Question about Hotpoint HSS25IFMCC / HSS25IFMWW Side by Side Refrigerator

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Refridgerator side not cooling, there is a lot of frost on the coils of the freezer. I have defrosted once, cleaned the evaporator coils and fan, then it just froze up again. What do you think?

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  • Hotpoint Master
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Most likely , the problem is a bad defrost heater , pt # WR51X10055 , but I would still suggest going thru the motions to make sure . The heater runs about $45.00 .
Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10055 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature

Posted on Oct 05, 2010

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  • Master
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The fact that you have already defrosted it before, means that the defrost circuit has failed. The ice build up on the coils is preventing the refrigerator from cooling. Often the heater element fails and needs to be replaced.

Posted on Oct 04, 2010

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1 Answer

Refridgerator side is not cooling and freezer is wroking fine


1st i must get you to look for some symptoms look on back wall (inside) of freezer. Is there "sno-cone" type frost? yes? defrost problem. heater,defrost thermostat or defrost timer or adaptive defrost control. no? is fan running? is evaporator coil cold ,frosty? no fan but cold frosty coil(that's frosty but not frosted up) then bad fan motor probably. you need volt meter,and know how to use it. otherwise call a tek.

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Freezer is not freezing and refridgerator is not cold enough


Hi,

A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.



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I have a Hotpoint HSS25GFPEWW side by side.....initially the ice maker stopped crushing and dispensing ice....then the freezer started to warm. I cleaned the condenser coils and confirmed the condenser...


dead if the compressor is running and theres no cooling or frost on the evaporator you have leaked out all your freon only way to fix is call a pro about 600$ to fix

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1 Answer

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The first thing you want to do is open the freezer and see if the fan inside there is running. The reason is the freezer cools the refrigerator side by circulating air from the freezer. If the fan is running then your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute.

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2 Answers

ED2KVEXVL Whirlpool refridgerator - not cooling in refridgerator


Your freezer is not reaching the target temperature to produce ice - obviously your whole unit is not cooling properly - first thing to do is shut it off unplug it and remove the back panel from the freezer and look for ice buildup and overfrost on the evaporator - this is a classic symptom and will cause cooling problems - manually, using a hair dryer, melt the ice and frost from the evap until everything is cleared up and drips into the drain down the drip pan - once everything is cleared up put back the panel and turn everything on - allow a couple of hours for things to cool up - if it cools normally, then your problem relates to a faulty defrost system in which case you would need to have it serviced and replace one of the defrost timer components (control board, element, etc.)
Set one of these special refrigerator thermostats (not the mercury ones, but I use the round gauges) put one in freezer one in refrigerator and after couple of hours monitor the temps. Freezer should not be warmer than 10F - normally 0F, but optimal temps are -10F (and also if you want hard icecream) -10F allows faster recovery in case of outages. For refrigerator no warmer than 40F - you want optimal to be 34F.

You want to also make sure your evaporator fan motor is spinning and look for any door gasket leaks.

If, after checking your evaporator fan and coils for frost, and door gaskets and you notice your unit is not cooling properly and your compressor is running continuously without cycling off, then next step would be to check the condenser and clean the excess dust (which traps the heat) if your condensers are at the bottom and they are clean, then make sure the condenser fan at the back / bottom of your unit is running.

If all fails, then the last thing (rare) would be a sealed system leak, in which case you will need to get it serviced and it will cost you a lot of money.

If you notice your compressor cycling off before the target cooling temps, then raise your cooing knob at higher temps, if it works then your thermostat is out of calirbation.

If everything cools normally after you've defrosted manually then the problem relates to a defrost problem - in which case you will need to get it serviced and have the control board checked and defrost timer components.

If your freezer is cooling normally and not your refrigerator section, then check for any obstruction of the vents, door gaskets and if you have one, the damper flap not opening wide enough or at all to let cool air in, if applicable to your model.

best of luck.

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1 Answer

Does not get cold


I'm not sure if you mean it's not getting cold enough or dot at all.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. If there is a lot of build up then the defrost timer may need to be replaced.
Most of the time the evaporator coils and fan are located behind panels in the freezer section. These are usually easy to remove. The defrost timer is a different story and may require the help of a service person.
Hope this helps.

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3 Answers

Freezer is working but refrigerator does not cool. I opened the freezer and there was a lot of ice built up, the fan evaporator was working, but seems like the heater wasn't as it was covered with ice.


JCD2292KTB with frost build up in freezer.

Based on your complaint, it soumds like you have a malfunction in the defrost system.

Listed below are some tips provided by, www.repairclinic.com, which can assist you in diagnosing your problem.

This link will describe how a refrigerator works.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_4_3.asp

Here is some diagnostic help!

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

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1 Answer

Whirlpool gold:upper half of refridgerator side not cold


Either the evap fan has a problem, or the defrost system has failed. You should never see frost in the freezer section as the defrost sensor should sense that the coils need to be defrosted before that much frost accumulates.

Unplugging to clean out helped because the frost got a chance to melt away.

If you find the evap motor is running, then the things to check are the defrost sensor, the defrost timer, and the defrost heater.

Reply back if you would like more info.

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4 Answers

Fridgedaire doesn't cool till unplugged


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

if this helps please giv a fixya vote

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