Question about Coleman Powermate Proforce 6,000 Watt 12 Hp Portable Generator #PM0106000

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Proforce 6500, man start, w/wheels kit. Bought new in July 2007. Ran perfectly for 3 years....got out to run in power outage last week, almost didn't get it started, finally got started, used 5 hours, turned off, put away, all gas ran out thru carb. Local Small engine shop says can't buy carb kit, have to buy WHOLE CARB! which is about $200! only paid $600 for gen brand new...any help / ideas?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

FRANKSFIXIT
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: Colemen powermate Generator 6875w 5500

GENSET ALL PROBLEM FIXES - 2 PARTS

My answer:

Almost 90-95% of all the Genset problems found by the factory approved Genset Service Centers are related to the fact that people don't read the OWNERS MANUAL first, and just didn't put OIL in the Genset (or the right amount) - as they are shipped from the MFR without OIL in the units to begin with!!!! (See esp #3 and Final Notes below as well)

And here I thought everybody KNEW THAT!!

I guess sometimes you just have to ask the most OBVIOUS ??'s first huh (dumb as " it " may sound)?

If you bought your Genset from other then a Home Depot Store, and it's still under warranty - then you will have to contact that outlet, and see what they have to say or hopefully can do for you.

Esp all those Gensets that are Made in China and have flooded the USA market in the last 10 years or so - no thanks to our representatives in WASH DC that's for sure. It's a wonder this country even functions with all this "inferior" Made in China JUNK that keeps prematurely failing before it's normal time. Sad to say the least!

Some other obvious things to CHECK for that may be the cause of a NO start condition even after adding proper gas & oil to the brand new Genset:

1 - Some Genset gas tanks come with a gas cap "blocking insert" under the gas cap that should be removed according to your manual if it states this. (Read manual section on "First Time Starting")

2 - Is the gas tank shutoff valve FULLY OPEN? By the same token (even if the Genset is or isn't brand new) does it have an in-line fuel filter anywhere in the gas line? If not then esp read #5. Always check as well the AIR FILTER for proper cleanliness (if oiled type), or clean appearance if it's a paper element type. Clean or replace as needed!

3 - Is the RUN SWITCH set to ON or RUN position (this is purely an "Electrical ON-OFF Switch" usually a single-pole single-throw type btw, and it can go bad with high usage)? Does it move freely from OFF to ON? Is it working properly? Test it using a known good quality DVM or OHM meter! It's contacts may have become tarnished just from sitting around too long? Esp where you have saltwater conditions in the surrounding air! This switch actually & electronically is wired in REVERSE so that when switched to the ON position the wired contacts are OPEN thus letting the Ignition Coil fire for SPARK. When switched to the OFF position the wired contacts are now CLOSED thus connecting (or switching) the "Control Board" logic voltage signal (usually anywhere from +3 to +12 VDC upon start-up) to GROUND - thus cutting the RUN voltage to the Ignition Coil fire - as in SHUTDOWN. On some model designs there also may be a separate IDLE CONTROL SWITCH and POWER REGULATOR BOARD for better POWER LOAD self-regulation depending on constant variable loads placed on the Genset as related to the work-site demands. If there is NO VOLTAGE OUTPUT but yet good engine RPM function - then I would look at this part first and then #8.

4 - Is the choke being set to the proper position with or without using Ether spray to the Carb?

5 - Does the Carb have a Yellow or Black wire coming off of the bottom of the Float Bowl? This goes to the GAS CUT OFF SOLENOID mounted in the Main Jet inside the Float Bowl. NEVER CUT THIS WIRE as some know-nothings have suggested here and elsewhere in postings, as there are better ways to test the solenoid without doing that! If equipped with one - This anti-dieseling solenoid has to work properly or else flooding will occur with the gas shutoff valve OPEN.

6 - VERY IMPORTANT - Is the Carb Float stuck in the CLOSED position not letting gas into the Main Jet? If the Genset is brand brand new and truly has never been fired up even once and used, such as like that of 2-3 years or longer from actual date of purchase, then that Carb Float may very well be stuck CLOSED. Worse yet - the Main Jet may be clogged with MICRO DEBRIS coming down from the new gas tank - esp if there is NO FUEL FILTER present in the fuel line. I've heard of this happening more then just a few times myself. You might try and TAP CAREFULLY on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the stuck Float inside. If there is that colored WIRE (see #5 again) at the bottom of the Float Bowl on your model - DO NOT HIT THAT GAS SHUT-OFF SOLENOID WITH THE RUBBER HAMMER - as you WILL damage it! If this dislodges the stuck Carb Float to the point that the Genset now wants to run to some degree better then before, but not fully 100% better and to spec - then you definitely still have Carb Float and/or fuel delivery related issues, and/or MICRO DEBRIS in the Carb Bowl or Main Jet inlet. If the Genset begins to run great - as it should - and continues to do so - then your NO FUEL or NO RUN problem is solved! I would still take the Carb Bowl off and clean out the whole Assy there just as an added precaution anyway as you just never know. When Gensets are truly needed in an emergency condition you just don't want to RISK anything!! NEVER FORCE ANYTHING EITHER!! It's possibly that you might have to loosen slightly, and/or totally remove the Float Bowl (usually 2 screws) to see if indeed any gas is getting inside to the Float at all. If gas comes out readily but still no gas is getting into the Main Jet and intake then you purely have a DIRTY CARB issue and nothing more! If you're not smelling gas through the air filter box then you are FUEL STARVED. ALSO - Many a brand new shipped Genset will have some kind of NEW gas tank (usually metal gas tanks only) MICRO DEBRIS inside the tank itself or even in the rubber gas line (I've heard of this problem before, and seen this myself 100's of times with cheaper rubber hoses). That is why an added in-line FUEL FILTER (if your Genset has none) is SO important!! Usually a common $2-3 item at any auto parts store. Once gas is added to the tank all this micro debris is set free to enter into the CARB FLOAT BOWL, and that is where Carb problems will start - even with a "brand new" never run before Genset!!

Posted on Sep 10, 2008

Ajkill
  • 2035 Answers

SOURCE: powermate coleman 5000 gen. with subaru engine

Please click on this link and get the get the owner's manual :

http://www.powermate.com/pdfs/2007/11/12/manual_pc0435003.pdf
.You need a service manual to guide to trouble shoot the problem ,please use this get one service manual:
http://cgi.ebay.com/small-a-c-generator-repair-service-manual-New-sealed_W0QQitemZ300201679371QQihZ020QQcategoryZ46412QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

Good luck...

Posted on Sep 17, 2008

  • 211 Answers

SOURCE: 8 HP Briggs won't run.

Hi First check compression.Turn the switch on OFF position.Remove the sparkplug.Put your thumb at the sparkplug hole and opperate the starter.If the compression preassure blows your thumb off the hole the compression is adequate for the engine to run.In your situation if the generator has good compression there is a fuel delivery problem to find and fix.Check and clean the carb,fuel lines,fuel filter,gas cap tank vent(not to be clogged),check the air filter.If you need any other suggestions feel free to ask.Merry Christmas! regards savumihai71

Posted on Dec 25, 2008

  • 63 Answers

SOURCE: generator hard to start and backfiring

Sound like you've done things in the correct order, tecumseh's are notorious for carb problems if you let as sit in them. Backfiring is timing related (flywheel key) or valve problems. I would take a closer look at the exhaust valve I don't believe it is closing all the way.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

  • 54 Answers

SOURCE: it's 4 yrs old but

After four years the magneto will become demagnetized. Get a small magnet and find the spot on the flywheel where there is some steel which will be slightly magnetic. You can just stick it on there for four days or work it and tap it lightly on the steel for many minutes. Two hours should be enough to get it started and from there it becomes very strong as it revolves past the magneto's steel core. They use to use Strontium alloy to make it keep it's magnetism but they are cheaping out on all steel alloys now. When you can get it to draw in a steel bolt or some other ferrous item so it goes clack against the flywheel, then you have it ready to fire. If it has a compression release, make sure that is all the way over to start, then when it fires bring it back towards you to get full power. I left mine without gas in stroreage for two years and it just barely started. I pushed the plug-in GFCI center buttons a few times and it came to life.

Posted on Apr 10, 2011

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http://royalvacuums.com/ Customer Service 1-800-321-1134
Hours are: 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM (EST)
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Go Ahead. Use Us.

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