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Looking for a TruScope part #74-4011 expandable arbor .22 - 7mm

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I bought an Ammco 4000 brake lathe and the arbor was not installed in it. The one they gave me has surface rust on it. It will not fit into the spindle either. I'm not sure on got the correct one. What is...


A standard arbor which you should have been provided with should look like this...

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The standard arbor size is 1 inch.
A used arbor is okay--but if it has rust on it, you should remove the rust with a wire-wheel mounted on a bench grinder (and be sure to use eye protection because fast spinning wire-wheels routinely throw off wires).

Any arbor (especially new arbors) have to be lapped into the spindle using a fine lapping compound which can be easily found at auto parts stores.

Apply a small amount of lapping compound onto the mating surface of the arbor and insert it into the spindle with the machine turning. Hold the arbor tight and let the lapping compound grind away for about 40 seconds.

Remove the arbor and reapply another small amount of lapping compound--repeat the grinding process one more time. Remove the arbor and using a rag clean the lapping compound from the arbor.

Clean the lapping compound from the outer spindle seat. The outer seat is easily accessed--the inner seat of the spindle is harder to access. This is cleaned by doubling a rag over the threaded end of the arbor. Holding the rag, insert the threaded end into the spindle and clean the inner seat.

Turn off the machine and insert the arbor into the spindle. Insert the spindle "draw bar" (which you should also have) through the hole in the drum gear box (Infimatic gearbox) on the right hand side of the machine.

Holding the drive pulley, tighten the draw bar.

Next you have to check the arbor run-out using a magnetically mounted dial indicator as shown....

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Mount the dial indicator on the machine's twin cutter (tightened down) and crank in the disc-feed carriage until the dial indicator can make contact with the arbor.

Start the machine. The arbor run-out should be no more than 1 1/2 thousandths. If the run-out exceeds greater than 8 thousandths it cannot be straightened. Arbor with slight run-out problems can be straightened.

(Note: If the dial indicator vibrates too much to get a reading--you will have to manually turn the machine using a wrench as described below).

First try loosening the draw bar, and rotating the arbor 180 degrees and then re-tightening the draw-bar. Many time this will solve the problem or at the very least lessen the run-out or bring it within spec.

If the arbor is still exceeds spec, then you have to straighten it. To straighten an arbor, manually turn the machine with the "Ammco wrench" (which you should also have) using the nut on the draw bar. Turn the machine until you find the high spot (straight up), then remove the dial indicator to prevent damage.

Using a copper dead blow hammer, give the arbor a modest whack, and then recheck the run-out. Repeat the process until you manage to get the arbor within spec.

Please note that straightening an arbor using this method will sometimes break the arbor off. You are rolling the dice when straightening an arbor--but this is the nature of the animal. Even brand new arbors sometimes need straightening.

If you need more questions answered contact us at...

http://www.brakelathe.net/

Mar 14, 2015 | Ammco Combination Disc/Drum Brake Lathe

1 Answer

I have a wobble at the chuck, seperated from the arbor the arbor it's self doesn't appear to be the problem when running alone. where should i be looking to correct this.


I would look at the taper shaft and the chuck jaws/chuck for the problem, Ii is very seldom that the internal socket for a tapered chuck/arbor to be bad it has to be on the outside.

Apr 06, 2011 | Craftsman Drills

1 Answer

10" tablesaw just started to


Hi, W/D here.
Unplug the saw first. Raise the plastic around the blade on the table and look first for material around the arbor, particularly slivers of wood. These can sometimes act as a "brake" and cause the machine to rotate slower. Clean out all sawdust and wood slivers. You can get most of it with a vacuum. While you have access to the arbor, rotate the arbor by hand, feeling for excessive resistance. You can lubricate the arbor with a light machine oil. Look at the belt, and test the tension by squeezing the belt toward the other side, in the middle between the pulley on the motor and the pulley on the arbor. It should squeeze in (deflect) about an inch or so, and be tight in it's position. If the quality of the belt is not up to par; if you feel that it is stretched, or is cracked or otherwise deteriorated, replace it. You can get replacement belts from auto parts stores, at a significantly lower price than ordering through Sears. They'll match you up. While the belt is off, blow the windings of the motor out with compressed air. Sawdust infiltrated into the motor can also cause the motor to run slower. Lastly, take a very close look at the blade. A dull blade will cut slower, and this is especially noticeable in wetter and harder woods. Examples of wetter wood would include treated lumber; harder woods would include species like oak. If the blade is dull, have it sharpened, or replace it.
Best regards, --W/D--

Mar 03, 2011 | Craftsman 10" Table Saw

1 Answer

Hi, we have a AMMCO 7750 brake lathe, the problem is runout in the ARBOR we have replaced the arbor but still have the same result. We are unsure of hat is causing this so any help or advise would be...


First off--your model Ammco is their "El-Cheapo" model.
Yeah, they work, when they work that is.
I doubt that your problem lies within the spindle bearings. But it could-- I suggest that you tug on the spindle to see if you get any back and forth end-play, or up and down play.... if so, you are screwed. This machine is not worth the effort, money and time fix this problem.

As for the arbor...

This model uses the same arbor that the better 3000, 4000, 4100, 7000 and 7100 models.

Every time you replace an arbor (new or used) you have to...

A. Lap the arbor into the spindle using lapping compound (just like lapping valves in a cylinder head) The lapping compound is then cleaned out of the spindle and off the arbor, then...

B. You then have to check the "runout" with a dial indicator. These are obtained cheaply at Harbor Freight FYI. With the dial indicator mounted (magnetically) on the twin-cutter check the arbor run-out. The runout (two inches from the spindle) should be no more than 1 1/2 thousandths. One thousandth or under is optimal. Any reading over 8 thousandths cannot be straightened.

C. If the run out exceeds 1 1/2 thousandths, you have to then straighten the arbor.

To straighten the arbor you will again need the dial-indicator and a heavy copper hammer....

With a wrench on the end of the draw bar (far right on the end of the drum gearbox), rotate the machine (counter clockwise) until you find the high spot on the arbor (carefully watching the dial-indicator).

Remove the dial indicator and give the arbor a whack with the hammer (not too hard if this is your first time) when the high spot is directly straight up.

Install the dial-indicator and check the run-out again.

Sometimes you will get it on the first whack--sometimes you will have to go through an ordeal until you get the arbor in spec.

And remember--sometimes you can bust the arbor completely off on the first whack. They are hardened and allegedly tempered, but some are more hard than others. If it breaks off--tough luck. You need to get another arbor.

I have personally straightened arbors more than 30 thousandths out (once)... and I don't want to repeat that ordeal. Sometimes arbors cannot be straightened (bent in strange ways) and cannot be straightened.

When loosening a rotor, do not allow the work to dump onto the arbor. This is the main reason they go out of whack.

Buy Sell Used Brake Lathes Brake Lathe Parts

Jun 29, 2010 | Ammco Combination Disc/Drum Brake Lathe

1 Answer

My saw problem has to do with changeing the blade. I'm useing a thin kirf blade. When I change the blade I have to put a wrench on the arbor next to the pulley to keep the arbor shaft from turning when I...


The nut is binding on the arbor because the threads are buggered up or clogged with something. It could be the nut (which is probably brass and soft) or the arbor (which is steel). If it got a little cross threaded, the damage will be on the nut. It might be the arbor if the arbor took a whack. Once you have it apart you should be able to see it - although the damage might be pretty small. You aren't likely to have a tap and die to run through the threads, but you can probably fix it with a little rotary tool (like a dremel) using a small disc. If it is the arbor you can use a triangular file. Or you can buy a new nut. I hope this helps.

May 17, 2010 | Craftsman 10" Table Saw

1 Answer

How to change arbor and flange on delta unisaw. I would like to know if special tools required


You can change your arbor. See my Youtube short videos by searching delta arbor bearing. They detail removing the arbor bearings and installing new. This is the same process you would use to replace the arbor. There are special tools that I recommend.
Jim

Feb 03, 2010 | Delta Saws

1 Answer

Manual for #103.0205 circ. saw


Earlier comment 103.0205 Table Saws does not need lubrication is simply wrong.

The103.0202, 103.0203, 103.0305 Craftsman Companion Table Saws main Arbor axle DOES have to lubricated or else the axle bearing will quickly loosen side-to-side or vertically and fail to provide accurate saw cuts.

FWIW, Sears no longer sells Arbor Axle replacement parts... The Table Saw Arbor axle and Bearing Housing cannot use sealed bearings unless the saw case is re-milled and extensively modified. There are 2 Oil Hole Plugs (part# 475-32) that need to be opened and oil applied so the Arbor axle shaft does not get scored or worn.

I use 30wt motor oil to relube the Arbor Axle Shaft depending on amount of use, temperature, and axle rotation stiffness.

Remember, the higher the RPM speed of the table saw motor and/or the longer the use, the more frequently you may need to relube the Arbor Axle Bearing!

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Nov 19, 2009 | Sears Saws

1 Answer

How do I replace my mitre saw blade?


It should still easily fit a 5/8" blade. The arbor shape shouldnt have any effect on the type of arbor hole needed on the saw blade (only round arbor holes are made on saw blades. You will probably find the arbor securing nut has a shape that fits into the flat gaps between the saw blade and the arbor when fixed. So grab a 5/8" round arbor saw blade and give it a go. It should work fine.
It is the arbor nut that secures the blade onto the arbor via friction which holds it on.

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May 29, 2009 | Ryobi ZRTS1342L Factory-Reconditioned 14...

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