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The bottom bracket is making a knocking sound at a certain point in the crank's rotation?

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More than likely it needs to be rebuilt, new bearings etc. When you ride with cranks loose, this happens.

Posted on Oct 04, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Is it normal to hear a squeak from the number 4 cylinder rod bearing as I manually rotate engine crank? I have the front end and oil pan off.


make sure that the squeak is not from dry rings in the bore
put oil down the cylinder and rotate the crank
if it goes it could be just dry and need no further checks but if it is in a bearing then it is serious and needs replacing
turning a crank should produce a dry scraping noise as the pistons move up and down the bores but certainly not other noise

Nov 10, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

Tip

How to Remove and Replace the Bottom Bracket on an Indoor Cycling Bike


Following is a basic guideline of removing and replacing the bottom bracket on an indoor cycling bike. Due to the different brands of indoor cycling bikes and designs for bottom brackets, the following should only be used as a guideline. If any of the information is not exact to the bike being serviced, refer to the service manual or call Sportsmith for further help.
Common Tools Needed:
Phillips Screw Driver
Set of Allen Wrenches (standard and metric)
Bottom Bracket Tool
Cotterless Crank Puller Tool
9/16" Socket
Ratchet Wrench
Pedal Wrench
Crescent Wrench
You will begin by removing the outside belt/chain guard by using either or both the Phillips screw driver and Allen wrenches. It may be necessary to remove the drive side pedal (using the pedal wrench) in order to completely remove the outside belt/chain guard.
Once the belt/chain guard is removed, you will need to remove the belt/chain. If the unit is belt driven, you can simply "walk" the belt off the pulley by pushing the belt to the outside while turning the crank backwards. **CAUTION: PINCH POINT ** If the unit is chain driven, most use a continuous chain that can be "walked" off the sprocket just like the belt. **CAUTION: PINCH POINT ** Some chains may use a connecting link and can be separated at the connecting link to remove the chain. The connecting link is different in appearance from all other chain links.
Now it is time to remove the crank arms. How to Use a Cotterless Crank Puller Tool
It works best to place the bike upside down for best leverage to remove the bottom bracket. (If placing the bike upside down, ensure proper seat adjustment for best bike balance.) Begin removing the bottom bracket from the drive side of the bike. This side has a reverse thread. You will need to turn right to loosen and remove the bottom bracket. Place the teeth of the bottom bracket tool into the teeth of the bottom bracket cup. Using the ratchet wrench or crescent wrench to turn the bottom bracket tool, you will turn right to loosen and remove the bottom bracket. (If removal of the bottom bracket is difficult, it helps to use a crescent wrench in combination with a bolt threaded into the bottom bracket shaft to hold the tool in place while applying pressure to break the bottom bracket loose.) Remove the bottom bracket from the frame. Remove the bottom bracket cup and/or lock ring from the non-drive side of the bike. This is a standard thread. You will turn left to loosen and remove this bottom bracket cup and/or lock ring.
Install the new bottom bracket from the drive side and tighten flush to the frame. Install the bottom bracket cup and/or lock ring to the non-drive side and tighten.
Re-install the crank arms and pedals. Make sure the crank arm bolts are tightened to the proper torque. If unsure of proper torque specs, refer to the equipment service manual or call Sportsmith.
Re-install the belt/chain onto the pulley/sprocket. If belt/chain was "walked" off the pulley for removal, it can be "walked" onto the pulley/sprocket by placing the belt or chain along the bottom of the pulley/sprocket. Carefully, turn the crank arm forward while lifting on the belt/chain. **CAUTION: PINCH POINT ** Continuing turning the crank forward until the belt/chain is in place.
Re-install the outside chain guard and test the unit. Ride the bike without tension and test with tension. Ensure functionality and feel of the ride. Make any adjustments if necessary


Removing and Replacing Bottom Bracket on Indoor Cycling Bike

on Mar 11, 2015 | Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

What might be causing a Noise and rough pedaling from main crank area of the bike?


Sounds like a bearing issue in the "bottom bracket" or the housing that holds the cranks, in other words. I would remove the crank and inspect the bearings. There are several different types of bearings. If your bike uses sealed bearings, your only option is usually to just replace them. a "caged" bearing consists of several actual ball bearings, set into a round metal cage that holds them in place. If you have caged bearings, remove them clean them thoroughly, and then re-pack them with bearing grease before reinstalling. also be sure to clean the bearing cups, or any surface that they may come into contact with. Any dirt, sand, or grit makes for a quick death for your bearings. Some bikes just use free floating ball bearings set into the bearing cups. If this is the case, smear a blob of grease into the bearing cups. This will hold the ball bearings in place while you install the rest of them. Be careful when re-inserting the crank not to knock any of the ball bearings down into the bottom bracket. From the sounds of your description, you may be missing a ball bearing or two. Check to make sure there are no large spaces between any two ball bearings. If you could fit another ball bearing into the bearing cup without crowding any of the others out, then you are missing a bearing. Re-assemble everything as it came apart. When tightening the crank into the bottom bracket, be cautious not to over tighten. The crank arm shouldn\'t have any "wiggle" from side to side, and yet should still spin freely on its bearings. I sincerely hope this helps.

Aug 14, 2014 | Cycling

1 Answer

Knocking noise only when its a rolling got new tires and front end alinement and the noise is still there.Turn the wheel and hear it good change out bottom ball joints knock still there


Sounds a lot like a pitted wheel bearing. Try jacking up the front of the truck and rotating the wheels by hand while listening closely. Some noise is normal but anything rhythmic points to a bad wheel bearing.

Sep 20, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

Crank set replacement. Trying to replace the crankset due to a stripped crank arm. What crank is compadible to replace it with?


The only guarantee for an exact match width-wise is to use the same make and model of the crank you're replacing. A change in the given bottom bracket and crankset pairing will almost always yield some difference. Bike shops seem to have a way of determining a starting point for it but my own experience with them is that trial and error plays into it. If you change crank brands you may have to also change the length of the BB to get the same effective pedal dimensions.


http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/bottom-brackets

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/crank-service

Sep 15, 2011 | Gary Fisher PreCaliber 24

1 Answer

I have to repair my Schwinn airdyne bicycle. I cannot separate the lever that is on the crank which attaches to what handle. A piece broke off which makes the pedal wobble and I have the replacement gear...


I can only assume you are attempting to remove the crank from the bottom bracket. This sounds like an square taper bottom bracket.
As such you are more than likely going to need a "crank puller" which is a special tool that threads into the large threads in the end of the crank and will allow you to push the crank off the bottom bracket as you tighten the center bolt (on the crank puller tool)
If you have a gearing puller handy you can also make that work with a little fanangaling.

Mar 01, 2011 | Cycling

1 Answer

Getting a clicking sound from the bottom bracket area. I have a Denali Pro. Can I replace the bottom bracket and what size


Yes, of course you can replace the bottom bracket.

First though you will want to make sure that the clicking noise is in-fact coming from the bottom bracket. Even though it sounds like it is coming from that area there are other things that can cause a clicking noise, such as the examples below.

Front derailleur cable end hitting the crank-arm is a common clicking noise.
Pedals can also cause a clicking noise that sounds like its the bottom bracket.
chain rubbing the front derailleur
chain has a kink in it.

The size of your bottom bracket is related to a few factors:
1 - thread pitch (your bike is english)
2 - Bottom bracket width (your bike is 68)
3 - Crank style and brand. This I do not know for your particular bike as you did not provide the year of the bicycle or brand of crank, and they change.

Taking off cranks and removing and installing a bottom bracket requires many bike specialty tools and is probably not the best project if you have never done this before or own the tools. It will be far less expensive to have your local bike shop replace the Bottom Bracket then to do it yourself. Plus they can tell you what size it needs and if the click is even coming from that part or not.

Dec 10, 2010 | Cycling

1 Answer

Cant get the pins out of the crank brackets on the bottom of the crank. got the bolts out but there are pins on each side of the bolts. most engines have two more bolts on the outside edge but this one...


The bottom bracket is the dohickey that connects your two crank-arms together, and secures them within the bottom of the bike frame. The bottom bracket has threads around the outside that secure it into the hole in the frame. Inside, bearings surround a rotating spindle -- this lets the pedals turn free from the frame. Each side of the spindle has a mechanism to connect your crank. This may be square tapered bolts, a toothed ring (splined bottom bracket), or even a threaded bolt. The bottom bracket type must match the crank type (a crank with a square hole must be mounted on a BB with the square receiver).
Bottom brackets also come in different widths, and with different spindle widths: the bracket width should match the frame, and the spindle width should put the cranks out away from the frame, and allow the front derailleur to transfer the chain onto the smallest ring without hitting the bike frame. The BB will usually have its size printed on the cartridge, but you have to take it out to read the numbers. For example, a 68x116 bottom bracket is 58 mm wide as it fits into the frame, and the spindles are 116 mm apart. If you wanted the pedals a bit closer together, you might buy a 68x112.5 BB.
Sealed Bottom Bracket: If your bottom bracket is a sealed cartridge unit (as most are nowadays), it can't be serviced or adjusted. If it grinds, wobbles, or catches, it must be replaced as a unit. Just remove the old cartridge and replace the entire thing.
Take the chain off the chainrings, and lay it on the frame next to the bottom bracket. With the bike clamped in a workstand, shove the base of the crank-arms side-to-side to detect motion in the bottom bracket. Now try to pull the cranks away from, then back towards the bike to detect wobble. Turn the crank and listen for noises within the bottom bracket. These tests will help you identify a damaged bottom bracket.
To replace the bottom bracket, you have to do some major stripping! You must remove both the left crank and the right crank arm plus chainrings. See the crank section for additional information.
PLEASE click on the link directly for more help
http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/bracket.htm
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Apr 02, 2010 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Noise once every revolution


You either have a bad bearing in one of your wheels or in your bottom bracket ( where the crank is connected ) It could also be a pit in the bottom bracket where the bearings ride. If this thump occurs about the same spot on your cranking revolutions I would say it is a pit in that bottom bracket. If it were the bearings themselves that were worn the thump would be more random. The first thing to do would be to remove the chain from the crank. Then crank the pedals using your hands and see if you can feel that thump or vibration with your hands. If you feel it there then replace the bottom bracket or get new bearings. If this does not solve your problem then check the wheel bearings. Just take the wheels off and spin them while holding onto the hubs with your hands. If the wheel bearings are bad you should feel a roughness or vibration while spinning them. Since you described this as a thump I would say problem is not your wheels. They would make more of a clicking sound. Good Luck

Jan 27, 2009 | Cycling

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