Question about Kenmore Freezers

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My freezerwarms up. we shut it off @defrosted it then we turned it back o@it went below freezing . an hour later we checked it @it was back up to 76 degrees. This freefer is a sears model # 106.8265981 .frostfree

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  • clevep Oct 04, 2010

    the fan is running but the compressor doesn't seem to be running i put my hand on it @ it seemscool

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  • Master
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The problem is most likely either the defrost timer, and/or the defrost heater element(s) are faulty. The problem is that the defrost heater elements are not functioning properly and the evaporator core is actually freezing up and blocking the air flow through the evaporator core and also freezing up the thermal sensor, and when that happens there is no longer enough cold air being circulated through the refrigerator (that is actually how the unit operates and air must be able to flow through the evaporator core and then be circulated throughout the refrigerator to properly function) and as a result the refrigerator stops functioning and food can even thaw out in the freezer although the freezer seems to be iced up. (Usually at the rear wall where the evaporator core is located)

(Air flow through the evaporator core and cold air circulation and re-circulation through the refrigerator is performed by the air circulation fan and it also must be functioning)

Be sure to only use a blow dryer (with a towel on the bottom of the freezer) to thaw out the evaporator core and do not use any hard or sharp objects or the evaporator core can be damaged. The defrost timer can be located inside of the refrigerator itself, (see lower image) or it can be mounted outside usually either behind the air intake cowl or kick panel at the front base of the refrigerator, or most likely located behind the service panel on the rear of the refrigerator, and usually if the defrost timer is turning then it is most likely working, however the defrost timer can move very slowly and you can place a mark on the timer and the housing to check after about fifteen minutes to see if the position on the defrost timer has changed. The deforst timer on newer digital models can be built into the circuit board and is not a seperate timer mechanism.

Here are some images that should be similar to your situation to help assist you and the principal is the same for either over-under or side by side refrigerators, and let me know if you require any further assistance.


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Posted on Oct 05, 2010

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  • Kenmore Master
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If the freezer is warm, that tells me that either your condenser fan motor in the back of your refrigerator is not turning or your compressor itself is shot. Pull your refrigerator out from the wall and open your back lower access panel and see if your condenser fan is running and the compressor is running.

If your evaporator fan(freezer fan) is not turning and you hear your refrigerator running, then thats the problem. If you have a volt meter you could test to see if its getting 120 volts at your fan motor. Here is a help link: http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_notcold.html

Hope this helps.

Posted on Oct 04, 2010

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1 Answer

My freezer turns on when plugged in and cools to below zero, then shut off and warm to 37 degrees before turning back on. I just replaced the temperature control thermostat and the defrost thermostat.


Sounds like compressor is overheating and taking hours to restart. check by listening for the hum of the compressor shortly after it has reached temperature. also check the condenser is clean and fan working.

Dec 07, 2015 | Kenmore Freezers

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What can I do? My Woods upright freezer model F17WCE has stopped freezing. It is still cold, but not cold enough freeze.


Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

How do you know you fully defrosted the freezer? You have a defrost timer and heater to do that. Unplugging your unit for a few hours may not be enough.

You need to remove the lower back wall cover. There are several screws holding it on and the rubber molding around it easily pulls out.

Up plug your unit and remove the lower back cover.

1.) Frozen Drain - Your unit goes through a defrost cycle every 8-10 hours. During the time your freezer shuts down for 20-30 minutes except for your light. If you have a frozen drain, the condensate builds up behind the lower back wall until the cooling(evaporator) coils become plugged up and you do not get any air flow. You may even have a solid block of ice.
Repair: Using a hair dryer (DO NOT Use Metal Objects. You may damage the coils.) slowly defrost the coils. This will take 2-3 hours.

2.) Cooling (Evaporator) Fan Failure - Assume the coils are not iced up. Is your evaporator fan running?


25386473-x2invnbvdad3ve0pcsobo2og-2-0.jpg
Part #: 3-60336-001 Cost: $115.00
Check it out: With a multi-meter set to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). Is the motor humming, Then it is bad and needs to get replaced.
Unplug the unit. Disconnect the motor. Put one meter lead in one connector socket and the other lead in the other motor sock. You should get a reading of "0" Ohms if the motor is good. Anything else the motor is bad and need to be replaced.

3.) Defrost Timer - Pull your unit out to access the lower back. With your unit plugged in, take a small flat head screw driver, insert it into the slot on the time. Turning clockwise one turn at a time, until the freezer shuts off. If you have turned one full cycle, then you have a bad timer.
Ok. The unit shut down except for the light. Observe the metal bar below your cooling coil. Is it hot? If not then you may have a bad defrost heater. Lets check it out - Unplug your unit. Once again with your multi-meter set on the lowest Ohms, disconnect each ends of the wire connectors. Be careful not to touch the fins on the cooling coil. They are razor sharp. The connector are hard to pull apart. Put one meter lead in one connector and the other meter lead into the other connector. If you do not get a Ohm reading between 50-250, then you have a bad defrost heater.
25386473-x2invnbvdad3ve0pcsobo2og-2-2.jpg
Substitution: 3-80405-003 Cost: $56.00
This is a glass tube with a spring in it. If it is burner or the spring is broken then you have a bad defrost heater.

4.) Refrigerant Leak or Obstruction - With the unit plugged in. Lay the lover cover the cooling coils. Close the door and wait 30 minutes. Remove the cover. Do all of the coils have a nice frost pattern? Is there a block of ice in the upper right hand corner of the cooling coil. If so you either have a refrigerant leak or an obstruction. In this case the repair will cost you $450.00-$500.00.

5.) If all of the above is good, then you may have a Bi-mel problem. In the upper right hand corner of your cooling coil there is a thermostat. This controls the temperature and compressor start-up. This may explode in the back. Check to see if it is intacted.

5.) Bad thermostat - These can not be checked for failure. If you have check all of the above this may be your problem.
25386473-x2invnbvdad3ve0pcsobo2og-2-5.jpg Substitution: 4-83053-003 Cost: $68.00

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1 Answer

Ice has accumulated at the bottom, food at top is slowly defrosting


I believe that the defrost system has malfunctioned. There is a timer that cycles the automatic defrost. The timer shuts off the freezer and turns on a heating element. Then it will cycle back to freezing. If anything goes out in this system the unit will not defrost. over time the cooling fins and below will fill up with ice and the fan can no longer recirculate air so the bottom becomes ice and the top warms up...

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1 Answer

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2 Answers

Freeezer is only freezing around 26 degrees


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Sanyo Frost Free Fridge (Model SR 1031) very slow to cycle through freeze to defrost back to freeze cycle. The temp in Freezer compartment goes from -17 degrees to -1 degree then back to -17 as it takes in...


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1 Answer

My freezer will freeze for about 2weeks then it starts to get warm when I turn it off for about 6hrs it will refreeze


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