Question about Kitchen Ranges
A couple years ago, I was boiling a pan of water (on an eye closest to the control panel) and forgot about it (the pan boiled dry). I then received an error message on the display, which read "F7 57". Now, anytime the oven is in operation for too long, the same error message will display and it will shut off. It's kind of like the oven has overheated or something. The stovetop will still function, but the oven will not work again until it has cooled down. I can blow a small, desktop fan on the control panel and it seems to prolong the use of the oven somewhat, which is weird.
Do I need to replace the control panel? GE/GE repairman WILL NOT HELP AT ALL!!
Shut the breaker off! These are the exact symptoms that a tenant of ours reported for their range. I went to check the range and found that one of the power wires on the terminal block in the back of the range was burning itself up. It had actually started a small wire fire. You need to pull the range out of it's hole and unplug it. Remove the panel in the back above where the cable goes into the range. Examine the power wires and terminal block carefully, because I bet you'll find one of the wires is burning up and needs to be repaired. Please write back and let know what you find.
Posted on Aug 09, 2007
The one thing I don't suggest is using the Ceramabryte product the dealer left with us. It leaves a greasy film. When I get ready to clean my black GE Profile, I pull off the controls to wash separately. Then I lift off the grates, take a single-edge razor blade to scrape anything stuck on (it doesn't scratch), then I use baking soda and scrub and scrub with lots of paper towels. Then I start cleaning off the baking soda with lots and lots more paper towels. There is still a film, but at least it's not greasy. At this point I grab some more dry paper towels, pour on a 3' puddle of rubbing alcohol and wipe it all over the stove top and front. You may have to do this twice. Then, if I don't turn on the hood light's brightest setting, it really doesn't look too bad. I have to do this at least once a week, as I have never had a stove that got so dirty so fast and was such a pain to clean.
FYI, I would never buy another of these stoves. Besides the cleaning issue, there is the fact of having to replace the igniter (glow plug?) twice in the first four years. My old, bottom-of-the line Magic Chef went 25 years with the first replacement not coming until it was about 15 years old. Also, the broiler is unimpressive and steaks, etc., just sort of steam. Can't get a really good crust going. It's a slide-in and the top is very narrow, front to back, because of the slanted control panel on the front, and so you really can't put two large pots or pans on one side. Let's see....oh yes, I ordered the unglazed grates for safety reasons and it came with the procelain glaze. Those were replaced free of charge, though I had to go pick them up. Then the first set of unglazed grates began to rust about six months into use, so had to be replaced (again, no charge at least). Recently I noticed that the inside walls of the oven, where the racks slide, are starting to rust. Finally, the burners are difficult to calibrate, which I really notice when I try to cook rice, which comes out right about 50% of the time.
Now, on top of all this, I have to worry about the glass door exploding?!?! Should I ban my grandchildren from the kitchen? Has anyone from Consumer Reports seen this website?
Posted on Apr 03, 2008
F7 is a stuck key. Usually you can't get a key unstuck. Best thing to do is replace the keypad / user interface. Here are some of GE's error codes:
Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes Failure
Code Condition Check/Repair F0 and F1 Failed Thermistor Control Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F2 Oven temp exceeds 590 w/ unlocked door High resistance or interference in oven temperature sensor. Replace oven temperature sensor F3 Open oven temperature sensor circuit Replace oven temperature sensor F4 Shorted wire (Oven temperature sensor) Locate and correct F7 A = Function pad button stuck or
B = Bad clock Unstick button or
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F8 Component Failure Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F9 Program w/ door circuit Check wiring
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
We've seen similar problems due to an intermittent failure in the control board. If you can have it removed we can likely repair it for you.
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
Testimonial: "Prompt response and likely the solution although I have not experienced the problem again. "
Check your breakers to the oven. It sounds like one of the two of them have tripped and you are only getting 120 VAC.
Do you have a volt-ohm meter, and know how to use it?
Posted on Dec 18, 2009
Testimonial: "good thinking! now where are breakers? need to pull out stove?"
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