Re: Zone B of Sony amplifer seems to have stopped sending...
Hi, please have a look at your supply. The voltage might have gone below 21V on your newer models and 42V on your older models. This you will find near the pre-amp. Look for 2 big Cap's and start from there.
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It is important to confirm if the amplification fault is with the amplifier or it is with a weak signal. So it is important to check your source with another amplifier or if you are using FM and still experience the fault then check if the ATTENUATION switch is activated which can reduce the main volume. Also check the speaker individually with a AA battery to get a good response.
If so there is fault in the pre- amp section Please test the other inputs available on the amplifier. Also if you are using the preamp out check the cords or the Input signal must be applied to all the source to confirm. This can also be a failure of the A/D input selector.
Take consensus as there are high density boards and will require help with jig to check the boards.
I am a service engineer and have serviced a few of these units, you can
send it back to speakercraft direct but they will charge you an arm and a
leg for it, they are very 'cloak and dagger' about supplying parts and service info to anyone else including dealers.
I must say from the outset that these units are not a straight forward amp like some of
the posting are suggesting... any professional engineer will not be able
to diagnose a problem for a written symptom.
these systems require a programmer via a software driven interface to set them up which only a dealer
will have. so in some cases a re program can solve the issues.
The amp's (6xstereo modules) are very low powered at about 5w per
channel so they are a common problem and each one cost's about
£100.+VAT and then labour cost's, but they are loaded with a very
complex matrix system for looping video and audio plus the CAT5e
localised Keypad's... these are £5K systems when new, but you probably know that.
One way for you to get an better idea of were the problem might lie is to find a pair of powered speakers like PC speakers and connect them to the 'Pre-Out' connections on the rear of the unit located directly above the EZ-PAD connection on the rear.
You should be able to hear audio out of these outputs (one for each zone) and depending on the zone you connect to you will hear the corresponding audio that is selected in that area on the keypad.
if you do hear audio from each zone but not from the speaker outputs then it could be a number of problems probably caused by one or more of the AMP modules failing (which is common).
If you power up the amp with it connected and don't pass any audio through it, put your ear right up to the speakers in each zone and you should hear a VERY faint hissing coming from the speakers (which is good). Which ever zones are not emitting that hissing correspond to the amp modules that are faulty.
If you can't get any audio from the pre-out's on each zone on the rear of the MZC66 then it could simply need a re-program.
sometimes when a amp module blows it takes out another board and they are expensive.
This won't fix the problem but may go some way to helping you get a better idea of the problem if you haven't already.
There is a defect in the final amplification stage of the receiver. This may have been caused by a short in the speaker wires. The typical defective parts are the output transistors. Expect a parts cost in the $40 range for this repair. Any audio service shop should be able to repair this.
I had the same questions and still can't believe there isn't more information on the topic. It's crazy how much marketing Denon devotes to their Multi-Zone features yet offers very little reference materials on the actual set up. I guess most customers don't use the fearture? Here you go:
-The Multi-Zone on the Denon 4802 is analog only. If you are running digital coax or fiber you will have to run a second line that's analog (eg RCA red/white) from the source to the Denon in order for the signal to to make it to the Zone 2 speakers (regardless if it's Pre-Amp out or direct connect to the Zone 2 speakers from the multi/SB speaker outs. Regarding the Harmony question, I had the same problem with my Harmony 880 and wasn't able to find an answer after multiple searches. Luckily I figured it out when I deleted the receiver from the Logitec device list and started over. Connect the remote to your computer, launch the Logitec Harmony Remote Software, click the Devices tab, hit the Add Device, pick the device type & manufacturer from the drop down list, enter "AVR-4802" under Model and finally hit the Next button in the lower right corner of the UI. The next page solves the Harmony Zone 2 control problem. You will see a message "To use your device in additional zones/rooms, click the checkbox...." Make sure Room 2 is checked (mine was not), update the remote and you're done. The Harmony Device menu you will now contain a second receiver icon called "receiver 2." Hit "device" on the Harmony, choose "receiver 2" and you will gain control over Zone 2 including volume.
check your speakers cables for good condition-no touching between inner wires of each other- after you confirm from good cables condition- try the speakers one by one-make good ventilation around the amp and clean it with air blower-after that if the problem still found contact near service center for help.
The Sonamp 275 has Signal LEDs on the front panel, above the Volume pots. If signal is present at the RCA inputs, the Signal LEDs will be blinking.
Most likely, there isn't any line level audio signal coming from the receiver. Hook RCAs to Tape Output or MD output and check system using the Tuner which is an analog signal.