Question about Shimano Brake Cables Atb Mountain Bike Cable Box 100 Ss

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Gear cable snapped leaving nipple and tiny bit of cable in the break lever and gear change mechanism. Unable to operate.How do I take it to bits?

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Remove the barrel, which is in your brake lever and insert a new cable. If you don't have the tools, just go to your local bike shop and have them do it, it shouldnot be expensive. It is a minor repair and your life depends on it being done right.

Posted on Oct 04, 2010

  • Mary Dunn Oct 29, 2010

    Sorry for being honest, but your brakes are important, just too bad you feel it was bad advice.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Yamaha 55hp outboard seems too be stuck in forward gear any ideas what could be wrong ?


When you take foot off can you change gears if you turn gear change shaft with pliers or vice grip ? To install,make sure gearbox is in forward and controls are in forward,can be a bit difficult if this is your first time. Upper gear change shafts can also corrode and twist or break. Don't force gearbox on as you can snap aluminium bracket that sits under bottom carb.

Aug 20, 2014 | Boating

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How do you adjust the clutch on a 2000 golf se tdi 1.9


Renew the clutch cable its a auto adjust mechanism and the cable comes with a plastic tie around the middle bit so fit the cable and then and only then remove the tie ,this is a difficult job and not easy for a weekend mechanic so be warned

Mar 01, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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Gear lever moves up and down only - can select neutral and third only


gear change cable has either come loose or broke one or the other and you can only buy the cables as a pair and around 200euro mark ,not difficult to change but dealer only part so expensive although all the cables used on these cars are actually made in england around basingstoke area if i remember rightly ,best advice is to ask a local mechanic to have a look to confirm my diagnosis

Dec 09, 2013 | Peugeot 505 Cars & Trucks

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Gear selection, unable to engage any gear


IF a cable selector check for missing pin or broken cable or loose outer cable. If mechanical selector check for broken arms or rods

PLEASE RATE THIS REPLY FOR ACCURACY

Mar 24, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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I have a problem. I have a 94 lincoln. It wont go into gear. The automatic gear shift drops all the way down with no shifting


Most likely, either the shift tube is damaged/broken or the screws have backed out of the lever at the end of the shift tube that the shift cable connects to. If the shift lever feels really "floppy", then you probably have a broken shift tube. You will probably have to pull the steering column down to get a good look at the shift tube to see if it is broken and to see how much play is in the shift tube bushings. Also look to see if the lever at the end of the shift tube is loose (shift cable lever).

A little word of caution: If you take the steering column down, be sure to disconnect the shift indicator cable first so it does not get broken. There is a tiny screw in the plastic braket that must be removed then the cable loop will simply slip off of the nipple on the shift tube arm.

Anyway, you will need a T-30 torx bit to work on the shift tube, the shift tube bushings and the lever at the end of the shift tube.

I made you a graphic below to help you understand what I am saying. Please note that it is NOT necessary to remove the steering wheel to do this, but you will need to remove the upper steering column shrouds if the shift tube bushings are loose.




dttech_50.jpg

Sep 23, 2011 | 1994 Lincoln Town Car

1 Answer

My mate changed my clutch with a new set,new cable etc.. But its so hard to switch gear,looks like it has not enough pull distance,now after changing the settings a bit its in gear and when pulling the...


Did you set up the clutch mechanism/pushrod correctly? Where the clutch cable goes into the engine you need to remove the cover to access it. First off, set some freeplay into the cable by either/and adjusting the lower end of the cable or at the lever.
Once done, under the cover you will see a lock nut on the end of a shaft with a slot in it for your screwdriver. Slacken the lock nut. Turn the shaft in (clock wise) until you just feel resistance. Now back it out half a turn. Secure the lock nut ensuring the centre shaft does not turn. Now set the freeplay in the cable to give a few mm's play at the lever (you may be able to acheive this with just the knurled adjuster at the lever end, if not use the inline adjuster at the point where the cable goes into the engine cover). Make sure this is right before the hassle of checking the plates.

Feb 12, 2011 | 1980 Suzuki GS 750 L

1 Answer

'78 VW TYPE 2 SHIFT COUPLER?


Short answer...not too tough.
Longer more useful answer...
Get quality urethane replacement.
Put car in 1st with gear lever.
Block wheels and climb under with (I think10mm and 13mm) wrenches.
Undo grub screw on coupler (to linkage).
Undo through bolt on coupler.
Push linkage forward and remove bits.
Replace bits with new ones and replace through bolt.
Have friend carefully put shift lever in about 1st gear position and guide coupler onto other shaft.
Tighten grub screw.

Aug 03, 2009 | 1986 Volkswagen Wagon Camper

1 Answer

Ford Probe tapping.


That's actually nothing to worry about. It's actually a butterly valve in your intake. I have a 96 gt, and used to have a 93 gt. My buddy had a 95 gt, and all of those cars had the same sound. It's loud and annoying, I know, but there is no way around it. What you can do to prove that is the problem (which I'm sure it is), is look at your intake plenum. Look at where your throttle cable meets your throttlebody. There is a little arm attached to a solonoid (air actuated) that is close to the firewall, and toward the passanger side on the throttlebody. The lever rests on a little metal nipple that sticks out of the cast. you can move it back and fourth. Run your car, and lift that lever just a tiny bit until you hear the noise go away. What I did was put a tiny bit of solder on the nipple where the arm rests to keep it up that tiny bit so the noise would'nt be there anymore.

If that doesn't solve it, then you may have a bad valve.

Jul 11, 2009 | 1995 Ford Probe

1 Answer

Golf 1 jerking on 3rd and 4th gear


You Think your mechanic did not Connect your distributor cables.

Jun 11, 2009 | 1995 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Start up problem


With the help of google here is your answer

Your arm of cover sensor has fallen off'

It is the switch fallen to bits

This switch
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THis bit falls off
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How yours looks
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How it should be, or can be if you put it together again.
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It might be possible to snap the part back on without partial disassembly, or simply shove something in there to hold the sensor in the 'closed' possition (If you lose a finger or two using this method, don't blame me)







The lid sensor is a tiny microswitch that is on the main circuit board...there is a white nylon lever arm snapped onto the switch.

if the lever arm falls off (like mine did) the 'cover open' error will last forever.

This may (or may not) be possible do fix without some disassembly. This lever arm should stick up through a rectangular hole that's approximately 1/2" to the right of the print head (assuming print head is parked in the middle) and behind it.

Most likely if your lever arm has fallen off, shaking the printer gently upside down with the cover open will allow it to fall out.

Now if you are a dentist or a surgeon, snapping the lever bit back on is no problem without taking anything apart.

I am neither. For the brave (of foolish) ones who like to do surgery, here goes. Here's how I took mine apart....if yours breaks into a million bits, don't blame me.

0) unplug the power and take the scanner cover off.

1) release the 'kickstand' from the scanner by prying and squeezing it with pliers until the two prongs pop out (or crack and break)

2) detach the scanner hinges by prying/squeezing with pliers until they pop off (or crack and break). (CAUTION: read step 3 below first...don't just yank the scanner off without reading step 3)

3) Carefully unplug ribbon cable and other connector to scanner and set scanner aside.

4) remove screws at front of beige plastic part....pry at the back carefully and this will pop off....sending the screws flying if you left them loose in their little wells. Don't worry, there are only two of them that really do anything anyway.

5) Look towards the rear of the printer and you will see the circuit board and the 'hole' where you can see the sensor, and possibly your white nylon lever arm lying pathetically down in the bowels of the printer.

6) Retrieve and Carefully snap the nylon lever arm back on, and think nasty thoughts about the brainiac who designed that part.

reverse the above steps. Put at least most of the screws back in, or the front panel may fall off at a later date.

Take care to GENTLY plug the ribbon cable and the other scanner connector back in, making sure it's seated all the way. Try not to bend or kink the end of it, or it will be toast.

Good luck, and happy lexmarking.....

Jan 01, 2008 | Lexmark X3470 All-In-One InkJet Printer

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