It can be reglued with Superglue, but be very careful not to use the glue from the tube or you could get it everywhere. First focus the lens on infinity. This is the furthest back or most withdrawn position of the lens. The infinity marking on the ring will be beside the diamond or dot indicator. Put a little bit of Superglue onto the end of a matchstick, and then use the matchstick to put traces of the Superglue on the lens barrel, exactly where the ring will sit. carefully place the ring on its correct position on the lens barrel.
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If the camera is plugged in and installed correctly then you should be able to open up a web cam program like skype, gmail or messenger and test out the camera, as well as adjust the camera's settings.
If the camera lens does not have auto focus, see if you can move the camera lens around in both directions. Some cameras have this for manual focusing. If you cannot access the camera lens then it SHOULD have an auto focus feature.
Also, play around with the camera settings (brightness, focus, zoom, sharpness) to find the best combination of setting for your environment.
Older cameras dont have very good resolutions so don't expect a high quality image or frame rate.
As it isn't really a very special lens, I wouldn't pay for a repair, which is likely to be more than the lens is really worth (you will get back a repaired second-hand lens, which might go bad again). Better to put the money towards a nice mid-range zoom.
Wow, that's weird. Does it do it with the auto-focus switch on the body turned to manual? I shoot a D300 and know pretty much everything about it there is to know and the D700 is basically the same camera with a full frame sensor. The only things I know of that drop CH frame rate are shooting in 16-bit raw and it shouldn't kill it like that, using full-auto with tracking will also cause a lag in auto-focus but that still doesn't seem right here. If it only does it with the auto focus on then it may have trash on the AF screen in the camera and needs to be cleaned. Try setting the body switch to manual focus, remove the grip and shoot jpeg and see if it still happens. If it does, reset the menu settings and try again. If it still does it than you probably need to give it a trip to Nikon. If it quits than start putting things back one at a time until you figure out what is doing it. Somebody told me that Nikon will clean the pro cameras for free once a year while under warranty, I haven't looked into it yet to make sure.
Only reason the lens will not auto focus when you depress the shutter half way is due to either lens AF switch is set to Manual OR camera body's focus system is on M. There is 3 way toggle switch below the synch port around the lens mount. It should be set to C or S in order for auto focus to work. If all the settings are correct and even "AF-ON", next to rear dial doesn't activate auto focus then the issue maybe in the setting or the body itself. As for the buffer reading r27, I think mine displays r## regardless of burst/continuous mode.
The 18-70 is a rather slow lens and needs quite a bit of light before it will focus. Also, the lens needs contrasting between subject and background. For instance, if you try to take a picture of just the blue sky with nothing else in the frame, it will probably not focus at all. Put a plane in there as the subject and you should get the shot.
See if you experience a better focus outside during the day with some good contrast between subject and background. If it works better, then it's just the limitation of the lens. If it's still not focusing, there might be a problem with the lens. You do have the lens on M/A (auto focus) right?
I would take the lens off and then put it back on, being careful to align the registration marks on the lens barrel and the camera. It should click into place quite firmly. If this does not fix the problem, take it back for repair.
There is a bar that transfers the movement of the focusing ring to the motor in the back of the lens. If it jumps out of the plastic slot, you will hear the AF motor turn, but it will never focus in either auto or manual mode. You will have to buy a new lens, get the lens repaired (probably more expensive than buying a kit lens), or partially take the lens apart and re-seat the bar.
Here is a link showing how to fix it: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1022&message=17650836
I did it successfully in about an hour with a set of jeweler's Phillips screwdrivers, tweezers and a strong lamp. You MUST be comfortable delecate parts and tiny screws. Then again, you have nothing to lose if you are going to buy a replacement lens.
This happened to me as well. Fixed it easily, once I balled up and took apart the lens.
bike guy is right on the money. The linkage between the autofocus motor and the lens assembly has popped out.
Luckily, this repair does not require and parts. The linkage just slides back together.
Take apart the lens starting from the back. After removing enough parts you should be able to see down into the lens and at the lens assembly that moves when you zoom. There should also be a ring that, has 5 contacts facing up, and if you move it turn the AF motor.
You should see the linkage coming off this ring and should see where it should sit. If the problem is this linkage (which looks like a bar extending towards the front of the lens), it won't be seated properly. Use a small screwdriver to pop it back in.
This repair requires a bit of handiness, but mostly it's just taking out small screws, being patient, and putting it back together. I'm not going to put instructions, because if you're going to take apart a lens, you should know your way around electronics.