Question about Roper RES7646KQ Electric Dryer

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The drum does not move(it does turn by hand). the vent fan and heating elements work. along w/ all controls. cannot locate how it is driven?

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  • Roper Master
  • 7,482 Answers

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Posted on Oct 05, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Replaced heating element but same problem reoccured, no heat and red empty water light comes on, tried resetting elements as instructed but no pin hole on new element


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum 9 this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE





Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc

A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times.
A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit.
In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.

The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them.
DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.

The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!

To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following
Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.




How to Check Dryer Thermistor eHow

Jan 11, 2016 | Indesit IS70C Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer does not dry well , an the turn knob does not turn while the dryer is on towards turnning off.


Lint Trap

The lint trap is a metal screen with a plastic handle that is located either near the corner at the top of your dryer, or inside the dryer door. In most cases, the lint trap is clearly marked. If your clothes are not drying properly, this is the first place to look because it is the easiest problem to solve. Remove the lint from your lint trap, and then see if your clothes get dry. If they do not, move to the next troubleshooting problem.
Vent Hose

To work properly, a dryer needs to be able to vent warm air. If the vent hose is clogged, bent or has a hole in it, your dryer will not work properly. Examine the vent hose to see if it is installed completely over the dryer exhaust vent, and to make sure it does not have a hole in it. Remove the vent hose to see if it is clogged. There are vent hose brushes you can purchase to clean the vent hose properly. Also check the exhaust vent on the dryer and the outside vent to make sure they are not clogged.

Thermal Fuse

If you have been running your dryer with a clogged vent hose for a while, you may burn out the thermal fuse. A burnt thermal fuse will allow the dryer drum to rotate, but the unit will not heat up. Your owner's manual will show you where the thermal fuse is and provide the part number you need to buy to replace it. Thermal fuses are available at most hardware stores and are easy to replace.
Heating Element

The heating element is the long, coiled wire in the dryer that heats up the air. Over time, the heating element can burn out or become defective. In some models, the heating element can be repaired; in other models, the heating element should be replaced. Refer to your user's manual to see where your heating element is and whether you can repair it or need to replace it.

Jan 09, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

My kenmore 70 series dryer is working but no heat


The heating element in the dryer is got short and causing this problem. If the heating element checks out ok then its faulty timer motor causing the problem.this 2 parts are to be checked.First the heating element and next the timer control board motor. Locate the heating coil for the dryer along the back of the appliance behind the drum. The coil resembles a large, stretched spring.Check the back of the dryer to see if the heater coil is warming up while the dryer operates. Keep hands clear of the dryer at all times while inspecting the coil. If it does not begin to show obvious signs of warmth within one minute, the coil is likely burned out and must be replaced.You can also test it with meter.If there is no continuity the element is confirm faulty and needs replacement.--------- You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com .--------- this should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Jan 26, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Not Heating


there could be a problem with one of the thermal fuses located in the cabinet under the drum and along the side of the heating element can. the first one to check is the one furthest back on the can.
you can check them all for continuity and replace the one that is bad also check the heating element last.

Feb 23, 2010 | Samsung DV448AEE Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do I get to the thermal fuse on Whirlpool electric dryer LER4634EQ0


All the heating and temperature control components are located in the back of the dryer. To access, unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Turn the the dryer around so you can view the back and remove the back panel. With the panel removed, the component locations are as follows:

Right-Hand Side:

1. Heating element - located inside the heater box. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is about 9 to 13 ohms.

2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

3. Hi-Limit Thermostat - located on the outside of the heater box adjacent to the heating element terminals. It works in conjunction with the TCO to help regulate the drum internal temperature. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, it is recommended that you replace BOTH components to prevent premature failure. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

Left-Hand Side:

1. Thermal Fuse - located on the blower fan housing. It is a small white plastic looking component with two wires attached. If defective, the dryer will not run at all. If the component is good it should read a short (0 ohms).

2. Internal Bias Thermostat - located on the blower fan housing adjacent to the Thermal Fuse. It has four wires attached to it.

NOTE: All resistance checks should be performed with the component terminal wires disconnected to prevent false readings.

If you have any questions, you can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you. The components I mention are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat replacement kit
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat sold separately
Item 17 - Heating Element
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Internal Bias Thermostat

If you need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 23, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Replaced the heating element what ever its called. and still not heating up' its politless


Disclaimer: I don't know this particular model, but in general, tumble dryers have 2 or 3 interlock switches that need to be checked:
1. Door interlock: this allows the drum motor and fan to energise and the heating element to be turned on: Does drum turn and fan come on? If so, it is not this.
2. Overheat switch: located in exhaust path of fan: usually re-settable - have you located this and reset it?
3. Humidity sensor (some models have this, some work on time only) - this can fail open circuit and the drum and fan won't come on. (Same check as number 1)

Jul 29, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

2004 Honda Element has no cabin heat


check your fuses sound like its your blower motor.good luck happy holiday

Dec 22, 2008 | 2003 Honda Element

2 Answers

The tumble dryer does not dry The heater element warms up The fan motor is turning but no heat gets into the drum. Bosch Classixx wash and dry


does the element heat up then turn right back off after a few seconds? if so, there is 2 sensors that control the heat element, one is in the duct right after the fan. when this sensor senses too hot, it will shut down the heat element. either your sensor is bad, or the lint is not getting out, causing the heat to build up in the duct.

Oct 27, 2008 | Bosch Washing Machines

1 Answer

Dryer wont turn on


This is usually a symptom of a thermal fuse that has blown. A blown thermal fuse is a symptom of other problems (usually). That is to say that they generally blow for a reason. The most common cause is a dirty dryer and/or clogged vent duct. If it's been a while since you've cleaned your dryer and/or the vent duct, you might want to do so BEFORE you replace a thermal fuse. Or, the problem will persist. If your heating element is in the rear of the dryer, the thermal fuse will be located on the blower fan housing on the left hand side of the dryer. It is white in color. If the heating element is located inside the dryer under the drum, the thermal fuse will be located on the blower fan housing right under the drum in the front of the dryer. The fuse should read a short. If it does not, you need to replace it. It is not resettable. Let me know if you have any further questions. I hope this helps you.

Sep 14, 2007 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Aquarius 1200 wd62 - Dryer not working


Most likely it is some sort of blockage in the vent, although it could be a bad blower. Check the lint filter and vent openings for a blockage.

Jul 27, 2007 | Hotpoint Aquarius WD63 Front Load...

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