However, if it is the ORIGINAL motor, check the dual run capacitor for proper microferrad value. It may be that it is swelled up on top and that is a direct indication it is a fouled capacitor. If the top is not pregnant or swelled, and it still looks like the top of a soda pop can, you will need a microferrad meter.
Disconnect ALL power to the condensing unit. If in doubt, kill the power to home. Remove 1 wire from the capacitor, the brown one or the one that is marked "FAN" and set your meter to Mfd, measure with your leads the value between the COMMON and FAN terminals. They should be within 6% of the rating on the capacitor. There is no rule of thumb here, you must know the correct value and see if it is equal or within the 6%. If it is under the 6%, you will need to replace the DUAL RUN CAPACITOR. No question, because it is a dual run cap, it controls the Compressor also. Best to change the whole capacitor with that of equal value.
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Yes. The fan is designed to draw air through the condensing unit to expel heat generated by compression and heat exchange in the refrigeration system. If the fan is running the wrong way, heat will not be disipated correctly and the unit will not operate efficiently. You could end up damaging the system.
On of the common problem with centralized A/C unit is a bad condenser fan. I have known people who called an ac technician to fix their ac because of a bad condenser fan and suggested replacing the whole unit! Costing them a lot of money when all it needed was a 50 dollars condenser fan! If the condenser fan do not run or it runs only when you give it a push, it'sbad. You will also notice that it is vey hot. When replacing a condenser fan you may want to replace the starting capacitor too. Replacing a condenser fan is not very hard, just make sure that the power to the ac unit is turned off at the breaker box. Confirm that the wires are not live by using a meter or an ac tester. The fan motor are held with brakets sometimes just screws. Most fan you can buy that has reversible rotation by just reversing the plug. Make sure it is blowing upwards. If not reverse the rotation. So if you notice that the unit is not putting out cold enough air and you went outside and noticed the compressor running but not the fan, turn off the AC right away and do not use it untill the fan is replaced. Running the unit with a defective fan can damage the compressor caused by overheating.
Fan motors have rotations, clockwise and counter clockwise, lead end and opposite lead end. If you are looking at the motor from the fan blade side and the wires are on the back (opposite) side of the motor then you are looking at opposite lead end. Then you need to determine the rotation of the blade. It will scoop the air, so turning the blade that direction will give you the rotation. They also sell motors that you can change rotation by changing certain wires they have added.
When you replace a motor you need to notice the rotation and order that rotation. which end of the motor you are looking at to determine it. Then order the same rotation when buying the new one.
the answer to your problem is most likely the motor start capacitor. A AC motor can run in both directions. The start capacitor is used to cause the current to lag behined the voltage which determines the direction the motor will turn. Its posible the start and run capacitors are in one can. so changing one will change the other. However look for a wiring diagram. Do not asume that both capacitors are wired in properly. They may be fighting one another causeing premature failure.
the cause of your indoor fan running all the time or for long time after your heat pump has stopped heating is the fan delay relay. It has welded its internal contacts together. If you take off the side below the control panel, the fan delay relay is normally mounted on the header where the fan discharges. Good news, the fan delay relay are fairly inexpensive and easily to change.
As far as the condensing fan motor not running at full speed, when it was changed, did the technician install the correct fan motor. Most condensing fan motors are either 875 rpm or 1175 rpm. They are exactly the same size and if the technician did not look closely he could have installed the wrong rpm motor. There is another possibility, he may have used the wrong capacitor. I have seen the condensing fan actually operate backwards at a lower than normal rpm. The fan if properly installed will discharge air upwards.
Well, the answer is yes. I have seen a bad capacitor cause a fan motor to run backwards. BUT..... After replacing the capacitor and WIRING it up the right way, everything should be fine. A lot of aftermarket condenser fan motors are reversible, so it can run counter-clockwise (CCW) or clock-wise (CW). However, most factory fan motors come one directional and on your specific unit, the air should always push out of the top. Running the unit with the fan going backwards will actually some-what do it's job, but damage other components like the compressor because it runs at higher operating pressures than what it is designed for.
Have someone else look at it! That's going to be the best advice I can give you. If they can prove that a capacitor caused the motor to permanently run backwards..... I want to know! Hope this helps and good luck with your unit.
The fan motor can be wired correctly for up flow and still run backwards for downward flow or reverse when you put the wrong value capacitor or connect a hard start capacitor to an already bad start dual cap. Case in point: I come across a condenser where the fan motor is running (in the right direction, up) but the compressor is not. I put a hard start cap on the dual cap. The compressor comes on but now the fan motor runs reverse. No other wiring was changed. The hard start cap connected to the defective compressor start cap shifted the current, voltage phase 180 degrees to make the fan motor run backwards. I removed the hard start cap, removed the defective dual cap and replaced the dual cap with a known good one and everything worked correctly.
Step by step look for the obvious such as; is the condenser clean on the unit outside the box, is the condenser fan motor running, is the coil inside iced up. These are common problems with freezers.
If the coil is frosted over the problem may be related to the defrost timer. Rotate the timer as per the arrows to the defrost position to defrost. This should cause the coil to defrost. If this does defrost the coil replace the timer.
If the condenser fan motor does not rotate with the compressor running, rotate the fan blade manually, if it is the least bit tight the bearings may be dry or gummed up, oil the motor with non-detergent oil SAE-20.