I have a F & P Double Drawer.
The top drawer seems to be jammed and the power to the top drawer will not turn on. I had to use excessive force to open it and close it and it apperas to be jamming ou rubbing at the top. There is water in the top drawer so the fault may have occured during wash.
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Re: I have a F & P Double Drawer. The top drawer
If none of the lights on the top drawer are on and it is not responding to the switches then the controller has lost power. This in turn has caused the lid seal motors to freeze and hence the reason why the drawer movement is stiff.
Controller power is lost if the thermal fuse located in the heater assembly is blown. This is a safety mechanism to protect the dishwasher if the temperature goes too high. Sometimes it can also mean the thermostat became faulty causing the heater to overheat.
In order to restore the controller power the heater assembly needs to be replaced as the thermal fuse is integral to it. This part looks like this. Once the power is restored to the controller then it will pull the lid motors back unless these are out of position which means the seal has to be opened and the motors repositioned.
Let me know if you want to fix this yourself or call the technician. I can give you some idea of how to access the heater assembly etc but it is not a trivial task to replace. The drawer is very compact and requires a fair bit of effort and patience to repair
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If this is a double drawer dishwasher and bottom drawing is functional but top drawer won't open means the controller on top drawer is faulty or power circuit is locked. If turning the mains power off and back on makes no difference then controller could be the problem. One way to test is to take the controller from bottom drawer and replace that in the top drawer. This requires a lot of patience and experience with electronic stuff. If you are not brave enough to test then call the technician. The controller is about $200 to buy. Make sure the mains power socket is taken out before working on the dishwasher internals.
Mine does the same thing! (Same model) I've finally discovered that if I start the bottom drawer first and the top drawer just after that doesn't happen as much. Also, if I run the garbage disposal (and water obviously) while it's starting (I will try to do my hand washing while the dishwasher is getting going) that seems to keep this from happening as well. I've given up running just one drawer, which totally defeats the purpose of buying the 2 drawer dishwasher. But it does keep me from having to bail the bottom drawer :-( I'd like a better solution to this too!
The thermal fuse that cuts of power to the drawer has been tripped. This means you will need to replace the heater assembly at the base of the drawer. It is not cheap - could set you back by $350-400 to replace.
To open the drawer you need to turn the mains power off and then simply pull the drawer out with a little force. The lid seal is jammed shut because the lid seal actuator motors are locked after the power failed. Do not shut the drawer back as this will damage the lid seal. You will have to call a technician to replace the heater assembly and restore power to the drawer. Hopefully the top drawer is working ok.
Assuming the bottom dishdrawer is working ok, it is likely the controller on the top drawer is either faulty or sensing some incorrect signal. If pressing any of the panel buttons makes no difference, then most likely the controller is faulty.
By the way I am unclear why you mention two models in your problem description. DD603 is a double drawer dishwasher and DS603 is a single drawer unit.
You could isolate the top drawer by taking the controller power cable out. DIsconnect mains power to dishwasher, open top drawer and remove front cover carefull after removing 2 plastic pins on each side with plier. Controller box is on left top side, remove bottom connector and cover with insulation tape. Put things back and turn power back on.
But if you want to find the fault with top drawer then that is very trick if there is no fault code on panel except beeping First clean the top panel inside door with a clean damp cloth. If this does not change the situation, then it is very likely the controller is detecting some faulty sensor - and will need to find one by one. Are you ready for it?
Not sure if the flood sensor will trip if the water is splashed into the mains plug. F1 can also occur if the power to the top drawer has failed. Flood sensor trips when water collects at the base of the dishwasher housing under the bottom drawer. I think the problem you mention has caused the power to the top drawer to fail due to a spike when the splash on the power plug occured. This is very easy to see. Check if the display on top drawer is blank.
Make sure that the retaining tabs on either side of the drawer at the lower front are engaged properly. They sometimes don't positively engage and you will feel the difference when the drawer is pushed. Undo the tabs and re-engage them a couple of times to check. The drawer should run smoothly without resistance when they are engaged correctly. Check how the lower drawer moves to compare.
If the drawer is returning smoothly but feels like it's striking resistance towards the rear just before it's fully home, it's likely that the hoses are kinking/fouling behind the drawer and/or that the linkage support is broken.
If you have this older style white plastic linkage rods that hold the hoses, I would strongly recommend replacing it. It's the white plastic rod that has clamps attached to it with all the power, inlet and drainage hoses running through it.
You can get the 'retro fit linkage support' from an authorised F&P parts supplier. This is a retro fit that has specifically been designed to overcome the shortfalls of the original plastic linkage support. This consists of a metal rod and mounting plate with takes over the function of the plastic drainage support.
There are detailed instrucitons with the retro fit support which explains how to fit it. It was well under $100 when I bought one and worth the investment.
Good luck and remember always turn the power off before attempting any repairs.
First is to make sure there is no leak.
Pull out the lower tube, access from the left side only this side you can put your hand in with a small tower to dry out the wetness if there is. If it is wet dry out really good then unplug the power cord for 24 hr. After that plug power cord back. Hold the lock button while press the Start button until you see a display appears. Press the Power button to see a clear display. Then hit Start button one by one until you see Ld ( it stands for Lid down) If you miss it, keep going until it comes back in a loop. When at Ld hit the lock button. Wait until the noise is stopping. Hit the lock button again. Wait until the noise is stopping. Now you can pull out the top drawer and press the power button to get out this manual mode.
I'm not really sure. With the double drawer configuration, I know the top drawer is larger than the bottom drawer. If I had to take a guess, I would say the single drawer might fit in the top of the double drawer.