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The drive motor stopped running while welding. I shut it off and it has been off for five hours and the drive motor does not run. The solenoid inside the welder clicks when I hit the trigger on the torch handle. This has happened before and the welder had to be sent back for repairs. Do you know what causes this? Thanks

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You didn't indicate what model number machine you have. One must remember the smaller machines don't have a 100% duty cycle and can over heat. If your welding wire jams in the cable, or at the tip the drive motor can overload. Some models have a little reset button near the motor that can be reset if that is the problem.
If this information was helpful to you, please don't forget to rate or comment. Thanks!

Posted on Oct 08, 2010

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I have a Lincoln vantage 300 diesel welding machine with kubota engine when I go to start it will start then shut right off but if you hold in start button it will run Need Help


check the operation of the start switch as the circuit to keep it running ( stop solenoid circuit) is not operational
could be a fuse in that circuit or a broken/ missing wire

Jan 24, 2017 | Lincoln Cars & Trucks

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97 Chrysler.cirrus starts runs good,when you shut it off it won restart unless it sets for about an hour. Head lights,over head light, Windows ,dash light all work ,but it won't crank over.


Starter motors and solenoids often sieze when hot towards the end of their service life. You may need to replace the starter. How many times will it start in a row Without running it long enough to heat up. If it will start four or five times cold then fail after warming up and the alternator is charging the battery at 13.5- 15 volts you got a bad starter.

Dec 29, 2016 | 1997 Chrysler Cirrus

1 Answer

Craftsman 100ac infinant amp arc welder just stopped working ....the fan still runs. anybody know what's wrong with it????


probably over heated and blew the reset button
100 amp welders have a duty cycle ( time in actual welding use ) of less than 20%
that means for welding for five minutes you have to let it cool down for 20 minutes
the lower the amps the longer you can weld for
beware tat the total amperage of the welder does not mean that you can weld for a long time at that amperage
on the plate on the welder is the duty cycle and you have to be aware of it or the machine will shut down

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When I try to start my tractor it just keeps turning over but doesn't start. The only way I can get it to stop turning over is to pull the battery cable. Any suggestions?


For a more specific answer post the following information: Make/Model/Year/Engine Model/Deck Size, and hours on meter if you have one. A short description of the events preceding the beginning of the problem is also helpful.

The following generic information applies to just about every riding mower out there.

When you turn your key many things happen. One of those happens only when you turn all the way to start. In this position current, from the battery, travels down a small wire to your "starting solenoid". You can find this solenoid by following the very large wire backwards from your starter motor on the side of the engine. This very large wire carries a lot of current from the solenoid. Follow the wire down and you will come to a small, somewhat cylindrical device. It's about the size of a large pill bottle; maybe a big bottle of aspirin.

This little device has a magnetically operated plunger inside. When you turn your key the current running down a small wire comes to this solenoid. As it passes through the solenoid it activates the electro-magnet inside. That magnet pushes two thick contacts together. Those contacts bridge the gap between the two large threaded posts that you see on the end of the solenoid.
One of the two large posts has a heavy, thick, wire coming from the battery. The other post has the wire that goes to the starter. While the (internal) contactor bridges the gap between these posts, lots of electrical current flows through the big wires. This causes the starter to turn.

When you release the key from the start position, back to the run position, the internal contactor is pushed away from the posts by a spring. That causes the starter motor to cease turning. It sounds like the spring is broke or the contacts are mildly welding themselves together. In other words the internal contactor is stuck in the "on" position and this keeps supplying current to the starter.

The first problem, broken spring, is the easiest to fix. Just replace the solenoid. There are no internal serviceable parts.

The second problem "internal welding". That might also be fixed by replacing the solenoid. However there is a chance that this is being caused by the starter drawing too many amps or too much current (that's basically the same thing). You will need to test the amperes being drawn by the starter with a clamp style amp-meter. You might have to replace or service the starter. If the starter is drawing too many amps, a new solenoid will likely solve the problem for a while, but then it too will start to weld. Additionally, a bad starter pulling too many amps will damage the battery in a short period of time. You may have to replace both the solenoid and the starter.

One test you should perform is a voltage measurement of the battery while the starter is cranking. Switch a volt meter to DC Volts and clip it across the battery. It should read between 12-13 volts. Leaving the meter connected to the battery, crank the engine. If battery voltage drops below 9 volts when cranking, or while the engine is running, the fuel solenoid will not function. That means the engine will not start or will die soon after starting. So check your battery voltage before, during, and after cranking. If the battery voltage is good (12.4 or greater volts) before, but drops near or below 9 volts while cranking, this is generally a sign the battery has one or more bad cells. Replace the battery. If the battery is in fact good and the voltage is still dropping you may have a bad starter motor which is drawing too much amperage.

Note: many systems have a fuel shut off solenoid. This is a small black cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor. It has two wires running to it. It should make an audible click when you turn the key on.

Another possibility is the Key Switch. The Key Switch may have broken up inside and the multiple terminals which provide current to multiple devices on the tractor have become misaligned. This could cause both of the symptoms you described. The engine won't start AND the starter won't quit. If the terminals are faulty other parts of the system may not be engaging and the engine will not have the proper electrical connections for running. Additionally, the starter solenoid may still be getting current while the key is in the run position.

TEST KEY SWITCH
Put meter in the DC volt position. Disconnect the small wire from the solenoid. Connect one meter lead (red) to this wire and connect the other meter lead (black) to the negative post on the battery. You should see the following:
  1. Key off - No volts
  2. Key in Run position - No volts
  3. Turn and hold key in start position - you should read 12+ volts
  4. Release key back to run position - it should go back to No volts.
If your readings are like this the Key switch is good. If there is voltage present in the Run position, your key switch is bad. Replacing it will fix the problem.

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1 Answer

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there is a voltage regulator directly above the electric fuel pump on this welder, make sure the three connectors are making good contact, there are three wires attached to it, the center conductor is either violet or blue, if the spade terminals are not making proper contact your machine will shut down as you state
you may also have a "sticking" or faulty fuel stop solenoid
if after you remove and check the connectors at the voltage regulator, the problem persists, locate the local Kohler dealer, your engine has a 3 year warranty for parts and labor

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1 Answer

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Lookfor a light on the dash that says SECURITY or ANTITHEFT. If you see this light, that is a sign of a failed or failing antitheft system, which will disable your vehicle. This link explains

http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

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it sounds like the starter solenoid contacts are not separating to stop the starter from turning.the run on is due to the starter not stopping causing the motor to continue to spin.replace the starter unit as it will have damage due to being engaged with the motor running,also have the flywheel inspected to make sure the teeth are not damaged on it.

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1 Answer

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Sounds like the relay contacts are bent or welded closed or the solenoid is stuck. Check the solenoid first by removing the small wire from it and seeing if the starter stops turning. If it does not stop, the contacts in the solenoid are stuck closed.

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