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I recently bought WA15PG Samsung Washing Machine. The problem is that each time it finish its course of action (i.e. washing), it dries the clothes and take water and do the next process of washing. This repeated drying is causing the clothes to wrinkle a lot which in turn is (1) difficult to press (2) the quality of clothes is deteriorating.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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gittos73
  • 244 Answers

SOURCE: machine is locked

to open your door make sure all the water is out of your drum if not get the outlet hose and place on the floor into a bucket if water comes out than your pump is either blocked/faulty

Posted on Aug 12, 2007

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FitzOriginal
  • 842 Answers

SOURCE: Servis Washing machine clothes wet

I don't know the specific machine, but this is a fairly generic problem, so I hope the following helps: The empty pump cycle is a timed operation, the fact that there is still water in the drum after the time allowed for the pump to drain it has run out means that the water isn't clearing out fast enough.

In order of probability, the problem is usually caused by:
1. A blocked filter
2. An obstruction in the empty pipe or drain
3. A Faulty pump

1 Blocked Filter: Many machines have a small door in the bottom of the chassis. Behind this door (Usually about 5 inches square) is a filter, which will usually unscrew. In this filter you will find fluff, string, coins, the odd small sock and all sorts of nasty stuff if you haven't had the filter out before. If the filter is blocked then the pump is having to draw water through all that gunk and it will run out of time and leave water in the drum. Clean the filter in the sink, pocket the coins you find and make a note to clean it regularly in the future Most manufactures will suggest you check it every 2 months or so, depends how often you are using the machine of course.
Unfortunately, other machines do not have filters so easily accessible. If there is no door or obvious access to the filter, some manufacturers put a trap in the rubber hose that feeds the pump. The pain here is that the access to these traps is gained by dragging the bachine out of its place under the work surface and tipping it on to its back. Track the waste pipe back to locate the pump. On the other side of the pump will be a thicker (usually black rubber) pipe and built into this pipe is usually a little bucket that stuff can fall into before it gets to the pump. You can usually squeeze the pipe and feel if there is stuff in it. If there is, then depending on the machine again, some of these traps will have a plug in the bottom that is held in place by a spring clip (Pliers to compress the spring to get it off) or a screw clip (Unscrew with a screwdriver). Enev if there is no trap as such, squeeze the rubber delivery pipe and feel for obstructions (Often a sock!), if necessary, disconnect the pipe from the pump to gain access to the blockage. WARNING!: Never tip the machine all the way onto its back, you may cause a water leak inside the machine. ALWAYS tip BACKWARDS, to the control panel for the machine is pointing up to avoid water getting to the control panel. I would recommend butting a chair behind the machine as you tip it, so the top back of the machine comes to rest on the seat and the machine is at about 45 degrees. this will give you access to underneath without a leak and make is a lot easier to tip it back on to its feet again afterwards.
2. An obstruction in the empty pipe or drain: Start at the point that the pipe enters the household drain pipe, pull out the empty pipe and check that water will flow freely into the drain (Stuffing the garden hose down there and turning it on (but not TOO FAST) will usually demonstrate if there is a blockage. If this is free, check the pipe that runs from the pump to the drain (This will need the machine tipping as described above, and possibly the pipe removing from the pump to check it.
3. A Faulty Pump:If you have done everything described so far, then you have checked for obstructions in the pipe leading to the pump, the pipe leading away and you have cleaned out any filters or traps... If you still have a problem, you have a faulty pump. This is highly unlikely. These pumps have induction motors (no brushes to fail) and in my experience, they either work, or they don't. They very seldom "work a bit". If SOME water is being pumped (check by putting the empty hose in the sink and watching) then you really need to double check your work before replacing the pump. Good news is, if you do have to they are usually reasonably priced.

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

  • 236 Answers

SOURCE: My washing machine won't spin!

as with basic spin faults -a number of reasons usually 1 motor brushes, 2 motor 3 motor control pcb or the obvious one - the belt has come off.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

  • 714 Answers

SOURCE: My washing machine does not spin dry the clothes

The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve

Posted on Jan 17, 2010

livewire874
  • 618 Answers

SOURCE: WHY MY MACHINE HAS STOP WRING MY CLOTHING DRY, AND

Check and see if the lid switch is working . Should hear a click sound as you open and close the lid.

Posted on Oct 16, 2010

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