. The RIS is the Reverse Implement Switch. It activates the RIO. These two separate components work to allow the blades to cut while you are backing up (without killing the engine). They have nothing to do with the starting system.

The Seat and the RIO (the reverse latch not the button) switches are tied into the engine kill system. They provide a ground path for grounding the Coil. This same system controls the fuel shut off valve beneath the carburetor. The Seat and RIO can keep the engine from running but they will not prevent the Starter Motor from cranking. Therefore, if you turn the key and nothing happens, the problem has nothing to do with the Seat and Reverse switches.

Note: With the Key in the RUN position, power flows from the Key Switch to the Hour Meter, then to the RIO latch relay (not the RIS button), then to the fuel shut off solenoid. If you do not hear the Fuel Shut off Solenoid clicking on and off when you turn the Key Switch from off to run, there may be a problem in this circuit; including a possible problem in the Hour Meter. Of course none of this affects the cranking circuit. Your engine will still crank, it just won't run.

Apr 15, 2015 | Craftsman Garden

2 Answers

My 2014 Craftsman 247.20374 T1600 wont start it just clicks. Briggs 19hp, single cylinder. 46" deck.


The source of the clicking sound is likely the starter solenoid. Typical solutions are:
- Charge the battery (it has too low of voltage).
- Remove corrosion build-up on battery terminals, solenoid wire terminals and ground wires.
- Replace solenoid (it won't engage and only clicks).

Apr 14, 2015 | Craftsman Garden

1 Answer

Craftsman wont do anything wont turn over or fire at all.


When I turn the key nothing happens.
There are several elements that go into cranking (turning over) the engine.
  1. Battery
  2. Fuse
  3. Key Switch (and wiring)
  4. Starter Solenoid and wires
  5. Starter motor
Let's start with the battery. The quickest way to make your initial check of the entire starting system and particularly the battery is to get a jump. Yep, get some jumper cables and jump the mower off your car. Turn the key and try to start it in the normal fashion. If it starts cool! It is likely a bad battery.
  • Charge the battery for a few hours, on a charger.
  • Then perform a voltage measurement of the battery.
  • Switch a volt meter to DC Volts and clip it to the battery. It should read between 12-13 volts. If not the battery is suspect.
Now let's check the starting system while bypassing all the safety switches and wiring. How? You can perform this test simply by jumping the starter solenoid. Hold a wrench or fat screwdriver across the two large posts of the starter solenoid. This bypasses the key switch and all safety devices and directly drives the starter. Your starter will crank if the battery and starter are good, the wires and connections are good, and the engine is not locked up. Don't crank it for more that a couple seconds. You just want to verify the battery and the starter are both in good shape. (The engine will crank but not start during this test if the key is off, or if the safety switches or wiring are damaged, or if the safety switches are in the no start/run positions.)

If the starter cranks try one more test. Run a small jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to the little terminal on the solenoid. You may have to take the small wire off the terminal, on the starter solenoid, in order to do this. When you apply this current from the battery to the terminal it should make the solenoid activate and the starter crank. This test bypasses the key switch and shows you the starter system is working. You could do this test first; if it works you do not need to do the basic jump test.

If these tests cause the engine to crank, but it will not crank with the key, then you know you have a problem somewhere in your starter wiring, safety switch system, fuse, or in your Key Switch. Of course you did check the battery terminals for good connection, right?

Most modern riding mowers have the following safety switches:
  • Seat switch
  • PTO switch
  • Reverse switch (RIS) and Reverse Relay (RIO)
  • Brake/Clutch switch
If you need detailed instruction for testing your wiring and safety system, I will need your complete machine info.
  • Make
  • Model
  • Year
  • Engine Model
  • Transmission Model
  • Deck Size.

On a John Deere (100 series) the starting current flows through the following items in this order:
  1. Battery to Fuse then to the Key Switch.
  2. With key switch in the start position, the current flows from the Key Switch to PTO.
  3. With PTO off, current flows from the PTO to Brake/Clutch
  4. With Brake/Clutch Pedal all the way down, the current flows to the starter solenoid.
  5. If the Starter Solenoid is in good shape, the solenoid connects the battery to the Starter and the engine cranks. Cranking does not mean running; it just means the engine turns over. Running is dependent on many other systems.
Those components are all part of the cranking/starting system. They can prevent the Starter Motor from cranking when you turn the Key Switch. You can trace the voltage with a multi-meter. Connect the black lead to ground and look for 12 volts on each successive step. If the voltage disappears at one particular step, there is your suspect.

Electrical elements that are NOT part of the starting system:
The RIO is the Reverse Implement Option. It is a switch that latches and stays latched under certain conditions. It is activated by the RIS. The RIS is the Reverse Implement Switch. It activates the RIO. These two separate components work to allow the blades to cut while you are backing up (without killing the engine). They have nothing to do with the starting system.

The Seat and the RIO (the reverse latch not the button) switches are tied into the engine kill system.They provide a ground path for grounding the Coil. This same system controls the fuel shut off valve beneath the carburetor. The Seat and RIO can keep the engine from running but they will not prevent the Starter Motor from cranking. Therefore, if you turn the key and nothing happens, the problem has nothing to do with the Seat and Reverse switches.

Note: With the Key in the RUN position, power flows from the Key Switch to the Hour Meter, then to the RIO latch relay (not the RIS button), then to the fuel shut off solenoid. If you do not hear the Fuel Shut off Solenoid clicking on and off when you turn the Key Switch from off to run, there may be a problem in this circuit; including a possible problem in the Hour Meter. Of course none of this affects the cranking circuit. Your engine will still crank, it just won't run.

Apr 12, 2015 | Craftsman Lt1500

1 Answer

My cub cadet zero turn clicks when trying to start.


When I turn the key nothing happens.
There are several elements that go into cranking (turning over) the engine.
  1. Battery
  2. Fuse
  3. Key Switch (and wiring)
  4. Starter Solenoid and wires
  5. Starter motor
Let's start with the battery. The quickest way to make your initial check of the entire starting system and particularly the battery is to get a jump. Yep, get some jumper cables and jump the mower off your car. Turn the key and try to start it in the normal fashion. If it starts cool! It is likely a bad battery.
  • Charge the battery for a few hours, on a charger.
  • Then perform a voltage measurement of the battery.
  • Switch a volt meter to DC Volts and clip it to the battery. It should read between 12-13 volts. If not the battery is suspect.
Now let's check the starting system while bypassing all the safety switches and wiring. How? You can perform this test simply by jumping the starter solenoid. Hold a wrench or fat screwdriver across the two large posts of the starter solenoid. This bypasses the key switch and all safety devices and directly drives the starter. Your starter will crank if the battery and starter are good, the wires and connections are good, and the engine is not locked up. Don't crank it for more that a couple seconds. You just want to verify the battery and the starter are both in good shape. (The engine will crank but not start during this test if the key is off, or if the safety switches or wiring are damaged, or if the safety switches are in the no start/run positions.)

If the starter cranks try one more test. Run a small jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to the little terminal on the solenoid. You may have to take the small wire off the terminal, on the starter solenoid, in order to do this. When you apply this current from the battery to the terminal it should make the solenoid activate and the starter crank. This test bypasses the key switch and shows you the starter system is working. You could do this test first; if it works you do not need to do the basic jump test.

If these tests cause the engine to crank, but it will not crank with the key, then you know you have a problem somewhere in your starter wiring, safety switch system, fuse, or in your Key Switch. Of course you did check the battery terminals for good connection, right?

Most modern riding mowers have the following safety switches:
  • Seat switch
  • PTO switch
  • Reverse switch (RIS) and Reverse Relay (RIO)
  • Brake/Clutch switch
If you need detailed instruction for testing your wiring and safety system, I will need your complete machine info.
  • Make
  • Model
  • Year
  • Engine Model
  • Transmission Model
  • Deck Size.

On a John Deere (100 series) the starting current flows through the following items in this order:
  1. Battery to Fuse then to the Key Switch.
  2. With key switch in the start position, the current flows from the Key Switch to PTO.
  3. With PTO off, current flows from the PTO to Brake/Clutch
  4. With Brake/Clutch Pedal all the way down, the current flows to the starter solenoid.
  5. If the Starter Solenoid is in good shape, the solenoid connects the battery to the Starter and the engine cranks. Cranking does not mean running; it just means the engine turns over. Running is dependent on many other systems.
That list of components are all part of the cranking/starting system. They can prevent the Starter Motor from cranking when you turn the Key Switch. You can trace the voltage with a multi meter.Connect the black lead to ground and look for 12 volts on each successive step.If the voltage disappears at one particular step, there is your suspect.

Electrical elements that are NOT part of the starting system:
The RIO is the Reverse Implement Option. It is a switch that latches and stays latched under certain conditions. It is activated by the RIS. The RIS is the Reverse Implement Switch. It activates the RIO. These two separate components work to allow the blades to cut while you are backing up (without killing the engine). They have nothing to do with the starting system.

The Seat and the RIO (the reverse latch not the button) switches are tied into the engine kill system.They provide a ground path for grounding the Coil. This same system controls the fuel shut off valve beneath the carburetor. The Seat and RIO can keep the engine from running but they will not prevent the Starter Motor from cranking. Therefore, if you turn the key and nothing happens, the problem has nothing to do with the Seat and Reverse switches.

Note: With the Key in the RUN position, power flows from the Key Switch to the Hour Meter, then to the RIO latch relay (not the RIS button), then to the fuel shut off solenoid. If you do not hear the Fuel Shut off Solenoid clicking on and off when you turn the Key Switch from off to run, there may be a problem in this circuit; including a possible problem in the Hour Meter. Of course none of this affects the cranking circuit. Your engine will still crank, it just won't run.

Apr 11, 2015 | Cub Cadet Garden

1 Answer

The machine will not start. Absolutely nothing when I engage the key. Battery good


When I turn the key nothing happens.
There are several elements that go into cranking (turning over) the engine.
  1. Battery
  2. Fuse
  3. Key Switch (and wiring)
  4. Starter Solenoid
  5. Starter motor
Let's start with the battery. The quickest way to make your initial check of the entire starting system and particularly the battery is to get a jump. Yep, get some jumper cables and jump the mower off your car. Turn the key and try to start it in the normal fashion. If it starts cool! It is likely a bad battery.
  • Charge the battery for a few hours, on a charger.
  • Then perform a voltage measurement of the battery.
  • Switch a volt meter to DC Volts and clip it to the battery. It should read between 12-13 volts. If not the battery is suspect.
Now let's check the starting system while bypassing all the safety switches and wiring. How? You can perform this test simply by jumping the starter. Hold a wrench or fat screwdriver across the two large posts of the starter solenoid. This bypasses the key switch and all safety devices and directly drives the starter. Your starter will crank if the battery and starter are good and the engine is not locked up. Don't crank it for more that a couple seconds. You just want to verify the battery and the starter are both in good shape. (The engine will crank but not start during this test if the key is off, or if the safety switches and wiring are damaged, or in the no start/run positions.)

If the starter cranks try one more test. Run a small jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to the little terminal on the solenoid. You may have to take the small wire off the terminal, on the starter solenoid, in order to do this. When you apply this current from the battery to the terminal it should make the solenoid activate and the starter crank. This test bypasses the key switch and shows you the starter system is working. You could do this test first, if it works you do not need to do the first more basic test.

If these tests cause the engine to crank, but it will not crank with the key, then you know that you have a problem somewhere in your starter wiring and safety switch system.

Most modern riding mowers have the following safety switches:
  • Seat switch
  • PTO switch
  • Reverse switch (RIS) and Reverse Relay (RIO)
  • Brake/Clutch switch
If you need detailed instruction for testing your wiring and safety system, I will need your complete machine info.
  • Make
  • Model
  • Year
  • Engine Model
  • Transmission Model
  • Deck Size.

On a John Deere (100 series) the starting current flows through the following items in this order:
  1. Battery to Fuse then to the Key Switch.
  2. With key switch in the start position, Key Switch to PTO.
  3. With PTO off, PTO to Brake/Clutch
  4. With Brake/Clutch Pedal all the way down, the current flows to the starter solenoid.
  5. If the Starter Solenoid is in good shape, the solenoid connects the battery to the Starter and the engine cranks. Cranking does not mean running; it just means the engine turns over. Running is dependent on many other systems.
This list of components are all part of the cranking/starting system. They can prevent the Starter Motor from cranking when you turn the Key Switch.

The RIO is the Reverse Implement Option. It is a switch that latches and stays latched under certain conditions. It is activated by the RIS. The RIS is the Reverse Implement Switch. It activates the RIO. These two separate components work to allow the blades to spin while going backwards (without killing the engine)

The Seat and the RIO (the reverse latch not the button) are tied into the engine kill system by grounding the Coil. This same system controls the fuel shut off value beneath the carburetor. The Seat and RIO can keep the engine from running but they will not prevent the Starter Motor from cranking. Therefore, it you turn the key and nothing happens, it has nothing to do with the Seat and Reverse switches.

Note: In the run position, from the Key Switch, power flows to the Hour Meter, then to the RIO latch relay (not the RIS button), then to the fuel shut off solenoid. If you do not hear the Fuel Shut off Solenoid clicking on and off when you turn the Key Switch from off to run, there may be a problem in this circuit; including a possible problem in the Hour Meter. Of course none of this affects the cranking circuit. Your engine will still crank, it just won't run.

Apr 10, 2015 | Garden

1 Answer

I have 2000 john deere 420 and it wont turn over


The starting circuit is dependent upon the clutch safety ans PTO being off. Here are some steps to take:
1. Ensure battery is fully charged
2. Turn key on and turn PTO on then back off. Listen for clunk
3. Press clutch in fully and turn key to start position. If still no sound at all, hold key in start position and move clutch foot up and down, listening for solenoid click. If click but no crank, starter or solenoid or battery cable connection is bad. Start by wiggling cables, looking for any looseness. Next check solenoid and cables. If that doesn't fix it, starter or solenoid may be bad. There may be a fuse in the circuit. Check them out also.
if it cranks but doesn't start, you have a fuel or ignition problem. Good luck. Let us know what you find

Jun 22, 2014 | John Deere 420,1020,2010,2020,2510,2520...

1 Answer

Tractor will not start....no sound when switch is turned to start. Battery has been fully recharged. All indicator lights appear normal, but no power is getting to the starter. Checked 20 amp fuse...good....


Hello Doug,
Check the obvious things first. PTO off, brake pedal depressed, someone on seat to activate seat switch. Then get a multimeter and check battery voltage at battery terminals. Then follow positive lead from battery to solenoid, check power there. Then turn key to start and hold that position and check voltage on other side of solenoid. Also, check power on small side terminal of solenoid when key is in start position too. This will tell you if power is getting to solenoid from keyswitch and if so, will also tell you if solenoid is not switching over. If not, solenoids are fairly cheap and easy to install. Just disconnect the battery before installing. Good luck, hope this helps!

Sep 24, 2013 | Garden

1 Answer

Battery good does not do anything when key turned on to start and sitting on seat and clutch brake depressed all the way


Souns like the PTO is either stuck in the on position or electrically shorted. Make sure the PTO is FULLY disengaged by moving the lever a few times. If yours is electric PTO, it's probably a short.

Aug 03, 2011 | Poulan 42-Inch Steel Deck 17.5 HP Briggs &...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Garden Logo

Related Topics:

278 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Cub Cadet Garden Experts

Tim Whalen

Level 3 Expert

3074 Answers

Matt Olenzek
Matt Olenzek

Level 2 Expert

293 Answers

roeb

Level 3 Expert

378 Answers

Are you a Cub Cadet Garden Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...