Question about GE WBSE2090A Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hi thanks for the question. i think the problem is with the lid switch . lifting the lid 10 times wont help if the switch is faulty check the lid switch thanks the appliance doc
Posted on Sep 28, 2008
I had the same problem. The machine will do the washing cycle. At the start of the spin cycle it would start turning with a lot of clicking sounds and then would stop spinning. The water pump would continue working without problem. The motor tries to start again in about three minutes, however, repeats the same behavior. I have a reasonable mechanical and electrical knowledge. I was sure that the overload protection switch of the motor was tripping. I opened up my machine---a GE super capacity top loading machine. Took off the belt and turned the transmission pulley. It turned easily in both directions (washing and spinning). Hence, the transmission was good. Next, I checked any water accumulation in the spin tub. If the water is not drained properly before the spin cycle, it would overload the motor. There was no water clogged in the spin tub. Finally, I dismantled the electric motor. There was a clutch assembly underneath the motor pulley. I dismantled it and found the clutch very dirty with some grease that had turned sticky. I cleaned the assembly thoroughly with alcohol and assembled back the machine. The machine is running perfect after that. Conclusion: The clutch assembly was mis-functioning. Reason: When the spin cycle starts, the spin tub is very heavy and cannot achieve the full speed quickly. On the other hand, electric motors must get to their running speed fairly quickly or else overheating of motor would happen. A proper functioning clutch allows the motor to run at their optimal speed while transferring enough torque to the spin tub to slowly speed up the tub to its fullest. In my case, the clutch was sticky, thus overloading the motor which would trip as it overheats.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
I believe you must have one of the bottom of the line cheapo washers, as I do--the one with the plastic, rather than steel wash tub and basket? These are pretty poor machines. They cut corners drastically in every part of the design. I've replaced the aluminum hub that supports the spin basket ( the hub is bare aluminum and corrodes within about 5 years use from the highly alkaline detergent, then it fractures under mechanical stress. Then the motor burned out. I was able to get a nearly new motor on ebay for $90 incl. shipping. (BTW, if you need appliance parts try GOOD Appliance on ebay for new and salvaged parts--they're excellent! 100% feedback rating) However, I now have the same problem--a fairly loud knocking noise during the agitation phases of the cycle. This is cause by a really crappy transmission design that does not wear well. My advice is just ignore it as long as it works and isn't leaking oil and the tub seal is still good. If it does finally go to pieces get one on ebay--that is if you feel up to doing the job yourself since a repair person would charge more than it's worth to install it. I believe new ones can be had on ebay for about $80, some are sold with seal kits. Bottom line is--if you want a machine that will last you for 15-20 years--don't buy a cheapo model. The front loaders are better as they use far less hot water (energy and water savings) but a good one is going to be anywhere from about $800 to $1600.
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
There are four suspension rods that the tub hangs on. When the washer is agitating the tub will rock back and forth and the rods will move back and froth as well. To fix this noise, lift up in each rod and put some lubricant in the cup that the rods fit into at the top of the washer.
Note that it is best if you use a lithium-based lubricant rather than silicone based lubricant.
For more on do-it-yourself appliance repair help visit http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/index.html
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
Testimonial: "shawnryan111, thank you for a great suggestion. That did the trick and the machine runs much more quietly. Thank you for the assistance. Regards, Les"
This is exactly what my machine was doing, as well. I fixed it by cleaning out the filter in front of the water pump.
Searching here, I found that you can remove the lower front panel (three screws along the bottom edge is all it takes) to get to the filter. With the panel removed, you'll see a round white plastic cover (about 3-4 inches diameter) that screws out. Get a bucket under the cover to catch the water that's in it (could be 2 quarts or more) and unscrew the cover.
The cover pulls out, revealing that is actually a screw-in plastic strainer. I found tons of coins, broken pens, paper clips, etc. in mine when I did this. A lot will be deep inside the black rubber hose that connects this filter housing to the washer drum. You can rake the stuff out with a bent wire clothes hanger. Shaking the black hose will help hurry the junk along and out of your machine. Screw the cover back on after the clean out and your machine should go back to normal.
Thinking about it, front loaders will have lots of small items flushed into the pump compared to top loaders. Coins you alway found in the bottom of the drum in a top loader, they all wind up in the filter of a front loader. And once it slow the drainage to a crawl the machine will shut down multiple times when it can't drain the water out completely, and it will never step up to it's max spin speed with all that water still in the drum.
Posted on Nov 30, 2009
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