Question about Refrigerators
To change the light bulb, you need to unhook the bulbous plastic cover at the top back of the fridge. You'll notice it has two oval holes on the sides. On both the left and right, place your fingers on the vertical strips of the cover directly behind these oval holes, and press inward to release the catch. At the same time, pull down and the back of the cover will swing down, revealing the light bulb.
Posted on Jun 04, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes, but with a 25 watt bulb its only radiating heat while the door is open and its not that much..as far a lens cover goes. i found no info on that either..
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
Use a refrigerator rated bulb. If you go to a Harry's Homeower store look in the bulb section or in the appliance section take to old bulb with you to compare.
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
SOURCE: hoover contour fridge leaking
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use
and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater
comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost
drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the
freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
Posted on Aug 30, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks, all fixed!!"
SOURCE: lights stay on in fridge
HI. The door switch will be the culprit here.
The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, are controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
Posted on Dec 11, 2009
I am on my fourth timer for this problem. Seems to fix the problem each time. You must remove the big chunk of ice covering the drain hole before you operate the fridge with the new timer. The contacts in the timer get burnt due to arcing inside the switch. The heating element seems to always work ok, but if the element is no good the fridge will not defrost.
Posted on May 11, 2010
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