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Front forks loose - Cycling

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Without more info, I can't tell if you mean you have a loose head-set (that's the vertical tube that holds the bearings that turn when you steer), or if you have a mountain bike with springy front forks and the springy part is loose. If it's the springy part, you'll probably have to replace the whole front fork. If's it just a loose headset, you can tighten it pretty easily. Look at the top of the headset while you turn the handlebars back and forth (as if steering). Looking at the top of the headset you will see (from bottom to top) a knurled ring, a washer, and a large nut. The nut is a lock-not which is isolated from the knurled ring by the washer. The washer has a tab on the inside that prevents it from rotating. Tighten up the knurled ring by hand (you might have to lift up on the handlebars a bit to take the pressure off of it). Don't over-tighten the knurled ring or you won't be able to steer. Then tighten the lock nut with a wrench. Good luck

Posted on Oct 04, 2010

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How do I refill my fork tubes with fork oil


Begin by loosening the upper triple-clamp pinch bolts and breaking the fork caps loose while the fork is still held by the lower triple clamp. You will need to remove the caps to refill the fork tubes with oil.
Determine if the fork legs have oil drain plugs near the bottom of the legs. If they do, you are in luck and will be able to change the oil without removing the fork legs. Put old newspapers on the floor under the front end. Place a drain pan under the fork legs and remove the drain plugs, one side at a time. Hold the front brake and push down on the fork several times to pump the oil out. When oil stops coming out, reinstall the plugs using new sealing washers.
Without Drain Plugs
If there are no drain plugs (look carefully), you'll need to remove the fork legs to drain the oil. At this point you can decide to have it done professionally or do the work yourself. We'll cover the main, basic steps. Refer to a shop manual to learn all the exact procedures involved. Some motorcycles may require fairings, handlebars, etc. to be removed.
Support the motorcycle either on the centerstand (if equipped) or by using a motorcycle jack under the engine. If you use the centerstand, you may need to place a sandbag on the rear of the seat, hold the front end up using straps from the rafters, or support the bike underneath the engine. Use tie-downs to steady the bike on the jack. Grasp the lower fork legs and try to push and pull the fork toward the back of the bike and forward to check for loose steering head bearings. Inspect the pleated rubber fork boots, if equipped. Check for signs of fork oil leakage and any grooves in the fork tube wear surfaces where the seals make contact. Also check for looseness between the fork legs and tubes that would indicate bushing wear.
Remove the front wheel and axle assembly. Support and tie the brake caliper(s) out of the way. Remove the front fender and speedometer cable, if equipped. With the fork leg fully extended, remove the top cap from a leg. Be prepared as there may be some spring pressure pushing against the cap.
Loosen and remove the pinch bolt from the lower triple clamp and lower the fork leg. Note any shims or washers and spring. Turn the leg upside down in a drain pan until oil stops flowing out. You may have to move the damping rod in and out to get the oil out. Repeat the procedure for the other side.
Reinstall the fork legs and other removed components in the reverse order of removal.
All Models
Add the exact amount and type of oil recommended by the manufacturer. Some motorcycles call for the use of a dipstick to determine how much oil to use instead of just pouring a certain amount of oil back in. Follow the manufacturer's shop manual recommendations.
Carefully install the threaded top caps by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten the pinch bolts and top caps to the factory-specified torques. After the brakes are installed, pump up the lever until the brakes feel normal again. Once the bike is assembled and on the floor, push down on the front end to verify the suspension's response. Turn the steering from its left to right limits to ensure nothing is binding, and check all controls including the throttle for proper operation.

Mar 05, 2016 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Front wheel


If you haven't got it done already, maybe this is the solution.
Newer bicycles have a device to prevent the front wheel coming off so you will not wreck the bike if the bolts get loose. This is a washer type thing that has an ear on it. The ear fits into a hole in the fork. You can take the bolts completely off the shaft and the wheel will stay attached to the fork by those ears on those washers that are in the tiny holes in the fork.
Be blessed.

Aug 11, 2013 | Rockshox Rock Shox Argyle 302 Mountain...

1 Answer

Keep having leaking fork seals.have replaced seals and oil after every ride lately.(4)have tried two brands of seals last time disasembled whole of forks cleaned every part,shims everything and had...


G'day. A couple of suggestions-
Damage to the fork slider-chips or dings.
Too much oil in the fork on re-assembly can cause the seal to go.
Worn or loose fork bushes will flog the seal prematurely.
When you transport the bike-if you don't use a seal saver can pop the seals.

So let me help with these.

Be sure that the fork slider is not scored,dinged or damaged on th surface.

A good double check of the oil quantity is to ensure that when you have re-filled the tube with oil & primed it(worked the air out of it), the oil level should be 100 to 110 mm from the top of the leg to the oil with the fork fully compressed. If the level is less than this-drop it to 100mm.

To check the fork bushes-try pull on the front forks front to back(wobble) & feel for looseness in the bushes.

And finally-When you transport the bike-put a chock(I use an empty 5ltr oil container-but you can buy propper chocks from the bike shop) in-between the forks at top of the front wheel .
Now when you pull the front end down it will stop on the chock & stop the front forks being under excessive compression for extended periods-so it saves the fork springs from sacking out too.
I hope this proves helpfull.
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli

May 20, 2011 | Sherco 5.1i Motorcycles

1 Answer

Specialised rockhopper bike. Loose front forks onto frame. How to tighten. When front brake applied, whole front fork moves 1-2 inches...


I believe this bike has a sealed cartridge bearing and cannot be tightened. a replacement should probably be bought.
Hope this helps.

Apr 05, 2011 | Cycling

1 Answer

How do I put front wheel on without making the forks lock up it keeps doing that when I put it on my02 cr250


Putting uneven loading on the forks(twist) may cause binding and harsh action but I haven't heard of them locking up. Try the following order of installation. position the wheel and slide in the axel. Tighten the axel, leaving the pinch nuts loose. Spin the tire and stop it a few times using the front brake. Tighten the pinch nuts. Put bike on the ground and see if forks still bind. If they do then loosen the pinch bolts, lock the front brake and try to compress the forks. This should align the forks. Tighten the pinch bolts. Check forks again. If you still have problems someting is wrong like bent fork tube or slider, misaligned triple clamp, maybe a bent axel.You might take off the fork tubes and push on them seperately to make sure they feel ok. Then do the install checking the forks at each step to find the place where binding starts. Good luck.

Feb 20, 2011 | 2002 Honda CR 250 R

1 Answer

If feels like a pogo stick sometimes and also wants the front end to wash out too and on the front forks i have a oil leak


Your front fork seal are bad and need to be replaced.
When you loose fork oil, your loosing suspension dampening and only riding on the springs.(POGO)

Replace both front fork seals and dust caps, and put same amount of fork fluid in both forks.

I bought my seals and caps for $30 on ebay, and then took my forks off my bike and took them to a shop and they charged me $75 to do the job.

You can take them the whole bike and they will charge $100 - $150 including parts to do the job.

Dec 12, 2010 | Yamaha YZ 250 Motorcycles

1 Answer

My triple tree bearings nuts are not loose nor are my fork tube clamps. but i still feel like the fron wheel is tracking side to side. do you know what i mean? oh ya checked front axle its tight too.


are the forks leaking oil? is there air pressure in the forks? Start by draining the forks and putting in the correct ammount of the proper oil, and getting the air pressure right then see how she rides. Other things to check, front wheel bearings, worn triple tree bearings.

Mar 12, 2010 | 2000 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

When turning right at speeds of 60 + my bike feels as if it wobbles could this be a front wheel bearing about to go


it could be a lot of things loose wheel bearings loose spokes loose fork nut or worn fork bearings, wheel could be out of round.

Mar 11, 2010 | 2002 BMW F 650 GS

1 Answer

530 exc spacing between front fork & spacer


front axle installation: looking at the front of the bike:

slide the wheel into position and insert the axle from the left. with axle now through the right hand fork, install nut and tighten the left fork pinch bolts to secure the axle for tightening the nut. tighten the nut to 29.5 ftlbs. and loosen the left pinch bolts. now tighten the right pinch bolts and compress the front suspension while the left (from front) is still loose. now allow suspension to rest naturally and tighten all 4 pinch bolts to 11 ftlbs.
your done.......the axle is tighten against the rotor side and the other fork is then tighten in it's natural position so as not to cause premature seal and bushing failure and increasing stiction.

Sep 27, 2009 | 2008 KTM 530 EXC-R

1 Answer

Can you straighten torqued front forks on a 2002 Yamaha TTR 125 L


you should be able to saporrt bike so front wheel is off the ground   then take a marker and put lines around where the forks meet the triple trees that hold them in place their should be some allen head bolts that u can loosen on front of the triple clamps  once these are loose you should be able  to move the forks back to strait again in line with the handle bars just line the lines up that u put on them earlier and tighten the allen bolts back up    also  when making the lines  make them from left  to right so marker is touching both fork tube and triple clamp   this is only so you get can keep them the same ride hight as before 

Feb 15, 2009 | 2002 Yamaha TT-R 125 L

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