Question about Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603 Built-in Dishwasher

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Fisher & Paykal DD6031 Integrated We have a

Fisher & Paykal DD6031 Integrated We have a double drawer integrated dish washer and the top drawer appears to have partly completed the wash then stopped with some water remaining on the bottom of the drawer. The drawer itself is hard to pull open and I am not sure if the nephews opened up the drawer during the wash cycle. The bottom drawer still has power and works while we are unable to bring up any of the functions on the top drawer. I have turned the power on & off at the wall and no change. Do you have any solutions

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  • davelark308 Oct 05, 2010

    Yes it is the Integrated model with the three switches on the upper right front with the middle switch larger than the other two switches while when open there is selections of Heavy, Normal, Fast Delicate, Rinse plus Eco found at the top right.

    The top drawer can be pulled open but is very stiff but there is no sound or lights on the buttons. The botttom drawer works fine.

  • davelark308 Oct 06, 2010

    Thanx for the prompt reply and yes I am always keen to repair myself where possible therefore some guidance and instruction would be great.

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The fault you have described with the top drawer appears to be related to the lid seal becoming dislodged. However, I am slightly unclear if you can actually open the drawer or not. YOu mention it is hard to pull but you also say you see water at the bottom of the drawer. So I am assuming you are able to open the drawer. This is important otherwise it will become hard to check the problem.
It might help confirm if the lid seal is the problem if you can check which lights are on at the top of the drawer lid. For example NORMAL and RINSE. I am assuming since you have an integrated model there is no LCD display in the front.

If it is a lid seal problem then you may have to call the technician from Fisher and Paykel. It does involve a little patience and mechanical prowess to fix it. There is fiddling with motors etc involved.

You can check the parts out at this site.

Posted on Oct 04, 2010

  • 1 more comment 
  • Sam Oct 05, 2010

    If none of the lights on the top drawer are on and it is not responding to the switches then the controller has lost power. This in turn has caused the lid seal motors to freeze and hence the reason why the drawer movement is stiff.



    Controller power is lost if the thermal fuse located in the heater assembly is blown. This is a safety mechanism to protect the dishwasher if the temperature goes too high. Sometimes it can also mean the thermostat became faulty causing the heater to overheat.



    In order to restore the controller power the heater assembly needs to be replaced as the thermal fuse is integral to it. This part looks like this.

    Once the power is restored to the controller then it will pull the lid motors back unless these are out of position which means the seal has to be opened and the motors repositioned.



    Let me know if you want to fix this yourself or call the technician. I can give you some idea of how to access the heater assembly etc but it is not a trivial task to replace. The drawer is very compact and requires a fair bit of effort and patience to repair.

  • Sam Oct 06, 2010

    I can only give you rough guidance as it is very diffcult to visualise words through this media. Also might be slightly different for the integrated model considering it will be harder to detach from panels.

    Turn the power off, unplug power and water connections. Remove all items from inside the drawer inclding the filter plate and the impulse rotor.



    1. get the top drawer out from the housing - remove the plastic pins on each side of the drawer to get the front cover out. Keep a stool next to the dishwasher and slide out the drawer use the stool as support. Retract the side rails to ease the drawer out from the slide rails and rest on the stool.



    2. Unhook the hose support at the back to ease the drawer out further. You will need to get to the base of the drawer to access the heater plate under the wiring cover.



    3. Carefully release the four wiring cover clips from the front lower section of the drawer taking care not to damage them. Release the three clips on the underside of the drawer which retain the wiring cover. Disconnect the fill hose from the dispenser (water may drip).

    Disconnect the chassis harness plug from the electronic controller. Disconnect the heater element harness plug and earth wire from the element plate. Unclip the drain hose cuff from the motor assembly taking care not to misplace the non-return flap valve. Unclip the drain hose, fill hose and the wiring loom from the under side of the drawer.



    4. Unplug the motor wiring harness from the electronic

    controller. While lifting the tab on the locking ring at the base, rotate

    the ring anti-clockwise until it comes free of drawer tabs. Take care not to damage any motor wiring as the locking ring is turned This also releases the motor housing from the locking

    ring. Holding the pump housing on the motor assembly lift the

    locking ring, heating plate and motor clear of the drawer tub. The suction pipe of the drain molding will slide out of the tub drain area.



    5. You may now lift the locking ring clear of the motor

    assembly. This will allow the heater plate and motor assembly to come apart. Be careful of the two large 'O' rings which seal between the motor assembly and heater plate and the heater plate and tub, these and the tub sealing area must be clean and put in the correct place before

    reassembly takes place. Check both the drain cuff 'O' ring and suction pipe 'O'

    ring for deformation and damage. Lubricate and if necessary replace 'O' rings before reassembly.



    6. Replace the heater assembly with new one and follow reverse order of fixing everything back in.



    This is the best instructions I can provide. YOu can always use the bottom drawer as reference if you muck up the reassembly. But I would suggest not to disassemble the bottom drawer as it still gives you full functionality.

    Disconnect the chassis harness plug from the electronic controller. Disconnect the heater element harness plug and earth wire from the element plate. Unclip the drain hose cuff from the motor assembly taking care not to misplace the non-return flap valve. Unclip the drain hose, fill hose and the wiring loom from the under side of the drawer.


    4. Unplug the motor wiring harness from the electronic

    controller. While lifting the tab on the locking ring at the base, rotate

    the ring anti-clockwise until it comes free of drawer tabs. Take care not to damage any motor wiring as the locking ring is turned This also releases the motor housing from the locking

    ring. Holding the pump housing on the motor assembly lift the

    locking ring, heating plate and motor clear of the drawer tub. The suction pipe of the drain molding will slide out of the tub drain area.


    5. You may now lift the locking ring clear of the motor

    assembly. This will allow the heater plate and motor assembly to come apart. Be careful of the two large 'O' rings which seal between the motor assembly and heater plate and the heater plate and tub, these and the tub sealing area must be clean and put in the correct place before

    reassembly takes place. Check both the drain cuff 'O' ring and suction pipe 'O'

    ring for deformation and damage. Lubricate and if necessary replace 'O' rings before reassembly.


    6. Replace the heater assembly with new one and follow reverse order of fixing everything back in.


    This is the best instructions I can provide. YOu can always use the bottom drawer as reference if you muck up the reassembly. But I would suggest not to disassemble the bottom drawer as it still gives you full functionality.

  • Sam Oct 07, 2010

    Please do post a comment or a testimonial if you find the instructions useful. Thx,

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